latigid on

50 up, very nice looking boards :)

Ditto, but I wonder if there is already a commercial solution available? I think my ideal case would be something like the DSI Prophet '08 module: With or without wooden sides :) So, still vertical mount with a recess for the rear connectors.

A 19" case would be great if there's one organised. I can use STM or LPC cores.

Safe and sound in CH, many thanks!

I'm keen for an MB-6582 window, if there is one available. Thanks!

My idea was that the wiki gets updated from time to time, probably with a strike through the whole row of the person that just received their kit. If Tim didn't want to do this, perhaps the members can take it upon themselves. With regard to auxiliary bulk orders, I don't think that's a good idea, even if it sounds tempting. As well as Tim's investment into PCBs, parts and time, he has the advantage of large quantity discounts and a knowledge of what's in stock. What if another bulk list was started only to learn that that switch or cap was backordered for six months? Then you'd be in the same position. In saying that I have similar sympathies; I added my name in Feb '10, I have a Beast panel ready to go, LCDs etc. It still seems right to continue on with the original list. Cheers Smash for your efforts! :thumbsup:

Be super careful with mains! Isolate all bare connections by using heatshrink tubing

Probably best to wait for Wilba, but can you measure resistance between your 5V rail and ground?

Does this help at all?:

Hi, this is a diode (non-light emitting). It needs to be placed here to stop multiple rows or columns of switches activating at the same time. Again, bonne chance! Make sure you get somebody to check your PCB layout before you get anything manufactured. Edit: Either by posting here or on the user forum.

That's right, which is why you need "3-leg" LEDs, with either a common cathode or anode. Sometimes they are even called "tri-color" (red/green/orange) but this term can also be confused with RGB LEDs (4-leg). If you wanted to use pre-built tact switches, you could go for the Omron ones: http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron/B3W-9010-RG2N/?qs=sR392Zi6y%2f9CSJ7gat14GQ%3d%3d but they are expensive! I hope that doesn't put you off; you may find a solution in the rubber buttons discussed elsewhere in this subforum.

http://www.sparkfun.com/news/780 Good luck to all MIDIBoxers! Hope you have a spare F5 key; it's gonna be tough out there!

Good luck for your BLM project! How big did you want to make it? One thing you should know is your choice of LED switch will NOT work with the current firmware. ---->|----- |____ | ---->|----- or ---->|----- ____| | ---->|----- will work but ----|<----- ____| |____ | | ---->|----- will not work. You need two distinct LEDs for this application, the third diagram shows two LEDs back to back; you can't light both at once! Edit: clarity

With the hardware BLM, my rough calculations were about $300 with a case, panel, PCB, LEDs and Livid buttons/spacers. So, a wireless BLM for ~$500? + iPad multi-use = win in my book.

First one could be a piezo crystal, although I'm not sure of the pinout or part number. You can always combine capacitors to get the right value, depending on the space requirements.

Every man and his cat is after a SEQV4 PCB. Your best bet is to jump on the order list =wilba&s[]=seq]http://midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wilba_mb_seq_pcb_bulk_order&s[]=wilba&s[]=seq ...which I see you're already on. I share your frustrations for having no timelines etc., but you'll just have to be patient. I'm finishing my school project (PhD thesis) and then it'll be a blitz of MIDIBoxes (MB6582, sFM and hopefully SEQV4).

Like this?: :clover:

Does your controller use MIDI, OSC or CV/Gate?

What would be the point? What do Arduino shields do that MIDIBox can't? Is this a pre-fabrication issue again?

:thumbsup: