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Everything posted by nILS
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Macht er <grummel>'nen ist die Abkürzung für einen, es heißt aber das Display; somit ist es ein Display und damit abgekürzt 'n Display.</grummel> Na klar, kompilieren kannst Du das. Aber ob es das macht, was Du erwartest ist eine ganz andere Sachen. Einige Operatoren binden stärker als andere; gleiches Prinzip wie bei "Punkt vor Strich". Abgesehen davon hilft eine anständige Klammerung unmittelbar der Lesbarkeit und damit mittelbar Fehler zu vermeiden. Wenn Du mit MIOS Studio und "Smart Mode" hochlädst, ja. Dann werden alle gesendeten Pakete quittiert. Du könntest auch einfach in der USER_INIT ein paar Bytes per MIDI rausschicken - evtl. sowas wie eine Versionsnummer. Dann siehst Du auch ob's klappt.
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+1 for orange in general.
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Short answer: no. Somewhat longer answer: sorta. It'll involve some programming and additional parts.
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Nice one - and literally retro :-)
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Pack doch mal in die DISPLAY_Init sowas wie: MIOS_LCD_CursorSet(0x00); MIOS_LCD_PrintCString("Test 13"); Dann siehst Du wenigstens gleich ob die neue Version drauf ist. Wenn das nicht hilft funktioniert der Upload offensichtlich nicht. Sowas: if(pin >=4 && pin <=7) solltest Du unbedingt klammern, es sei denn Du bist Dir 100% wie Dein Compiler die Bindungen wichtet. Sicherer ist also if ((pin >= 4) && (pin <= 7)) Noch was am Rand: Einrückungen sind eine tolle Sache, solltest Du Dir angewöhnen, das hilft anderen (wie mir) Deine Code schneller lesen zu können. Außerdem kannst Du Dir eine Menge Deiner {} sparen. Geschmackssache aber ich finde das so deutlich besser zu lesen ;) void DIN_NotifyToggle(unsigned char pin, unsigned char pin_value) __wparam { // Midi Events senden MIOS_MIDI_BeginStream(); MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(0x90); MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(pin); MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(pin_value ? 0x00 : 0x7f); if (pin < 4) { // bei button 0-3 soll nurletzte gedrückte led leuchten MIOS_DOUT_PinSet0(0x00); MIOS_DOUT_PinSet0(0x01); MIOS_DOUT_PinSet0(0x02); MIOS_DOUT_PinSet0(0x03); MIOS_DOUT_PinSet1(pin); } else if ((pin >=4) && (pin <=7)) { // bei button 4-7 soll nurletzte gedrückte led leuchten MIOS_DOUT_PinSet0(0x04); MIOS_DOUT_PinSet0(0x05); MIOS_DOUT_PinSet0(0x06); MIOS_DOUT_PinSet0(0x07); MIOS_DOUT_PinSet1(pin); } else if ((pin >=8) && (pin <=15)) { // bei button 8-15 soll nurletzte gedrückte led leuchten MIOS_DOUT_SRSet(1, 0x00); MIOS_DOUT_PinSet1(pin); } else if ((pin > 39) && (pin < 50)) { // bei button 40 - 49 nurletzte gedrückte led leuchten MIOS_DOUT_SRSet(5, 0x00); MIOS_DOUT_PinSet0(0x30); MIOS_DOUT_PinSet0(0x31); MIOS_DOUT_PinSet1(pin); } else if ((pin >=56) && (pin <=57)) {// led von button 56 - 57 soll nur leuchten wenn button gedrückt MIOS_DOUT_PinSet(pin, MIOS_DOUT_PinGet(pin) ^ 0xFF); else if (pin == 58) {// Button 58 soll alle LED´s ausschalten MIOS_DOUT_SRSet(0, 0x00); MIOS_DOUT_SRSet(1, 0x00); MIOS_DOUT_SRSet(2, 0x00); MIOS_DOUT_SRSet(3, 0x00); MIOS_DOUT_SRSet(4, 0x00); MIOS_DOUT_SRSet(5, 0x00); MIOS_DOUT_SRSet(6, 0x00); MIOS_DOUT_SRSet(7, 0x00); } else { //alle buttons anderen sollen die leds togglen if (pin_value == 1) return; MIOS_DOUT_PinSet(pin, MIOS_DOUT_PinGet(pin) ^ 0xFF); MIOS_MIDI_BeginStream(); MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(0x90); MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(0x3C + pin); MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(0x64 + pin); MIOS_MIDI_EndStream(); } }[/code]
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Ja, wenn der upload nicht geht ändert sich nix, das ist soweit schon klar. Was genau geht denn beim Upload nicht? Lass' Dir doch nicht alle Details aus der Nase ziehen...
