Wilba

OK... to start with, you aren't measuring the 9V AC pins correctly... the 9V AC coming out of the C64 brick is independent of the 5V/GND coming out. So the readings of the 9V pins at J1A aren't right and can't be, you're probably measuring DC and also measuring it against ground. If you measure AC between the outer pins of J1A, you'll get 9V. It doesn't really matter because your 9V DC measurements look OK anyway. The problem MIGHT BE a missing bridge at J73, which connects the 5V out of S1 to the rest of the 5V tracks on the PCB. It SEEMS like you have J71 and J72 correct, the common pin of the 7809 is connected to ground, so your 9V AC out of the PSU is being turned into 9V DC relative to the SAME ground as the C64 PSU. Which is PSU Option A... when it's PSU Option B, the 9V DC becomes relative to the +5V supply so you can get 14V to make 12V DC with V3. Basically if you see 9V on J4 then that should mean your 9V regulation is fine. and thanks for the beer... I would have helped you more anyway, no need to bribe in advance :thumbsup:

You need to check the other supply to the SID... i.e. at pin 28, and where it's connected to the 9V or 12V (depending on SID type). You can try a different test to narrow down what the problem might be: - take out the SIDs from both modules - bridge pins 8 and 27 with a 1K resistor - run the testtone app This will generate a 1kHz square wave tone (same as the testtone app makes with the SID) by toggling pin 8 at 1kHz, which is thus connected to the audio buffer circuit at pin 27 (the SID's audio out pin). Pin 8 is connected to SID:J2:SO so this is another test if this connection to the PIC is working. Refer to the SID module schematic so you know what I mean by pin 8 and pin 27 of the SID IC socket: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_sid_v3.pdf

I'm not sure if you're measuring the 5V correctly out of the plug. Refer to the PCB layout: http://www.mb6582.org/plans/MB-6582_Base_PCB_R2_Color.pdf and measure 5V between the "5V" and "GND" pins on J1A (which is under J1, the power socket), J3 and J4 These should all be the same, and the same as the C64 PSU output, since it outputs regulated 5V so the 5V and ground pins are connected directly to the PCB through the power switch. Since you measured 4.72V on the switch, I'm assuming they'll all show 4.72V and that indicates the PSU isn't that good... it really should be MUCH closer to 5V... like between 4.98V and 5.02V. Refer to this diagram: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_8xsid_c64_psu_optimized.pdf to check the pins of the C64 PSU's plug.... the middle pin is ground, the one next to it is 5V. Note that some C64 PSU's the 5V will be on the OTHER side of ground than shown in this diagram, but this is handled on the PCB by the track between both pins under the socket.

lol I was joking... :P I'm not even partaking in this bulk order... well, maybe I'll get one if it's not white and I'll send my completely unsoldered white one from the last bulk to that one crazy fool who likes white PCBs. (He's just forgotten to vote... he will soon, I'm sure)

I think you answered your own question, but in case not... when you want to use a regulated 12V PSU, the shunts in JBP will short two diodes of the bridge rectifier so you will get exactly 12V on the 7809 inputs and also through the SIDs via JP. An interesting side effect though, if you stuff up the polarity, it will go through the two diodes that are not shorted by JBP and you'll get < 12V but still correct polarity.... so not harmful. In theory you don't need a bridge rectifier for unregulated DC input too, but the bridge is also a neat way of polarity protection (i.e. doesn't matter if it's tip positive or tip negative). You're one of the few people who will use 6581 in sammichSID... so let me know how it goes. Note all that noise you get is entirely the 6581 and not the PCB :wink:

finished: ? shipped: 74 (batches #1, #2, #3) waiting list: 196 (inc. batch #4 in progress)

You're welcome! :devil:

Are they going to be that awful poxy white with black silkscreen again, or will you cave to popular demand (or demands from your Lord and Master on Earth, Wilba the MIDIbox Hero) and make them red with white silkscreen FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11111111111111111111111111111111111111111111oneleven :D

lol @ topic id :D

Why are people using MIDI OX instead of the patch editor? http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual_ed.html

