doc

Synth-for-all ! 8)

Just have a look at the german formun. They are doing a order list at the moment. greets Doc

Hi, just some minor corrections: You'll need 3 x CORE (because of the 18 Motor Faders. One Core can handle up to 8 Motor Fader) 3 x MF Module 1 x DINX4 (for the buttons) 1 x DOUX4 (for LEDs) 1 x USB Module If you just use 16 Motor-Faders you'll need only 2 Cores. - or - if you use fader without motor you'll only need one Core, no MF and one AIN Module.Think about that. You'll need the DOUTX4 module to drive leds for the buttons. No idea about the lighted faders. greets Doc

Wow, ... not really new .... If you have the money ! Just think how many ready made frontpanels from Schaeffer you'll get for this amount of money ! :P greets Doc

Hi, your problem is a typical cross-talk problem. Why don't you use a relay to switch the two amps properly (whith grounding the other amp), In this way you can still drive the leds. greets Doc

Hi mb944, I can not recomment such long cables ! I once tested connection length from the DIN to the core. Result: Everthing larger than 2 m causes random midi messages (I used flat cable). Perhaps you have to use a shielded cable ? I think 1 m between the shift registers should be no problem - test it ! I had the same problem. Now I use seperate Cores for each VST ;) greets Doc

Oh.. Ohh.. it's gettin hot in the forum .... 8) I had to read the whole thread twice, but still can't believe this ! Let's grab the facts: - it's well known that we don't have bypass caps in the layouts - RIGHT - it's also well known that this doesn't matter till now - RIGHT - I built a lot of boxes , and if noise was a problem I took caps (...but it never was...). - RIGHT - Most people don't need caps in their boxes - RIGHT - if somebody has a modification - just post it and we use it ! - RIGHT @KD: - I'm sorry, if this was told before, please be a little more polite with your words ! - It's not fun to read your comments ! - It's always easy to find something wrong -> don't critizise - change it. SO....... WHERE IS YOUR (ABSOLUTLY PROOFEN) LAYOUT ? means: if you know it better - thats fine - just give us a link where we can download the new EAGLE files. After doing this you'll earn our respect. Not before. If you just want to join the community with your (unfair) comments please go and build some more GSM phones or what ever such an "expert" has to do. We go on building our stupid midiboxes and having fun with them ! ;D By the way: My mobile phone is more often damaged than my midibox..... @SMASH I think it's not worse to get angry on that comments. Just go on. You also do a good job ! (Ähm...I still do my layouts by myself... hope you won't kill me.. ;) I think it's a kind of boring for me to read useless things like RFI , EMI or other facts with three letters. Till now it don't gave us anything new for our boxes, or not ? greets DOC (sorry for the bad english ...no native speaker ...)

You're almost right: It's 9V for 8580 (you'll need a 7809 regulator) and it's 12V for the 6581 (you'll need a 7812 regulator) Look into the schematic of the SID Module, then it becomes clearer. greets Doc

Hi Jack, Sorry, aber nimm es nicht so persönlich 8) ... wir sind aber heute empfindlich ... ;D Ich habe übrigens gar nicht so sehr Dich und Deinen Kommentar gemeint , denn dieses Thema kursiert schon seit Jahren im Forum. ...und Beleidigen wollte ich auch niemanden. Also. Nix für ungut. Doc