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No worries Goblinz, I got some extras so you'll get blank ones like everyone else ;-)
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...just make sure to check the list of soundcards known to have the chips on the wiki ;-)
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I'll start shipping them outin no specific order next week. You'll get yours if you paid (3 people haven't) - please wait quietly until you get yours ;)
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Fehler "Received error code 0B..." - ich brauch dringend Hilfe
nILS replied to themasterchris's topic in Deutsch
Schau mal ob Dein midi-device auf der blacklist steht, üblicherweise ist das Verhalten, das Du beschreibst darauf zurückzuführen. -
"labs"? I don't have a lab. I have a desk. And a lamp. I love lamp.
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<rant>My eyes... my poor little eyes. It's "SmashTV" for crying out loud, have the decency to spell the man's name correctly. ;)</rant>
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... It's generally better to use the left one :D
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... Yes and your company is probably willing to pay for that, as opposed to most midiboxers. Don't worry, you'll get your PCBs pretty soon ;-) Now wait quietly.
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I don't know exactly what the internals of a 303 look like but still I dare say - it's possible. What modules do you need? Well a core for sure and the rest depends on the amount of pots (AOUT) buttons (DOUT) you wanna control. Find out how many outputs you'll need and then check for the modules needed, all the info is right here on the forum or here: http://www.ucapps.de http://wiki.midibox.org/
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Ain't there no such thing as chat privacy around here? ;)
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Share your early (not-so-great) works! (formerly your first one)
nILS replied to Enth's topic in Songs & Sounds
People steal your music? Damn, you must be good ;) -
...und was Du geändert hast. Da hilft uns Dein Quelltext.
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Yes you can do that. Yes, it's been done. Most people prefer small DSUB9 style jacks for that though. I mounted banksticks in USB jacks, which are nice and easily un/pluggable before. It is kinda pointless for a sid as 7 banksticks (+1 for ensembles) give you a max of 896 patches already.
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Me, too. Looks nicer. Easier to read if you fukt up (which I don't do *cough*)
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The human eye has way more receptors in the red range and especially the green range than the blue range. Hence you need a lot less brightness in the green and red range to make sth appear the same saturation/brightness as sth that's blue. So if a blue LED seems as bright as a green one it's actually a *lot* brighter. Some interesting advice for others since you already made a smart choice: Before soldering your CS, get all the LED candidates that you might wanna use, solder them on a piece of protoboard or stick them on breadboard with socketed resistors for easy change. Power up the whole thing and lay it off to the side of your desk so it's just barely visible in the corner of your eye. Just leave it sitting there for a while. If the brightness of the LEDs is annoying/drawing your attention to it - use bigger resistors or lose some of the colors until the whole thing can sit there lit without hurting your eyes or drawing your attention to it. The LEDs on a control surface are supposed to be indicators, not illuminate the room.
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...it would be easiest to get a gm5x5x5 ;-)
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Depends on the sensor type. A lot of recent cameras don't pick up IR light. Ultra-bright blue - stupid stupid stupid. Not only are you seriously hurting your eyes, you won't be seeing much when more than a couple of the LEDs are on. If you're seriously going through with those LEDs do yourself a favor and at least use huge resistors for them in the 10kish range.
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The one LED on the gm5 pcb is a "midi monitor" LED. It shows the activity of all 5 IO ports.