sneakthief

This is the first time I see this here - seems like an easy pairing with MIDIbox: https://yamaha-webmusic.github.io/ymf825board/intro/index-e.html This seems to be the only place to buy it: https://international.switch-science.com/catalog/3399/

I have 1x unused blue Alientek OLED (as chosen by TK). The protective plastic is still on the front. These 16-pin I2S/I2C/Parallel OLEDs are now very difficult to find! 9€ for the last one. (2€ shipping to DE, 4€ for the rest of the EU)

Hi Roel, check your PM's from 5 years ago - we had this whole discussion and I helped you setup your compiling environment to get 0.5 up and running :)

Audio Commander's AC Sensorizer on the PIC18f quantizes incoming notes and note-timing based on the internal or external midi clock: - harmonizer with 20 scales (minor, major, blues, spanish…) ? harmonizes generated or received (by MIDI!) note-signals - syncronizer: master/slave mode (autodetect clock input switches to slave) and selectable BPM - quantized events: 1/2/3/4/6/8/12/16/24/32/48, selectable per sensor http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=acsensorizer_04 Although this was made primarily to read and interpret incoming analog voltage signals via an AIN module, it's great for midi too. If you're interested, I have version 0.5 which isn't listed on that page.

Just get the screen. You can easily ignore if it's a subtle colour like orange on black.

It's a resistive touch screen, so no multi-touch. BTW there are supposedly authorized sellers of this on eBay. Search for Nextion. Also, the enhanced version has more flash, an RTC and some simple GPIOs.

Most MIDIbox displays are quite utilitarian. You have to admit, CLCD's have their useful limits when designing user interfaces. The tiny OLED's also have limited value, and there hasn't been any touchscreen developments. Imagine you could quickly design the graphics & interface for a touchscreen display on your PC, download it to a custom standalone LCD - and simply communicate commands over a MIDIbox serial UART, eg. button presses, page changes, sliders, gauges, etc. That's what Nextion LCD's do - they cost about $15 USD (2.4" 320x240) to $80 USD (7" 800x480) and have an STM32 on-board with flash to store graphics and commands. https://nextion.itead.cc/ https://www.itead.cc/wiki/Nextion_HMI_Solution I bought a 2.4" to connect with a little custom sequencer I'm building. I'll write about my progress here.

The from ucapps.de mb808 page: Song: restore pattern chain A1..H8. Up to 64 chains can be stored in a separate "Song" BankStick), same selection method as in pattern page. If no "Song" BankStick is connected, all LEDs will flash to inform you about this state (no Chain store/restore possible). The CS configuration of this BankStick can be changed in the setup_*.asm file. By default it's CS=3

You need multiple eeproms.

I was just looking at this problem again last week with a new Ethernet board I bought. My results are exactly the same as Rowan's above. Must be a bug somewhere!

...and sold

I bought 4 blue Alientek OLEDs (as chosen by TK) for 8 euro each and never used them. The protective plastic is still on the front. 4x for 20€ (2€ shipping to DE, 4€ for the rest of the EU)

I used Inkscape on Windows extensively to make my MBCV2 case and never encountered any problems like you mentioned. Very strange!

Does this theoretically have double the polyphony seeing as the stm32f4 has twice the CPU power?

spange187 - why don't you ask Yamaha to sell you a replacement LCD? It's also the same screen as the RM1x and the Portatone PSR-740. jojjelito - that link you sent is for a Yamaha SY77/TG77. I already confirmed that it has an EL foil ;) FWIW, I've had two RS7000's for 12 years, and before that an RM1x for just as long - the EL foils get slightly dimmer with time but not drastically so. But as I said, none of the coils have ever made any noticeable noise. btw, here are my crazy RS7000 mods: https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61662&sid=15c5a0bb97c38f034b75597d19706b9b http://sneak-thief.com/nordrs7000.html

The failure mode of RM1x and RS7000 screens is when the ribbon cable starts unbonding from the LCD glass, leading to more and more lines of the screen. In my experience it's not really repairable. BTW, removing the EL foil definitely makes the LCD harder to read. I've never noticed any coil whine even when working on it with the case open. Anyhow, go check out the RS7000 yahoo group in case you haven't already.