Hi Jungs, ich kann Herrn Schmidt durchaus verstehen, daß er nicht jede eMail mit einer Anfrage von 8 - 20 Fadern plus 2 Knöpfen beantwortet ! Man tut der Firma allerdings unrecht, wenn man deswegen rumpöbelt. Ich habe vor ca. einem Jahr meine Fader und Knöpfe direkt bei Ihm bestellt und bin astrein bedient worden. Schon damals regte ich im Forum eine mögliche Sammelbestellung an. Es kamen aber null konkrete Anfragen zustande. Ich glaube auch nicht, dass wir es dieses Mal auf die Reihe kriegen eine vernünftige Sammelbestellung auf die Beine zu stellen. Ich habe seinerzeit lange mit Herrn Schmidt telefoniert und kann nur sagen, das er die Sache ganz reell sieht. Denn es gehört halt mehr dazu als nur mal schnell im Forum zu posten, daß man auch ein paar Fader haben wil. Was haltet ihr denn von der Idee, wenn es mal einer in die Hand nimmt die Bestellanfragen zu sammeln und dann (wenn wir die Menge wissen) eine konkrete Preisanfrage an Herrn Schmidt zu stellen. Vielleicht kann man im Forum auch so eine Art Online-Anfrage einrichten, die dann zu einer konkreten Bestellung wird. Leider ist es oft auch so eine Sache mit den Online Geschäften. Man muß ja auch irgendwie an das Geld für die Bestellung kommen.... Eigentlich sehe ich die Aufgabe der "Anfrage-Sammlung" bei unseren Teile- & Platinenversendern. Hier könnten doch eigentlich die "Bestellfäden" zusammenlaufen, oder ? Meinungen ? greets Doc .... Mann hab' ich heut' einen Redeschwall .... :P

Ok, the 12V (or 9V with regulator) is no problem ! The 5V is also OK with a 20*2 LCD. If you you use a 40X2 with backlight and the SID Step C (a lot of LEDs) then it could be that the 700mA are not enough Power. But it's worth a try !! greets DOC

Hi, I remember those psu's ( I gave mine away 20 years ago or so ...) The circuit would be more easy than the C64 PSU because of the DC for both voltages. Can you find out how much current the psu delivers ? If this would be enough to drive the MB you just need a 9V regulator for the SID (or leave 12V for the other SID) greets Doc

Mmmmm, in most cases I cannot recomment those sliding switches. Usually they don't live very long ... :P Can you write a little bit more on your project ? What do you want to "switch" with the 3 way switch ? greets Doc

Hi, No, you can't change this layout because of the Mackie protocol. In fact, theres not really a need for more encoders in the mixer section. If you've lerned to deal with this single encoder you don't want more encoders... 8) I also use several midiboxes to control several VST Plugins. Thats the best way, I think. In fact that you can design your midibox for your purpose, you can make good special controllers for several plugins. Be aware of designs that are not implemented in Cubase. You'll run in a lot of trouble and Cubase Support is not very helpful in "design" issues. Means: If the feature you want is not implemented yet, you'll always get the answer: "Perhaps in next release ....". If you want to realize a design with 16 encoders per channel you'll have to use the "generic controller" in cubase. But you also lost the "Display per channel" feature in this operation mode. Not really a good solution. greets Doc

Hi, I think, the MIDIBOX LC is the best for your need. If you want 16 or 24 Faders you have to build the Box twice or triple. Of course you only have to build the channel section twice or triple. The "Master" functions (like transport, and so on) you only have to build once ! I can only speak for Cubase: Meanwhile it is no problem if you have more fader. You just have to set up another "Mackie Controller" as a Slave device. You don't have to set up the box as a generic Controller, if you use the Mackie Protocol. The slave solution works since Version 2.xx. ..... Oh, shit, I forgot the version. Just browse through the Forum. There is a threat on this behaviour, I think half a year ago. The behaviour of the channel section depends on which Box is Master and the the order of the slaves (but that is no problem). So if you, for example, press the "bank right" button you'll see the channels 17 to 32 (On a 16 Fader box). greets Doc

Ähm, wenn Du die Chips nach der Größe aussuchst, hast Du ungefähr 4 Milliarden Versuche ! :P Den Controller kannst Du zwar kaufen, aber dann ist er noch nicht programmiert.... Auch ich rate Dir : Bring das Gerät zu Doepfer oder lass es mal von einem Profi checken. Nichts für ungut: Aber wenn Du so weitermachst, richtest Du vermutlich mehr Schaden an, als schon ist ;) Gruß Doc

