latigid on

Thanks, I did read this. I have a slightly different use-case perhaps as I will use an STM-32 core with a Seppoman MBETH module. So, an internal ethernet cable for me then! Maybe I can extend the antenna outside ;)

I was pondering over the weekend whether it would be possible to convert the OSC/ethernet signal the SEQ generates directly to wireless. If I ever go down the tablet route, I would like to avoid cables completely. So from what I read, it seems like the thing to do would be to basically mount a WiFi router inside the case. I have seen some fairly cheap PCBs which fit this purpose. Am I crazy or is this feasible? Andy

It could be the light, but try touching up the joints on pins 15 and 16 of the DIL-40 socket. Preferably with the PIC removed! I will sound like nILS, but: offsite doco = bad! Please upload your pictures to the forum.

With no bank stick inserted, the default Rhodes Piano patch is loaded, can you test this?

Do you think it's a problem with the optocoupler? And did you check that you are using the sammichFM config file, not one of the others?

Great, but what if want to order more than 20 PCBs?

From a quick search tonight I couldn't find anything like the DSI case commercially available. Maybe this is not the right idea anyway, as rack-mounted the connectors would be quite cumbersome as they have to stick out of the top when the SEQ is vertically mounted. This could be avoided with a recess, but then we're very much into custom territory with oddly-shaped parts and angles >> cost. From a tip off from Thomann do a 3U black case with 250 mm depth for 51 Euro. Will the people after a 19" case want a traditional square rack or something angled?

50 up, very nice looking boards :)

Ditto, but I wonder if there is already a commercial solution available? I think my ideal case would be something like the DSI Prophet '08 module: With or without wooden sides :) So, still vertical mount with a recess for the rear connectors.

A 19" case would be great if there's one organised. I can use STM or LPC cores.

Safe and sound in CH, many thanks!

I'm keen for an MB-6582 window, if there is one available. Thanks!

My idea was that the wiki gets updated from time to time, probably with a strike through the whole row of the person that just received their kit. If Tim didn't want to do this, perhaps the members can take it upon themselves. With regard to auxiliary bulk orders, I don't think that's a good idea, even if it sounds tempting. As well as Tim's investment into PCBs, parts and time, he has the advantage of large quantity discounts and a knowledge of what's in stock. What if another bulk list was started only to learn that that switch or cap was backordered for six months? Then you'd be in the same position. In saying that I have similar sympathies; I added my name in Feb '10, I have a Beast panel ready to go, LCDs etc. It still seems right to continue on with the original list. Cheers Smash for your efforts! :thumbsup:

Be super careful with mains! Isolate all bare connections by using heatshrink tubing

Probably best to wait for Wilba, but can you measure resistance between your 5V rail and ground?

Does this help at all?:

Hi, this is a diode (non-light emitting). It needs to be placed here to stop multiple rows or columns of switches activating at the same time. Again, bonne chance! Make sure you get somebody to check your PCB layout before you get anything manufactured. Edit: Either by posting here or on the user forum.

That's right, which is why you need "3-leg" LEDs, with either a common cathode or anode. Sometimes they are even called "tri-color" (red/green/orange) but this term can also be confused with RGB LEDs (4-leg). If you wanted to use pre-built tact switches, you could go for the Omron ones: http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron/B3W-9010-RG2N/?qs=sR392Zi6y%2f9CSJ7gat14GQ%3d%3d but they are expensive! I hope that doesn't put you off; you may find a solution in the rubber buttons discussed elsewhere in this subforum.

http://www.sparkfun.com/news/780 Good luck to all MIDIBoxers! Hope you have a spare F5 key; it's gonna be tough out there!

Good luck for your BLM project! How big did you want to make it? One thing you should know is your choice of LED switch will NOT work with the current firmware. ---->|----- |____ | ---->|----- or ---->|----- ____| | ---->|----- will work but ----|<----- ____| |____ | | ---->|----- will not work. You need two distinct LEDs for this application, the third diagram shows two LEDs back to back; you can't light both at once! Edit: clarity

With the hardware BLM, my rough calculations were about $300 with a case, panel, PCB, LEDs and Livid buttons/spacers. So, a wireless BLM for ~$500? + iPad multi-use = win in my book.