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Great setup #39!

Hi Simon and a happy new year to you too! We try to keep track of the "successfully built" SEQ v4+s in this thread, so I don't think you got a serial number yet as you were posting in the "troubleshooting" thread? Happy to assign you #39 if you want to post a pic here? Best, Andy

Hi, What meters do you have? Some have a "high-res" function that is activated by holding the backlight button (Fluke meters). Another option is to buy resistors with better tolerance (e.g. 0.1%) but they will be more expensive. In the end, the CV is calibrated on the SEQ and has a variable gain with the first op amp stage. So you should be fine. For more than eight outputs, simply chain the J19 data from the superDAC board. RC1 should still be set for all DACs. Best of luck and happy new year! Best, Andy

Great job, especially the labelled buttons are a really nice touch! Formlabs printer or something else? I guess the aspect ratio/height is enough to print them vertically rather than rotated? Anyway, cool journey and enjoy the SEQ!

For time-multiplexed LEDs you can exceed the 20mA current rating or whatever the datasheet says. Some even give a peak current rating that is valid for a given duty cycle (normally 10% rather than our 12.5 or so) and pulse time. Totally depends on your LEDs. A tip is to use super bright ones, but probably you already have something installed. In the SEQ v4+ we use 47R but these are superflux RGB LEDs designed for more forward current. Generally the higher the pulse energy, the lower the lifetime of the LED. Keep in mind that the 74HC595 outputs are overdriven in this configuration. Your +5V rail will sag and in the worse case it won't be enough to power the PIC properly. But many MIDIboxes work fine like this :).

LoopA is good for unquantised recording :)

Nonstandard sure, it should work or at least shouldn't damage anything. Electrically there is no difference between USB A and B connectors. USB AB cables are much more common but it does look like you can find BB.

If you can find the right size, I would suggest to use a white OLED and whatever gel/acrylic to make the colour you're interested in.

Probably 595 gates are better, especially if some wrong voltage gets in there you'll only blow up the 595 and not the whole MCU :). I suggest to put a resistor (e.g. 1k/4k7) at least on the output.

Maybe a dedicated 595 chip is needed (no matrix), otherwise your gate signal would have a 1/8 duty cycle? Or I guess I misunderstand: you use the DIOMATRIX as a simple DINX2 DOUTX2.

Yep, this is how AOUT modules work! For the switchable solution I developed quad-channel THT boards, should still have some available if you are interested. Otherwise: op amp with gain, two inverting amps in series, second with switchable gain also as a summing node (offset for bipolar CV).

Well done #38! Might be a record :-) Best, Andy

Really great work! Compliments to the sound engineer(s) too!

Chapeau! Congrats to #37! Enjoy your new machine!

No idea about your error, I know some people have trouble formatting and the trick is usually to use another computer (Windows) or so. Why not create a verified SD card on your side and ship that to the customer? If it doesn't work, then if must be a hardware issue (e.g. SD socket soldered too hot).

Sure, all parts and ports are compatible. You can also use a wCore if you prefer to breakout your SD card and LEDs to the rear panel, otherwise the DISCO core should work without requiring RES-SD. The wCore J16E header is a combination of J16 plus the LEDs on the DISCO board plus reset. Just as you wrote The I2C header is 1:1 pinned with the corresponding I2C header on the Core. So it is more convenient to wire up. You can of course go for 8x I2C outs with the firmware "hack", but this was not implemented in the midiphy SEQ v4+ on TK.'s recommendation. Still, it was shown to work in at least one case, so if you feel it is worth it, go for it! Basically the same Yes, all fine, AOUT (not AOUT_NG) in the SEQ config. There are schematics on the wiki but all was designed to be 1:1 pinned with existing boards. The I2C modules can theoretically connect analogue inputs and the ADCs are quite decent. So these headers are used to connect the AINs. In practice there is nothing in the software to scan them, so the headers should remain unpopulated unless you plan to write I2C drivers/modify the app. Greetings, Andy

Phat!

It doesn't! Maybe you should put all of your questions in one topic rather than making one topic per question?

Probably MABPM 5S. DIN sockets are quite standard -- no surprise :) To be extra careful, measure the distance between pins at the edge of the PCB. Should be 10mm but there are two standards, hence both can be used on the PCB (two pairs of holes).

I have the same "IDC crimping tool" but favour simply using a bench vise. For micromatch MOW cables I leave the polarising tab outside and it works well for me. If you have different tools that work for you, all good! As far as testing other cable types go, there is a plan to build a "backpack"/"shield" that spans across the IDC16s. Then in theory any connector could be wired in. It's a really fun project to build and you can see it working straight away. :)

Hi Alistair, Generally I would only populate parts where there is a silkscreen indicator. This is certainly a double-sided board and the Core is quite a basic circuit, so you won't need any jumpers I am 99% sure. All pin headers seem to be indicated with a J prefix. Any plated holes that don't have a corresponding silkscreen mark are probably vias that join the top and bottom copper planes. You will probably be able to see the copper tracks leading to the vias from the difference in colour. Or if there is no track, the via connects to a 0V/ground plane But yes, it is harder to make out with black solder mask! If you are unsure, put your multimeter in continuity test mode (or resistance) and check the electrical connections. Best, Andy

I can't access your google drive. You can upload images here but the size should be less than 2MB and certain extensions (tiff I think) don't work. PNG/JPEG should be fine. If it has green soldermask and visible traces/copper on both layers I am pretty sure you don't need bridges.

Is it a two-layer board with green soldermask? Then no bridges are required. If it is a single-layer board, find the "quickview" or .brd file on uCapps. Probably the red wires represent the top bridges, with blue as the bottom layer already patterned on the copper side. Feel free to post a picture of your board here to check.

Just post here! I think you would make great friends with Mr. @ssp :)

Here you go! http://ucapps.de/midibox_ng_manual_fs.html Have fun!