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Tayda 16mm pots? Not sure if they have 2M. http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/rotary-potentiometer.html You can get 9mm horizontal, they call the other one (vertical) right angle. http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/alpha-single-gang-9mm-pc-mount/ For most robustness and ergonomics, take larger pots with ~20-30mm spacing between. Just because you can stack a lot of knobs/jacks together doesn't mean you should (harder to tweak).

I think TK. is pretty busy at the moment...

@Phat You're right, I don't think it will work, sorry about that.

Agreed, bent resistors suck, but you can place a 1206 in the same footprint. Look at this network from the same series: Might be interesting.

10k https://www.conrad.de/de/widerstandsnetzwerk-10-k-smd-4816-112-w-2-100-ppmc-bourns-4816p-2-103lf-1-st-1055290.html

Very difficult to solder! 4 resistors in 1206 package! I try to keep all of my SMT in 1206 and SOIC wherever possible. This makes it the most accessible for newbs. https://www.conrad.de/de/widerstandsnetzwerk-100-smd-4816-112-w-2-100-ppmc-bourns-4816p-1-101lf-1-st-1055286.html Is a resistor network with 2% tolerance, the package size is "small outline medium" with the same pitch as SOIC. More values available elsewhere (e.g. Mouser).

Also doesn't work as described on my unit. Can we think of a different way that will work? Like Shift+Alt changes the extra row or column into a octave select? Or the idea in the feature request thread of using a slider. Even something like "hold Shift and move Slider 1 to change the currently viewed octave (jump behaviour, centre of slider = C3?). As long as Shift is held the extra column will illuminate to indicate the current window." Because height = 16 buttons, there could be an overlap of notes, but I think it's most intuitive to maintain the current scale for the selected track. TK. mentioned he doesn't want the BLM to rely on optional sliders, but I've never seen another in operation, and if anyone comes up with a different design they should certainly include sliders or pots!

I think this is the main reason why design files aren't generally included on uCapps. Are you referring to chip packages like 74HC595/165 etc.? Or more complete blocks? In EAGLE they introduced basic hierarchical design in the schematic editor, and now there's finally a way to clone repeated parts of layouts, even with routed traces. But in my experience, there's not a lot to be gained from having pre-existing blocks because every design has its own unique requirements. It's better to start with something very modular/flexible that can be reused in different situations. Ten or even five years ago, pro PCBs were much less accessible. From a DIY perspective, it was quite necessary to have layouts in order to mask, etch and drill boards, and that's why you'll see quite a few are single sided with jumper wires. The circuits themselves are very simple, perhaps reflecting this limitation. Now with an EAGLE .brd file, anybody can generate gerbers or even send it directly to the fab. To me (again with a cynical view) that this is less about DIY and more an impact of our insta-gratification culture. Funnily enough, the Core carrier board isn't much more complicated than a DOUT, but it does represent time and effort spent by Tim/Smash TV, not to mention TK. who probably did the pin assignments in the first place.

Having spent many hundreds of hours on EAGLE, it's my go-to now. I can't attest to any of the functionality of KiCAD, but if it's the right style for you then go for it. Freeware EAGLE is fine for smaller 2-layer boards and has a tonne of parts that I haven't yet encountered errors on. You really have to go deep into making new packages though, and the interface and workflow leaves something to be desired. Once that learning curve is crossed it makes a lot more sense. For larger PCBs you need to think about one of the paid versions. I wish there was an intermediate pricing between the hobby and pro versions, but such is life. Normally when I design things for MIDIbox I have the related schematics open on browser tabs. This way I try to maintain pin compatibility and functionality with the existing hardware whenever possible. On the subject of "where are the PCB designs?" I'm currently in two minds about this. People who haven't gone through the process generally don't have a grasp of the time, energy and cost involved. Not only learning about (and perhaps paying for) the software, but all the research that goes into good design and getting the circuit to function, which after meticulous planning often requires a few board revisions. By no means am I accusing anyone here of having bad intentions, but I've seen numerous examples of people taking advantage of others' goodwill. The MIDIbox SID has been a source of controversy in the past, with many unauthorised clones being built and sold. Also take a look at Mutable Instruments, where Olivier Gillet graciously shares all software and hardware under CC-by-SA. Some smell an opportunity and simply upload the gerbers to make a tidy resale profit for the minimal effort of a few emails and distributed shipping. The accessibility of professional PCBs has increased dramatically, mostly due to batching services that mean you can order as few as five (or less) at a time. IMO (and perhaps I'm a bit cynical) is that many of the people asking for design files have no intention of making derivative works (i.e. improvements in the sense of Creative Commons), but simply want the lower cost boards from China. As a designer and builder, I'd much prefer if people bought things via me as a means of supporting my work. With an online repository of design files, there's no separating the good and bad intentions. In saying that, how do you put a value on the incredible software developed by (mostly) TK. and provided freely? Is it right for me to withhold designs for hardware I've tailored to his software projects, schematic fundamentals like SRIO chains etc., or prototype concepts like the MBProgramma of Hawkeye/jojjelito? I think that if I definitely knew I wouldn't have to rely on sales of hardware in this strange world where work isn't guaranteed -- and also that people had genuine intent to learn and improve upon others' work rather than taking the cheapest route to the bottom -- I would certainly be more comfortable with fully open sourced hardware. I'm still working on the answer to that :). Sorry for the rant, and best of luck with KiCAD!

