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Altitude

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Everything posted by Altitude

  1. Altitude
    Does the sammich run in 4 or 8 bit mode? Newhaven OLEDs dont like the 4bit midibox implementation
  2. Altitude
    why not use counter sunk flat head screws. Those will be flush with the panel and you're still doing all the work on the front of the panel
  3. Altitude
    Peter, Will do. I DO have 8 bit core's (albeit old ones) and PICs on hand so I very well may take you up on that. I know what paper work is needed to get things through the Deutsches Customs and seeing that Noritake has 150 of these parts @ $18 each at their local office (to me) it may be well worth it for more than just me
  4. Altitude
    thanks for the input. I'll go over the data sheets and see if I can find the difference. should I just comment out the "switch to 4bit mode" commands to go into 8 bit mode? also, with the nops, should I start here? "function which toggles the strobe line USER_LCD_Strobe_Toggle nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop rcall USER_LCD_Strobe_Set nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop rcall USER_LCD_Strobe_Clr return ;; ========================================================================== " ps. I know all about German custom's "eccentricities" I've had my monotribe midi kits sit in customs for 6 weeks before being delivered and had some even returned (7 months later)
  5. Altitude
    Ok, Problems. Recompiled the hex and I just get a couple of dots. I gave the wrong part number though, its a CU20045-UW5A, these are older parts but Noritake is selling them for $18 at their store in Illinois so I couldn't resist. When in 4 bit mode could having the pins that are normally not used cause a problem? http://noritake-vfd.com/cu20045-uw5a.aspx http://www.8051projects.net/files/public/1338569803_38288_FT0_c20045-uw5a_adatlap.pdf I have a spare one of these with your name on it if you have nothing better to do ;)
  6. Altitude
    yes! That's where it's headed. Thanks for the documentation, will go over it and report back
  7. Altitude
    So I got these wonderful displays in and unfortunately the documentation is sparse and this is my first outing with these so I'm a bit lost. Can anyone shed some light on how to get these up and running? http://www.8051projects.net/files/public/1338569803_38288_FT0_c20045-uw5a_adatlap.pdf
  8. Altitude
    here is how I do my back panels. I find it much easier to mount the board directly to the backpanel using the the midi sockets that have three holes as brackets. Trying to use standoffs and align things on 3 different planes is a bit too fiddly IMHO. I have the layouts for the STM32 and LPC but not the new one. Also the SD card holder I like and the 4xIIC midi
  9. Altitude
    Oh, I see. You're using the panel with all the work on the back.. You do realize that almost triples the price? You can do counter sunk through holes for the standoffs and and no counter bore for the displays and you'll be back where I am price wise. Here is what one of mine looked like with laser cut windows and through holes for the stand offs (same as what Julien is offering if I am not mistaken)
  10. Altitude
    wow. I'll be watching this closely
  11. Altitude
    170 euro sounds really steep for the front panel, front panel express charged $180 to do my whole case (front and back panels) so you might want to shop around a bit. In single quantities, the FPD software has the front panel @ $115 usd which is 85 euro. Not sure why yours is twice as much *edit OK, I see where you went wrong. DO NOT get CNC windows made, that's where your problem is. Get them laser cut, I can get 16 windows for a SEQ on the formular/ponoko A size (the smallest) for $15, on a bigger size it would be even less. I have the template if you want it (I use the same size for my Ambika builds) Schaeffer/Front panel express are premium services and there are MANY different options out there. Your Frontpanels.de guys sound like they are competitive, but I still dont get where that price comes from it's twice what it should be. First person I would talk to is Julian (thebeast), he's an insider here and I am sure with a big job, he could beat out commercial places price wise
  12. Altitude
    woah, those PCB mount ones look pretty sweet for $22. Thin as an OLED Not to mention these: https://noritake-vfd.com/cu20045-uw5a.aspx or the fact that the 40x2s are $45 new at that site
  13. Altitude
    this is how you do the parasitic midi power btw: http://www.colinfraser.com/m2d/m2d2m.pdf
  14. Altitude
    Honestly, beyond using as the feedback loop, I've never really seen anything cool done with it
  15. Altitude
    ^ Nice, missed that thread.
  16. Altitude
    yeah, the SD card is located in a spot that it would interfere if you dont cut it off
  17. Altitude
    Are you running the OLED in 4bit Mode?
  18. Altitude
    I'm with ilmenator on this one. You cant beat laser cut acrylic for the cost/result ratio. There are several ways of doing it so it would be time well spent looking around on how people make them. With the laser, it's always time that you pay for, the actual material is very cheap so how you lay it out makes a HUGE difference in price. 3D printing sounds cool but I've seen what the results look like from the Makerbot type lower end machines and it's crude at best. I've also seen the results out of a Stratasys machine and that's a different story but that's not 10 euro an hour
  19. Altitude
    you're also going to need standoffs. I use M3x0.5 threaded, 10mm long screws for the corner supports. I'll try to document the case in the wiki in the next couple of weeks but time is at a premium these days unfortunately
  20. Altitude
    ^ My case
  21. Altitude
    Still open? Need 50 clear
  22. Altitude
    Yeah, those look very similar. The only high current one you will probably need is the 5V one. The traco will be drop replacements for the 78XX
  23. Altitude
    Just use switching regulators for the 5 and 9V. I use Recom. I built a MB6582 with +5, +9, +12 all off a 1.5A 15V DC adapter
  24. Altitude
    I use a 4 channel stereo mixer (MAM SLE82) works like a dream. I'm sure that there a DIY ways but that with a 4xTRS to 8xTS snake worked out well for me and cost less than $100
  25. Altitude
    Done! Works and clears the metal bezel tabs. You could us right angle headers for a thinner profile
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