Sasha

I will check my C64 in the basement and if I have that transistor I will send it to you NP. I use just cases, plugs and SIDs. ;) ...and watchout your girlfriend. I have same problems explaining my mother that not all junk is junk. And after lot of years she understands. 8)

So they are not usefull as a clipping indicator eather. I was more concerned about CPU usage. OK than, I better avoid them. I was more interested how people usualy map F`s particulary with Live. I wish to engrave their functions in panel, and not keep F1, F2... Do I have to make some customisation in code for that, because I didn`t find enabling that option in code? I wouldn`t give little finger but I still like them more than 2x40:) It must be custom made especially for original LC because I have never seen them. I will use just 2 x 2x40 but still I dont like them to stick out especially if they are empty. :-\ I really like how Axel`s 2x24 LCDs looks like. Everything is aligned perfectly. I tought I can have same visual efect covering the unused part of 2x40 LCD. Do you advise that? Do you use that part for something Doc?

I want to start planning Ableton Live 6 controler based on Mackie Control emulation. I need some advices and tips from Live-LC users, so I could start planning and drawing Live CS. 1. How is LC supported in Live 6 bacause it is not Lives native controller but I see it is in Lives Control Surface list in V6? 2. Can you jog precisely trough song in arangement view? I couldn`t achive it with KORG MicroControls encoders :( I read level meters could eat some presious CPU power, but what about clipping LED somebody mentioned? How is the CPU usage in that case? 3. What should be configured for clipping LEDs? 4. Do I just use last LED of meter on pin 28 SR#4 for clipping indication? 5. What functions is good to map to F1-F8 buttons? 6. How meny LCD caracters belongs to each coresponding section? 8? 7. Do I need the rest of the LCD screen? If not I would like to cut the slot in panel showing only used LCDs section characters. Original Mackie Control have 55 visible characters. I hope you understand what I am triing to say. Anny addvice and tip is wellcome. ;) Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the explanation. I might consider buying it. And what about green laquire? I think it is aplied using screenprinting technique, but if it can be found in spray, maybe it could be sprayed over soldered board. Somebody have some experience with it?

Looking great, but what is the real use of tinning? As far as I know It is easier to solder if the bord sits too long because there is no oxide on it. But, if you solder components right after making PCB, dirty copper surface after long time is not a problem, right?

I get home late tonight so I didn`t needed chloroform to fall asleap. I haven`t got chance to do all experiments but I do manage to melt acrylic. It seams it needs much more chloroform than acrylic. I does that earlier in smaller quantity so it wasnt noticable that much. Today I`ll glue a piece of acrylic on the ABS and, if it dries, I`l try to sand it down to see how smooth transition I can get. Too bad I don`t have a camera at hand, still waiting for my Canon S3IS ;) Should come till the end of the week. I have few roling projects I`d like to document. Hear you

Is is hardly posible. Try to turn your mouse upside-down and you will see there is nothing to support the ball at the right position. Also, ball is too samall. I am implementing Genius optical trackball into the controler I am building with my friend. It is very compact and easy to integrate. Strongly recomendations. It dont worth a hassle for 20-30 EUR.

I done that last night, and today I stubbed on this post and wonderfull Jorge`s C64 mod. That cutout looked to me like good braking guide. I was right. After braking it out with pliers I filed it a bit and sanded. I need more room for keyboard I want to put i C64 Case but hole where was the groove is little bigger than I need. After I read how Jorge (my new idol) did it I am going to try the chloroform technique. I used chloroform for melting acrylic for making acrylic glue, but I never tought I could mix acrylic with C64 ABS case. I had idea of plugging the holes with fiberglass, but I dont like that material for fine job like this (dirty, sticky..) Now, I cant wait to try choloform melted acrylic. :D. I know the result could be great. I don`t need the original C64 colour so I will glue anny colour of acrylic I have at hand, but first I need to lasercut/engrave it. I strongly advise laser cutting/engraving for anny MB project since it will cut the cost down alot! And every expres stamp making service have laser machine. Cutting subpanel and pannel + engraving pannel for my Traktor controller (http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=7008.0) costed me just 12 EUR! (without material - Rowmark Texture Black: http://www.rowmark.com/laser/Textures/textures.asp)

This works only if the clips are playing. You cannot focus on nonplaying clips waveform. I tried it at work over PC kayboard but I suposed it is same with MIDI. I don`t understand why do they they made it like this. :(

Nice colour, but I think segmenting lines should also be white.

;D Man, you just made me good lough with this Squeak & Smell subject. I tought you burned down this nice toy. ;)

No sh**? :D That is amazing man!!! I used to throw keyboards away and keaping just SID and case. I`am very inspired by your ideas. Keep on going.

I think you shouldn`t warry about is it low or hi-tech as far as result is ok. If you making one box for yourself it`s not so hard to do it. You apreciate and love your box more at the and if you put some sweat and blood in it. That is so right I would like to have one of thesefor the job. ;)

Nice green panel. To bad step knobs are not same kind as dataweel.