Hello, For CV scaling, yep it works well at least on the analogue side (haven't tried reading into the Core as yet) with the schematic given. Sorry about the size. So, first op amp is TL072 (or 074), 100k input resistors, 59k feedback (gain = -0.59). Other resistors are 100k and the second op amp is 6002/4 powered from 3v3 and 0v (ground). With the jumpers down you add +5V offset to scale +/-5V to 10V. If you have 0-10V input (also = +/-5 + 5V) you close the top jumpers which applies a gain of -0.5 on the second stage. Of course you can skip the jumpers and just configure what you need, this is more flexible for a variety of inputs. At the moment I'm redesigning the PCBs for AIN and AOUT, and also a carrier board for 3.5mm sockets. Basically the same layouts as before but smaller and with less bugs ;). For your drum modules: always cool to see, but many of these have PCBs available already e.g: http://www.falafular.org/modules/ http://www.hexinverter.net/pcb-projects/ These are known to work, so might save some time and money. For a "bit bashing" register-based AOUT, see AOUT_LC on uCapps.de MB808 runs on Core8.

Unless you've soldered something wrong or you have a grounding issue (switching power supply and non-earthed mains sockets?) it's unlikely to be a problem with the sammich itself. Is the behaviour fine once everything is started? (Can you turn on and then plug in?) Can you monitor the MIDI data using MIOS studio on startup?

http://www.ucapps.de/mios_bootstrap_experts.html http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/pickit_dip40_adapter_board.pdf For the 16F: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_burner_16f88_adapter.pdf

Hi, the most obvious problem is that you have a MIDI loop configured (e.g. from your DAW or other hardware). Check your settings to ensure that the MIDI events being sent by the sammich are not forwarded back to it by the next device. If it's not that, then we need more info on your setup, a photo etc.

Always nice to see the BLM in action :)

Strange LCD issue. Anything to do with the voltage selector? On another note: If anyone has working/semi-working MBCV v2s, perhaps you'd like to contribute to the discussion of my prototype control surface here? We need more input on the best way to implement voice and menu structures. Thanks!

I have a concept and PCBs for scaling CVs The circuit isn't exactly the same as it uses a rail to rail op amp instead of clamping diodes and the offset is a precision +5V source. I have it built up but I think it needs troubleshooting. Maybe I can have a go today. For your other points: I don;t think the zeroscope is not quite released yet, and I suppose it will be in the form of PCBs. Trouble with I2C chips is that these data lines are normally reserved for MIDI outputs, but it could work for a custom application. In other words, it would be great to have common modular blocks that are usable across several applications (like MBCV). For mounting OLEDs, you might be interested in this:

This is for MBCV v2, which I'm working on with TK. (when he has time). What's happening is the digital waveforms are visualised on the scopes in parallel with the analogue output. Audio inputs will need amplification, but modular levels need attenuation/limiting and offsetting. You can't feed over- or negative voltages into the Core IO pin. (3.0V nominal peak voltage btw.) This type of ADC is probably only useful for slow-ish waveforms. The accuracy (jitter) is reportedly better for AINSER, but at a cost of slower transfer rates as the digitised signal runs over SPI if I recall properly. I'm wondering if a proper ADC is a better solution, we can maybe look at some of Olivier's (Mutable Instruments) designs. So at the moment, ADC for the Core is a concept rather than a proven solution. Similar things are being developed elsewhere though https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=157649

Very nice! Next time with a headmounted GoPro! What's that you're tweaking just underneath the mixer? Best,

You can even use the second MIDIbox as an interface for the first, you'll just have to configure a MIDI router in software. Otherwise you might have to get your screwdriver out and enforce the bootloader with the blue button.

Could you try to upload this one (F4 variant) and the SEQ app thereafter? http://www.ucapps.de/mios32/mios32_bootloader_v1_018.zip

BTW, was the SEQ functioning properly when you bought it?

What operating system are you using? The standard MIDI drivers of Win10 didn't work for me but some kludging with the GM5 MIDI driver seemed to help. What MIDI interface are you using? It might be on the blacklist (check MIDIbox dokuwiki). DIN MIDI goes much slower compared to the USB version. It could be that the bootloader is corrupted?? Do you get a valid MIDI over USB connection when holding down the blue button at power on/reset? Both the Newbie and Expert info pages are useful: http://www.ucapps.de/mios32_bootstrap_newbies.html http://www.ucapps.de/mios32_bootstrap_experts.html I'd suggest checking to see if the bootloader can be accessed, if not it can be re-flashed with ST-link. You might play around with updated MIDI drivers: http://www.ucapps.de/gm5/midibox.org_gm5_X64_1.0.10.zip (assuming a 64-bit OS).

This is a SEQ V3 owing to the PIC Core and banksticks. I would suggest that you start from the cost price of the parts and go down from there. It's also a good idea to list your location for currency/shipping estimates. Or, grab a new Core module and an AOUT and go nuts with your Eurorack. The SEQ kicks serious ass in modular land.

If you look at the schematic, the LEDs are arranged in a 16*16 matrix. Anode columns are driven by DOUT pulses on SR3+4, while cathode rows are sunk by SR1+2. All cathodes of each LED ring are connected to one DOUT pin (it's serving as a path to ground). Similarly, all anodes of ring(n) LED(x) are connected, so every ring(n) LED1 is connected, every ring(n) LED2 etc. If there are any shorts to ground (e.g. if you scratch and bridge to the soldermask while installing an LED) then you can get unintended lighting.

Did you revert the sink mask (the driver chips invert the switching polarity)?