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nILS

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Everything posted by nILS

  1. Before you do what you're about to do (which is good) put the following step: - Carefully remove the ICs (PIC, SIDs and Banksticks) to prevent (further) damage - Desolder the shunts and use proper jumpers and undo any other mods you might have done to it.
  2. bored @ Singapore Airport. Waiting for my flight back to the fatherland :-)

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. kristal=

      kristal=

      Back so soon? Enjoy your last summerday, constantly cold here in D-Land.

    3. Hawkeye

      Hawkeye

      have a look at the in-airport living butterfly exhibition - beautiful :)

    4. technobreath

      technobreath

      have a good trip home nils! :)

  3. is heading out to AUS for vacation nao. See you guys in February :D Yes, that's right. February.

    1. Show previous comments  5 more
    2. jojjelito

      jojjelito

      Orsome! Enjoy the great southern land :)

    3. Shuriken

      Shuriken

      Don't forget to post the pics from the jam session with Wilba ;)

    4. JRock

      JRock

      Have a fun! Don't do anything I wouldn't do ;)

  4. TLDR. By the way, what's up with all the line feeds?
  5. I'd still suggest putting it on ther, because you never know it you're gonna extend it some day. Quoting SmashTV: "Funny, how a two cent part's got you chasing your tail now, right? ;)"
  6. Don't underestimate the people that are actually interested in these things. Seduction is done via the price tag. The rest is just another small ARM10/9/8/7 board. Look at the beaglebone for instance. A lot more expensive, pretty similar, shitty website, no doco - sold out everywhere. instantly.
  7. Speechless. Obviously the free support by the creators of the sammichSID isn't good enough anymore :rolleyes:
  8. Eagle? If so, you can't, as obviously it'll screw up your wiring with components that are not SIL or 2 pins. If you want to just keep the wiring (even though it'll be pretty screwed), just select the component and flip the layer, then group all the traces that got moved to the top layer and do "change layer bottom" (or "ch lay top" respectively) on that group. That gets rid of the wires on the wrong layer and also removes the vias.
  9. nILS

    thanks

    Awww, matched pairs :thumbsup:
  10. Would help, but isn't required. You understand what 984 means, and that it's bigger than 934 cause you know that an "8" is bigger than a "3". The same principle applies to hex. Just that it's not just 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 but 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,a,b,c,d,e,f :-)
  11. That'll set the gm5 into midibox.org configuration with 5 IOs. All good. The MIDI In works, which heavily suggests the module is fine, so my guess would be the issue is somewhere on the software side of your PC. Have you tried it on a different PC? Are you using the special ploytec driver that's linked to from somewhere on ucapps.de?
  12. Hehe, no I am not specifically grumpy with you, just in general ;-)
  13. It's possible you broke one of the ICs by feeding it 5V without a ground connection, so it might just be that. My next suggestion would be to check the continuity of the J1 pins to the correspoding pins of the 74HC165s. You can use http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_dinx4.pdf as reference. Make sure the SC/RC/SI pins connect to the IC.
  14. The sheer amount of data sent can cause the USB connection to become unstable. USB power and 3.3V AINs have a tendency to lead to jitter. Cranking up the deadband a bit more of manually filtering the values might be a suitable workaround. Cleaner (non-usb-)power would probably stop the jitter.
  15. Yes, the pictures are kinda... not really all that helpful ;) Are the resistor networks correctly oriented? They should have a little white dot above one pin, that pin should be next to the dot on the PCB.
  16. At this point we have essentially no information other than "I might have borked something on the board". I seriously doubt it's the software, since it's playing the sound. a) Did you upload the correct firmware (the sammichFM variant)? b) Show some pics of the CS board, both top and bottom side. This let us take a look at what might be problems instead of asking for each individual part's placement ;)
  17. Smithy: I think you obviosly missed half the point. While obviously taste differs, I am pretty sure that for most people the origin of the box filtered into the amount of non-liking. Also, as we all know "it's a long way from the render..." and I am absolutely positive that the final real life result is going to be hideous.
  18. Pin 8 would be the ground pin of the IC, which is connected to the ground plane (which is why you don't see any traces coming off of it). If that's not properly connected the CS won't work. Check continuity between ground and IC2:8 - if it's not connected, fix it. Then try again.
  19. O hai. Methinks this is good enough for the classic:
  20. You've seen =scratch]this, I assume? I'd think it's a good base for your use-case.
  21. If your resistance measure of .408 actually means 408Ohms (read: your meter is set to 1k) then 50Ohms between +5V and ground is in fact too low, making it look like you have a short somewhere. Follow the audio +5V path and see if there's any shorts: C5, C7, IC3 -> power jumper power jumper -> IC51, C53, C54, IC52 (IC51/52 have pin 1 and 3 being +5V and pin 2 Gnd, make sure you have no shorts on the pins there) power jumper -> IC54, C55, R60, R62 power jumper -> IC53, C52, R56, R58 Have some non-blurry, closeup pics?
  22. "As far as I can tell" - How can you tell? What's the resistance? Does your meter have a "beep" mode, if so does it constantly beep or just for a short time?
  23. http://ucapps.de/mbhp_core_lpc17.html "Since the LPCXPRESSO module doesn't provide dedicated pins for the two Ethernet Socket LEDs, you have to solder them directly from the appr. on-board SMD LEDs to J26 of the core module with two wires (click on picture to enlarge)." J27 is between IC2 and J28.
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