I think there is so meny perplexed information here, so It`s not strange newbies are lost and they are uploading app without bottstrap and MIOS or something. Personally, I still have trouble to find some documents i opened few times before without some digging. You have to scroll trough page to find a link. You know it was somewhere there but... lot of people I talked had trouble navigating the site. Offen it could be difference between success and failure! Sure, it wouldn`t be right to expect TK do boring things like proper menues, submenues and add a new pages. He already have much to wright on project documentation, and it would be great lost of his precious energy and time. It would be better for all of us if he could do just fun stuff. :) I would like to conduct reorganisation (making pages, subpages, menues, making graphics...) of ucapps, based on some kind of docs and organisation scheme provided by TK or somebody else. As you see my english is bad so proper wrighting could be problem for me and i lack of programming knowledge. But I am willing to help. I think it would be really good for all of us, if people could follow some steps. Even some are repeating on every page. For each app should be steps like: 1. upload bootstrap with burner or order preburned PIC 2. upload MIOS using mios studio, upload application using mios studio 3. AIN - analog imputs (pots/faders) could be configured like this... example and this kind of guide. Linking words in page should be only addition not only link to proper page or document. So, it would be nice to have Q/A about configuring every aplication on top of every aplications page so people could easier find right answer without searching meny posts which cannot be always directly related to the problem thay have. I had problems configuring MB64E app for using pots. I couldnt have same setings from my MB64 on MB64E + 2 additionall encoders for Traktor jogs. Language barier could also be the problem finding usefull post. Long time ago I was answered to meke change in the main.asm, but I couldn`t find it because the main.asm exist in avery package. I didn`t know that. If the name of the main.asm for MB64 vas mb64.asm there will be one less stupid question from my side. :-[ Forum could be used more for other than troubleshooting. Sure basic electronic knowledge is essential, but I would never started with this project if I didn`t read "you can do it if you know which is the right side of soldering iron" I was confident after I read that but It took so much time and nervs just to eliminate critical components before i even started (JDM programmer killed me) I am probably heard about PIC here first time in life. I learned alot but still feels like i don`t know a sh** compering to much of people here. Wiki could help, but scettering info could still be confusing to noobies because they read more information than they need to know for the start and they could loose in it. If there is something I could do to help TK, I`m here. I have experience with web but im not one of the best midiboxers here even I`m not new att all. ;)

Hey Bill, your C64 keyboard idea is great! You did nice organisation of the midi channel selection and also octave range with those F buttons. Did you think about painting the keys black & white? It could be lot easier to play and after all you dont need the letters on it annymore.

Nice looking footcontroller. I`ve always wanted to make one but curently I really dont need it since I have more hands than gear to controll :-\

The idea is really good, but since it includes projector it is pretty expensive. Graphics and annimation are very good if you ask me.

OK, I have my SEQ to have fun making it. When this CS and your PCBs be finished i`ll do it. If you need some help with diagrams or drawing when documenting I`l be glad to contribute. ;)

Hay Chris, that is very neat job you have done. Congratulations! Really great, and clean PCBs. Could you publish your design somewhere? I would like to make it once you finish it completly. Thx. Sascha

Rigo, your buttons looks really great. What kind of LEDs did you used, superbright? I don`t think mounting buttons on the stripeboard is good idea, eapecially with that cutout for switch. There is not much of board left between those holes. Aluminum is much cheaper and stronger. I also dont find stripeboard perfect for drilling because you are forced to start drilling in one of the holes. Sometimes is needed to have hole between those two holes. Annyway, what have you done looks really great. Congratulations!

macsurfer, what for are you gonna use this box?

That is great to hear Thorsten! :D It is really good to have BPM display visible all the time. I can`t wait for V3. What about these posibilities with 18F452? I already have finished 3 core modules with this PIC. Can I have these options on SEQ V2? If play/pouse LEDs cannot be done by software I am going to make it with some external toggle circuit. What about using MIDImon for BPM monitor? How to connent displays and how to configure it to show BPM?

Thanks Mox, I like your sequencer very much. Interesting panel design, not so simple as mine, but mine is simple as I am restricted to 2 colours because of sandwich laser material I am going to use again for my panel. I will stick to V2 design since V3 is not documented yet. I`m not an expert. :-\ When I make V2 works I will see what and how can I do better in V3. Minimal order for 40x2 displays was 6 pieces so I`ve got enough left for second (V3) sequencer later. ...and, what about my questions, do you know an answer? Thanks in advance

I am finishing designing MB SEQ front panel. Everything is almost finished, but I need few ansvers to add or exclude some things in my design. All modules are finished, I just need to solder the wires and cut/engrave the panel (laser cutter again) :) I would like to add two more status LEDs in my design - play LED and pouse LED (I am planing to use blinking LED for pouse). 1. Can I do it and what exactly should change? I liked idea of integrated LED BPM display I saw on D2k's MB SEQ interpretation. I know it is MIDImon but since it only uses 3 LED displays I`m not sure how to connect it. (D2k's never ansvered me) 2. Is it last or first 3 displays of MIDImon showing BPM? This is how it is going to look like, colours might be different. Step buttons will also going be backlighted with coresponding LEDs. Superbright LEDs drived by ULN2803 will be behind lasercut/engraved acrylic buttons - looks great. I used TR909, if you like some cool techno font please let me know. I am always in search for some gear fonts. ;)