latigid on

6mm switches (4.5/6.5mm lead spacing) are now implemented with a 1.5 1.6mm vertical offset relative to the D6s. Any others? Prog. and Tempo labels reinstated.

TK. asked me to rework the PCB, so after a bit of down time on a delayed train: It's the same basic layout as before, except that the shift registers are on board. This means only a single ribbon connector to the Core is needed = easy wiring. or could we feature-creep an LCD/OLED in? Accordingly there are some pullup/current limiting resistors added, but the 595 should be able to sink the cathode rows without transistors. 3* SOIC16 chips, 3 1206 caps, very easy to solder! The remainder is THT. OCD dummy resistor package if you want it to look more symmetrical Expansion header e.g. for DOUT gates etc. I adjusted a few labels, like changing Tempo to BPM to be more consistent with the SEQ, Program is spelled out fully it's progression isn't it? and Record modes are factorised. More mounting holes. Switches are the D6 type because: reasonably priced readily available multiple colours (and shapes like square and flat round) possible high quality, they still work well in a project I started 10 years ago It might be possible to add another switch footprint, so tell me if there's a particular switch you'd like to use and I'll see what I can do. I won't consider the TL1100 series because they exhibit serious problems with reliability after a year or two. As long as there's interest I'm happy to do a PCB run.

How about "Rude" as in Mackie's Rude Solo lamp? Maybe this mode could be implemented as a new parameter layer, which would give control over each step. If one step in a Rude# buss has a higher value its Gate will take priority.

Suggest to keep the detents, you have a good amount of off-axis torque on the large wheel. I think smooth encoders work well on more "analogue" controls, like the MB-6582. For incremental changes (low resolution, high precision needed for e.g. sequence lengths) stepped is much better.

I would hazard a guess that the caps are 20% or worse tolerance anyway? Have a go I say.

Hello, I used the recommended cutout size of 2mm, so your suggestion might fit (very snugly). The spec looks very similar, and the pricing is fair for low quantities. Drawbacks are that It's not specifically a reverse-mount LED and the lack of rear marking would make soldering them more tedious/error prone. They're also untested, but likely the same LED die. I still need to look at wholesale pricing, probably from China in full reels. For a bulk order I might be able to offer them at 10c each.

Looks like a really nice setup! Also good work on the BLM reimagination.

Meine Programmierfaehigkeiten sind schlimmer als mein Deutsch! Aber ich glaube, dass du solltest eine Metaevent modifizieren. Dann man kann ins Editorprogramm die Taster und Event verbinden.

A real bible! Thanks so much for your considerable efforts!

As far as I know, there's no circuit diagram for the SEQ PCB, but you could trace the layout pretty easily. Are you familiar with the concept though? A button matrix scans inputs via DIN and sends pulses on the DOUT chain to close the circuit. It's not high-level programming, but you could load up MB_NG and define a button matrix to test the concept. @Sauraen just made a CS for his SEGA Genesis build, perhaps he has some advice.

It's clear -- you need the threaded bushing in order to panel mount the datawheel encoder, in Wilba's case mounted to the PCB. I forgot you were using STEC encoders. It's no problem with voti or others. In this case Hawkeye's suggesting of filing down the shaft is probably the easiest. With the perfboard idea, I think it might be a bit unstable n'est-ce pas?

Question: did you "panel mount" the encoder to the rear of the PCB, bending the legs up to solder (or fly wired)? That's a good way to get the shaft length down. For mine it made the shaft a little too short (so the wheel scraped on the panel) but I spaced it with a bit of plastic in the D mounting hole.

Ah, maybe it's okay (didn't have the SEQ connected to anything)! I don't often use transpose myself, will have to look more closely. Best,

Cool update! But it seems that GP 13 or 14 can erroneously change the octave in some scales and keys (e.g. Root: C; 1: Harmonic minor, 11: Octatonic...?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charlieplexing Wie TK hat gesagt, die DOUT Pins koennen ,,sink and source''. http://www.ucapps.de/mios_c_set_dout.html Baust du eine MIDIbox_NG?

I would consider moving the group of traces on the right hand side away from the edge of the board. Also the trace width seems kind of small? 6mil? I would go with 10mil minimum, but use 16mil if possible. Power traces even thicker. You can save a few header pins (and slightly move apart) the Banksticks by "preconfiguring" them with address pins connected to ground or +5V.

Cool boards! For the Core+SID, maybe check a few clearances: bottom left mounting hole + J5 header (header may be more convenient as a 2*5, or even 2* 2*5 as is done in the Core8. But I see there's not much space) LCD and CAN headers trimmer pot on the left might be too close to the board edge, normally they don't like holes/plating near to the the milling cutter. (Shouldn't there be two pots, one for brightness and one for contrast?) I would put the voltage regulators at the edge of the board, this way they're easier to heatsink if needed and they radiate heat away from the SIDs/capacitors etc. Is there a reason for two bridge rectifiers? Have you thought about the grounding scheme around the SIDs? I know the MB-6582 board has a gap in the ground plane, presumably to keep the digital noise off the audio circuits. You can check the sammichSID layout for inspiration, although it's a little bigger than your 10*10cm.

To reiterate; when using Windows each time the Core resets you need to restart MIOS Studio to properly "sync" the USB-MIDI connection. It's annoying, especially because you have to click through an additional dialogue window asking if changes to the computer are permissible.

Can you get back to the bootloader by pressing (and holding) the blue button? http://www.ucapps.de/mios32_bootstrap_newbies.html Bootloader mode is enforced as long as the blue button is down. I got confused about this a little while ago; you can then upload the bootloader hex file, thereafter you don't need to hold the button any more. Now you have a stable USB-MIDI connection and you can upload your application of choice. I'm not sure if re-uploading the bootloader hex is actually needed...? but it can't hurt.

Just had to fiddle with this the other day :). Install the bootloader hex, that's where you store LCD settings. Note: if you've already bootstrapped your Core the normal MIDI-USB works fine. On Windows you have to restart MIOS Studio every time the F4 board resets. And don't forget to "store" the settings when done.

2.048 is correct. After the op amps you should get to 10.67V max. Check also your power supply to these. Maybe post a photo of your setup/soldering too.

Are you using the bipolar mode? There's a known issue with equal divider resistors.