Hi, Mann, das ist ja eine ganze Menge auf einmal. Lass uns mal sortieren: 8) 1.) Die Fehlerbeschreibung zu deinem doepfer ist einfach zu wage um genaue Aussagen zu treffen. Natürlich kannst du das Keyboard auch mit fremder Hardware betreiben. Seh dich mal auf ucapps um ! 2.) Wenn Du VST Instrumente und Cubase steuern willst, ist eine MidiBox LC das Richtige für Dich. Sieh' Dir die Box mal auf ucapps an (unter Midibox NG) oder such im Forum nach Cubase bzw LC. Gruss Doc

Hi, I had the same problem than you some years ago. I ended up with a "2 way" solution: We still have a big 4-way passive PA System and we bought a Mackie active PA. The result after 4 years: We still have both PA Systems , but mostly we use the Mackie because of the easy handling. Of course you have to supply power to every active speaker. But this does take not so many time than wiring the passive components up. (Another thing to mention: The power cabling can be done by the stage dummies....the passive speaker wiring you have to do by yourself ... ) I was also unsure in the beginning, but now I really prefer the active solutions. You save a lot of time at the setup with this units. And the quality (especially with MACKIE) is really no argument anymore. Another thing: For real big power PA Speakers you always have to use ultra-heavy-big speaker-cables 8). (They are really heavy !). You can forget about this with active components. The power cable looks always the same for a small active component or for a big active component ... greets Doc

Hi, ok. 70 Euros is a lot of money.... I don't know the chips used in your applications. One thing you should keep in mind: Is it legal in your country to send in the FM Band ? - You will get a lot of trouble in the FM Band (in my country). Profesional wireless systems are using other (higher) frequencies. (The VIVANCO Set uses 868 MHz) - The quality of DIY FM transmissions are normally poor (I did it once but the result was lousy !). No diversity. A lot of noise, and so on. The cheapest way for your problem is a long cable .... ;D greets Doc

Hi, it's not really simple to build such a transmitter for a hobbiest. In fact that there are many ready solutions for small money on the market. For example: VIVANCO. It's about 70€ in excellent quality with batterie boxes in stereo. You won't be able to build that for that money. greets Doc

Wow, so those TO3 parts are 3A regulators. Fine! Just change the fuses and have a go ! greets Doc

Hi, are you sure, that these supplies are switching type ? They look pretty solid to me. If you look at the pcb's you can see four diodes for rectifing, a big cap, and a power transistor (I think) . What's the label of the TO-3 part ? If I'm right (and thats not sure) you have 3 nice solid parts. The maximum rating depends on the TO-3 transistor and the transformer. The fuses are really a little bit confusing. I think they are primary. Otherwise they would make no sense on the secondary output. You don't need such a big transformer for only 1 A output . The 12V unit seems to have two primary fuses. In fact, this only makes sense if this transformer has two primary windings. It would be intresting to measure the voltage on the fuses to identify if they are primary or secondary (just be careful with main power ...). greets Doc

Hi, ...I think you have to ... and not only a second core : You also need another MF Module. Perhaps you can find something else to control with the other 7 Motorfaders ? (the volume, sound, balance, the kitchen window , and so on ...) ;D Maybe TK knows a better solution. greets Doc

Hi, I hope I understood you right... You want to tin the surface of the pcb before soldering ? - You don't have to. The only thing you can do before soldering the pcb is to clean it with "Spiritus" (don't know the englisch word, it's 100% alcohol - but don't drink it !). to eliminate the fat from fingerprints and other rubbish. Normally thats all. You can then use (if you like) a spray called "Lötlack SK 10" from Kontakt Chemie" (don't know the english word, also. It's a flux and a protection resin ). When the board is finished (and tested) I sometimes use another spray from "Kontakt Chemie" called "Plastik 70". It's a transparent paint coat to protect the board from oxidation. greets Doc

No, they are mot pre-assembled. You have to make them by yourself. A lot of LEDs ... greets Doc