Note that where I label "12V" is where it should be 12V when using a regulated 12V PSU and shunts in JBP, and where it will roughly be 12V for unregulated PSUs. The exact voltage will vary. With very little load (like no ICs installed), an unregulated 12V supply might be 15V or higher, but then drop down to closer to 12V or below under load. So all that is expected behaviour, inc. the diode drop difference, because the DC input is going through a bridge rectifier. That should be OK for 8580/6582A SIDs... I've been using a regulated 12V PSU still going through the bridge rectifier and the 9V supply is stable even with the input voltage being only ~1.5V above output. If you notice the 9V or 5V connections drop after inserting SIDs, then that PSU isn't supplying enough current, but seems unlikely, because it's 400mA (your sammichSID should draw less, with a low-power LCD). It's strange that it's 12.19V for a "regulated" 12V, which should be closer to 12V (see the voltages of 9V and 5V, only 0.01V-0.02V different). Watch what happens at J1 after you insert SIDs... does it stay at exactly 12.19V?

I'm definitely planning to go, so if any MIDIboxers from Melbourne want to have a chat with me, I'll be the scruffy looking dude in the grey sammichSID T-shirt. I'm hoping godinpants will rock the house with his new sammichSID :thumbsup:

Don't worry about them not being "monolithic". The ones you bought are exactly the same as all the 100nF capacitors supplied in SmashTV's parts kit.

lol Blue is evil, looks cool, bad for eyes. FWIW you can use ultrabright LEDs but the problem is if you put too high a resistor to lower the brightness, then you get this strange artifact where the previous column of LEDs (in the matrix) will show a "ghost" glow. What you linked to looks good... The resistor in series with a LED is to limit current, voltage drop across the resistor will be total voltage (in this case 5V) minus forward voltage drop of the LED (in this case 4V). I=V/R means current equals voltage drop divided by resistance... if you use the stock 220 Ohm resistors, that's 1/200 = 0.005 amp = 5mA. That may be bright enough... you probably will need to see it in a circuit to decide... but treat that as your lower limit... if you want max brightness for this LED (20mA) then you do some algebra and turn I=V/R into R=V/I where V=1 and I=0.02 amp (20mA)... 1/0.02=50 Ohms. Now you could stick 50 Ohm resistors in there, but the problem is, the shift register IC won't deliver 20mA to all pins, i.e. if a whole row of 8 LEDs are lit, so sticking 50 Ohm resistors in there will probably not give you the maximum brightness you could get with this LED. Therefore stick with 220 Ohm, it will be slightly less than max brightness for this LED, but this will offset the evil eye-burning effect of blue LEDs as well as make them all be consistently bright, instead of (possibly) different brighness depending on how many in a row are lit. edit by nILS: You suck at the explaining. edit (this time _really_ by nILS): You suck at making jokes others will understand ;)

If you're using PSU option A, a single heatsink is easy to fit. I use a small one with fins, you can see it here: I didn't use one on my original MB-6582, it didn't seem to get hot so I didn't bother... this became a lack of any instructions to use one in the build guide, and lack of one in the parts list. If you're using PSU option B, I do mention heatsink use in the guide: If you can find small U-shape ones that can mount on either side of the regulator, i.e. so the metal side of the regulator goes inside the U, then you can fit three of these to the three regulators... there's one like I suggest in the sammichSID kit on its way to you now :D

Note that in the schematic I referenced, there is a 2200uF electro on the regulated 5V supply, i.e. after the 7805 (or alternative) regulator inside a C64 PSU brick. This (apparently) helps eliminate digital noise, so it's probably a good idea to put one after the 7805 on your PSU for the same effect. It's not needed after a 7809 or 7812 (i.e. for SID supply) because it's not supplying digital ICs so to speak, only the analog part of the SIDs and the audio buffer on the SID module.

It's a good idea to leave the capacitors in... as you're obviously supplying power to the modules from a long-ish cable, so the additional capacitors on the modules are good to have. I read somewhere that anything over two inches from the voltage regulator (even on tracks on the PCB) will require some caps at the end to keep things smooth. I'm no expert on these things, but I designed the MB-6582 PCB and it seems to work... it regulates the 9V with a single 7809 and supplies it to eight SID modules/SIDs via one track, with a few 100nF in each module to keep things smooth. In addition, the MB-6582 takes an external regulated 5V and supplies the whole PCB, I'm using a 2200 uF electro plus the usual 100nF monolithic ceramics everywhere to keep the 5V smooth. So you can take the same approach... Have a look at this circuit: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_8xsid_c64_psu_optimized.pdf It's slightly different to what I've done... as it supplies each SID module with 14V DC and then relies on the 9V or 12V regulator on each SID module to regulate it down to the SID's required voltage. However, use it as a guide to connecting all your modules to a common 5V supply, and/or a common 9V or 12V supply (depending on SID type), and then not stuffing the 9V or 12V regulators on the SID modules themselves.

There are two approaches to desoldering this easily, both involve making the pins separate. Idea #1: The plastic part of the header can slide off the pins. It might be possible to wedge a thin screwdriver under the plastic part and/or pull with long nose pliers, and get the plastic part off the header. Maybe cutting the top of the header pin just above the plastic will make it easier too. Idea #2: Cut through the plastic part with a craft knife. This might make idea #1 easier (i.e. pull plastic part off smaller groups of pins instead of all at once) or just do it for every pin and then desolder one pin at a time. Once you have pins separate, desoldering should be easy. Those pads are extra large and are unlikely to be damaged/lifted by desoldering. Be sure to use lots of desoldering braid/wick to clean up afterwards and don't forget to check you didn't create any shorts.

The low-power LCD backlight draws 25mA. High-power LCD backlights can draw up to 280mA. The only real difference is making sure your power supply can cope with extra power. If you still want to use a 500mA 12V DC adapter, you would need to turn the brightness down, i.e. keep the backlight current draw to 100mA or less. Yet another reason I changed the brightness trimpot to 50K (on the MIDIbox Core schem it's 10K) and allowed the backlight to be supplied from input power and not the 5V supply after the 7805 voltage regulator (keeping backlight current out of the regulator and reducing the amount of heat that would need dissipating). If you're using a 1000mA 12V regulated DC adapter, there's absolutely no difference, you can crank up the brightness to max.

Silicone isn't conductive.

An unregulated walwart will work fine too. You only really need regulated if you want to use 6581 SIDs. For 6582A SIDs, a 12V 500mA unregulated DC supply will work. I found it hard to believe that you can't get a regulated walwart in Toronto.... Try here: http://www.a1parts.com It's incredibly likely they have silicone heatsink compound in the store... what place sells heatsinks and ICs and not the goo that goes between? ;)

I only did that on my MB-6582 to fill the gap. On the SEQ it's not required... the LCD can be mounted as close to the panel as possible. That's probably preferable IMHO... it would look the same as nearly all the MB-SEQ V3 based on TK's original.

Congratulations on finishing two... and they look awesome. I really like your customizations on both the panels... it reminds me of d2k's MB-SID which was the original inspiration for my MB-6582 panel design: http://midibox.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2900 LCD freezing: this might be similar to the freezing that fussylizard noticed on the Optrex STEP 2x40 LCD... that if R12 was used, it might cause the display to be unreliable. I've also noticed occasional weirdness with an Optrex STEP 2x20 LCD connected to a sammichSID which was working perfectly with other LCDs. I'm still not sure if it's R12 that causes the problem or incorrect/insufficient backlight power supply. If you want to try taking out R12 on the MB-6582 base PCB, it's labelled R12_CORE1 and it's under the PIC, inside the IC socket. It should be totally safe to remove, the LCD and Banksticks should still work.. it's easier to cut it in half and desolder each half separately than take it out whole.

The "cavity" on the back of the panel, around the edge of the LCD window cutout, is 1.5mm deep, and this matches the 1.5mm "cavity" around the edge of the clear acrylic window part. Since both are 3mm thick, they fit together so they are flush on both sides. You can make it cheaper by leaving out the cavity on the back of the panel and then just not using the acrylic window or getting the acrylic window laser cut to snap-fit into the cutout. I don't really understand what you mean by "Also I see the plastic panel has no windows at all". The acrylic window FPD should have a cavity on the top, making a 1.5mm square bevel edge that will match the same bevel edge on the panel.

It's good to see people are doing nice paint jobs, better than mine... I was worried that people would have trouble with this. You can touch-up the paint quite easily with a very fine brush (size 000 or smaller?) and then scraping away the dried excess with a craft knife, the matte surface doesn't get marked with light scraping, but it will get scratched by a knife point, so be careful.