Betreff STM32F4 Discovery: eBay.de is am einfachsten, z.B. http://www.ebay.de/itm/1-Stk-STM32F4DISCOVERY-/271789126248?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item3f47e4f268

- 2x 40x2 LCD

3V is OK - the STM32F4 Discovery seems to use 3V instead of 3.3V

Kester 245 is engineered to complement low-residue fluxes used in electronics production. Proper use results in a clean assembly with clear residue – yet the soldering quality is equivalent to that of mildly activated rosin flux. Kester 275 was developed to offer superior wetting performance for hand soldering in electronics production, and to reduce spattering typical of other core fluxes. The results are an extremely clear post-soldering residue with no cleaning. Kester 331 Organic Flux is a water soluble formula for use in flux-cored solder wire. This cored solder version of the popular 2331-ZX Neurtral Organic Water Soluble Liquid Flux is more effective than rosin fluxes in soldering difficult metals. The same fast action and mild properties are exhibited with 331 Organic Flux as with the liquid 2331-ZX. The flux is more heat stable than most organic fluxes, resulting in minimal smoke and odor. The residue can be completely removed with a simple water rinse. Kester 331 is made from polyethelyne glycol instead of rosin (pine tree sap). You have to wash it within a couple hours to prevent corrosion. As such, 331 shouldn't be used on switches and pots - basically anything that the flux can corrode. However, it's supposedly much less toxic since rosin-based fluxes release some nasty things like formaldehydes, hydrochloric acid and other gases containing benzene, toluene, styrene, phenol, chlorophenol, etc.: http://www.sentryair.com/solder-fumes.htm Check out this discussion for more info about solder choices for synth DIY: https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=271545

I tried powering my STM32F4 core with both the USB micro and mini ports: - via USB from my PC. I measured the power draw to be 320mA (with only the core and the ethernet module) - via a dedicated 2A 5V USB power adapter I gave up with this ethernet adapter and ordered this one instead as it also has a 5V input: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-ENC28J60-Ethernet-LAN-Network-Module-For-Arduino-SPI-AVR-PIC-LPC-STM32-/381090520292?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:CA:3160 I'll report back when I get the new one. I'm just going to assume the one I have now is crap.

My ENC28J60 supposedly takes in 3.3V. I've tried 5V & 3V from the core and also a bench power supply sending 3.3V. It doesn't make a difference: they all give a "glitch detected" when the SD card is connected.

I used a 3.3V bench power supply and I still get errors when the SD is also connected.

Rowan: yes, I'm definitely using RC2 - as per the MBHP_ETH schematics. I triple-checked it with my multimeter. Here's an odd addition: Both ethernet & SD Card work briefly in MIDIbox Seq V4 - the previous behaviour was with MIDIbox NG & CV2, however, when I use MB SEQ V4, the ethernet cable is detected for a second: [3634559.440] network [3634559.441] Ethernet cable connected: yes [3634559.442] Ethernet MAC address: 00:39:36:30:39:31 [3634559.442] Ethernet services running: yes [3634559.442] DHCP: enabled [3634559.442] IP address: 192.168.0.100 [3634559.442] Netmask: 255.255.255.0 [3634559.442] Default Router (Gateway): 192.168.0.1 ...then a few seconds later, after a glitch (SD Card being accessed?) it isn't detected as connected when the SD card is plugged in BUT it reports that ethernet services are still running: [3634560.552] [MIOS32_ENC28J60_PackageReceive] glitch detected - Ptr: ff00, Status: 7fb8 (max: 05ee) cc7f [3634559.440] network [3634559.441] Ethernet cable connected: yes [3634559.442] Ethernet MAC address: 00:39:36:30:39:31 [3634559.442] Ethernet services running: yes [3634559.442] DHCP: enabled [3634559.442] IP address: 192.168.0.100 [3634559.442] Netmask: 255.255.255.0 [3634559.442] Default Router (Gateway): 192.168.0.1 However, running "set dhcp on" after this happens doesn't work and the IP is lost. Weird!

I tried both 5V and 3.3V. Whenever I insert the SD card, the ethernet just dies: