arumblack

can you then send it to the bankstick from the internal bank? sorry i don't have any experience to offer a better suggestion.

so far as I know(which may not be far enough) as long as you want the two switches to have identical functions, then yes.

but you would only get one button per jack, or two if you used a stereo jack. if that's all you need though, definitely a good solution.

actually , the link at the top of the page is the esp link... so you found it once more!

Smash TV will do your pic if you ask Nicely...;)

You lucky dog! McLean is less than 50 miles from me, but I know it's not TK!

I was just checking on my order status from smash tv, and noticed someone has ordered from him in McLean VA. I am In Linden VA. I was just curios as to who it is? we live relatively close....Closer than anyone else here anyway i guess.

Mouser no, they are a distributer(i guess this is what you call them) you would want to check with the actual manufacturer of the components you want samples for. check the website first.there is a thread about this somewhere, look for it.it has a list of places that do samples. there are surely more.

i would do as DOC say's plug your components in the vectorboard without soldering(or really if you know the layout you want, just not the measurements yet, go ahead and solder. then if a pot or led or round button, measure the distance form center of one component to center of the next, and so on. then you know where to center punch to drill out holes, or where to put the centers in your CAD drawing. for square componentes you can do the same. just you need a square hole. If you are making your own, you can drill, and then use a Nibbler to square the hole.

Meeshka: I think those are also seperate pins, though it is not as clearly stated as the other ones, there are five holes on the pcb layot, two marked + and - so i would assume those are the led, as a switch has no polarity.

yes theese do exist. i was considering ordering some myself and marked the page in my Mouser catalog. of course there are many othersI'm sure. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=362490&e_categoryid=142&e_pcodeid=01016 there is a data sheet there. seperate pins for the led and switch. spst off(on) the (on) indicates momentary.

Look here to see how Thorsten did his sid.http://www.midibox.org/midibox_sid_photos/ If you can find those buttons with the long shafts. otherwise make some sort of button or buy ones with tops.

no, it was 909 on 10/18/04, see this post http://www.midibox.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=misc;action=display;num=1074396264 so much growth! but what do you expect, this is the best midi diy site ever!!!

Remember to select the a variant in ic prog.

I have pm'ed you northernlightx. ryan, do you still need chips?

could be dope for a pocket size midi monitor!

Northernlightx or ryan? have you ordered yet? I have been trying to but i can not get the money to germany. Wire transfer cost's too much(45dollars!) and i don't think he takes paypal(i have sent an email asking).I cannot get a international money order at the post office in euro's. i am running out of options.

Don't you have the trimmer pot's right on the core module itself? those are for the lcd.

for what do you wish to use it. It should be possible, with modified code.take a look at the midi mon, it uses a 4x20, to get an idea how to implemet the extra lines.

It can happen. although i am using one that got tossed around in a box of junk for a year or so, and was never handled as a static sensitive component should and it works fine. it has an el backlight though, which i can't test right now as i have no inverter, but the text displays properly on the screen, albeit hard to read without the backlight.

i am using a home made board, that i wasn't going to use after the core i made on a homemade board didn't work.i have since built a core from smash's boards and it works fine.maybe the board is bad? but it is by far the best one i made. perhaps i just have to wait and order new boards(like i was going to, but had a day off due to weather so i decided to try this board anyway).

The other ic's get 5v from the core, which isn't wired up yet. (or am i wrong here? i checked and they were not getting 5v.)perhaps the 7812 is bad? i am by far no expert, but how otherwise could i get nearly 14 volts from it?the sid page says i should get 12v without the sid plugged.i will check the transistors, but they should be placed right,the layout is the one published here and the part is bc547a. this still wouldn't make it 13.7 volts directly after the 7812 though would it?

a wall wart, 12vac,830mAafter the 7812 i get the same,13.7 or so volts. the measurement stright from the wall wart, with nothing plugged in is about 15v.

hey all, i just threw together a sid module and when i do the voltage test i get 13.7 or so volts. i find this odd because, 1) i should get 12, and 2 i am only using a 12 volt ac supply? i am guessing this is not ok(nearly 2 volts higher than it should be.) i don't want to fry my sid... i have checked for solder bridges, i don't see any and i poked around with a continuity tester in suspect area's.the only thing that i think it could be, is that i left out the 1nf cap on the audio input,because i must have forgot to order it. i was hoping this wouldn't be a problem, i don't need the audio input right now, but i shure would love to hear some sid.... any idea's? or will this 13.7 volts be ok? the 7812 gets warm, but that is normal right? although i havent left it on too long, maybe it gets hotter? any help apreciated.

Awesome tips!