DavidBanner

thanks for the tips seppo! I've already read the manual/tutorial from Eagle, and I think I'm starting to get the hang of it. And yes, after the inital WTF is going on here I'm getting the hang of building new library parts, that said I'd always grab one if it's available, especially as it's less likely to have mistakes than the ones i'm building from scratch...

I've finally decided to bite the bullet and learn Eagle. Can anyone please point me in the direction of a decent online tutorial? I've found a few which are helping and read the Eagle Tutorial PDF but there are still some big bits of knowledge missing. can anyone point me to "10 steps to Eagle CAD" that mobieus mentioned? In the meantime if anyone is kind enough to want to answer any of the following newbie questions I'd be most grateful: If you are doing a 2 sided board, are the though holes (vias?) automatically placed on the board or do I need to do it manually? has anyone got the library object for the encoders smashTV sells? when editing/creating a new library object is there a quick way to select layers without going into the layers menu and turning off the layer you don't want to move?

stryd makes a good point, you do get what you pay for, but beware you can end up selling kidneys for some buttons. check out: http://www.rapidonline.com/products.aspx?tier1=Electronic+Components&tier2=Switches&tier3=Tactile+Switches actually I think some of the prices have come right down, I remember paying double what they are asking for some of their buttons 12 months ago (but then my memory is a bit hazy)...

welcome to the board dude (reminds me of that song "Hey Dude, Don't Call Me Dude"! I love the attitude and the positivity you are giving off - you'll be a full blown midibox addict in no time!

the biggest problem with lasers and aluminium is laser flashbacks, which can kill the lens... Most ppl won't touch it with a laser and the 1 place I did get to do it not only got massive flashbacks but also completely f***ed the panel too Make sure your GF asks for some advice before she starts hitting ali with a laser - I'd hate to hear about an industrial accident or her getting into trouble for killing a lens.

Goblinz, as I understand it the kits will be on smash's site in due course (i.e. when Mr TV gets the time), there should be enough for everyone and I haven't heard anything about pre-orders so I'd assume that the kits will be on sale the same as everything else on his site.

sigh - this makes me so sad, I can just imagine how this must feel for the people who have put the most into uCapps. Unfortunately I get the feeling the more it's discussed and dragged up the worse it is. TK, smashTV etc are all aware of the situation and I'm sure they are doing what they feel is best and most appropriate, quietly and out of public view. It's a nice idea, but where would it live, who would run it etc etc. For this and a lot of other reasons I'm not sure that selling boxes is the way forward. But let's face it the only opinion that matters is TK's.

thanks for clearing that up, I read that as you were offering free post to ppl in the US only.... Never underestimate the power of wishful thinking ;)

omg! that's not nice work at all, in fact it looks like my 1st core ::)

oops, I should have said, "I would prefer the translucent ones if possible please".... (please excuse my manners, I forget myself 1st thing in the mornings sometimes) i.e. I'll take the grey if the clear ones aren't available

I want the clear ones!!! They are the blueish clear ones right? I did ask about them in the first posting if that counts for anything ;)

wicked-e: we are talking a few pence per unit difference here, and it's not like you can go out and get them elsewhere.... how about showing a bit of support for the community and take the risk of paying out a few extra pounds/euros than you might have expected?

my first choice would be the clear blusih grey as pictured on the US bulk order thread. but I think they are no longer available, so I guess grey plastic with the black rubber would be best (for me anyway). and yes we should defo stick to one colour I'm pretty sure a europe order would be well supported, let me know if I can help in any way.

I'm in the UK and I'll take 60 if you organise a bulk order....

it doesn't make sense, but then you know that already :) stryd - you got any more ideas?

sorry dude, what I meant to ask is, when you watch the LCD and connect to J2 does the core power off or reset?

ah cool, had a horrible feeling I'd missed/forgotten to pay an invoice....

prof - do I owe you any money?

as far as I know they are done in Python, so in theory at least you could decompile them if you really wanted to....

what's happening to the LCD when you plug the connection on J2?

sounds like the problem could be in the cable/connection going from J2 of the 1st DIN to J1 of the "child" DIN are you using smashTV kits?

if you're using ain64_din128_dout128_v1_3.zip and still getting problems then it's not likely to be s/w related. what you are describing doesn't make sense unless it's a cable issue, but you've checked those..... mmmm (scratches head) - anyone else got any suggestions??

mmm, so there more than enough power for sure... try dout_enc_v1_3.zip - Utility which allows to select one of 128 DOUTs with an encoder to see which LEDs are affected and also ain64_din128_dout128_v1_3.zip to see if any DINs are jamming on.... Also have you set the amount of shift registers on the DIN correctly?

mmm, that's odd! have you checked the cables too? What test application(s) have you tried? and i'm pretty sure this isn't it, but how big is your power supply?

I've yet to impliment tables into my code, so I'll be interested to see your progress and hopefully save some time when i come to do it. Stryd is your man if you get stuck...