Leaderboard

I read a lot of guides. Successfully compiled ASM code. The OLED display works well with an 8bit driver. If anyone needs the firmware, here is: setup_sammich_sid_8bit.hex

Hey man. It's actually an FR4-Standard PCB. Non aluminium. But seems pretty robust anyway.

Hi ssp, I don't remember if labels can be called from a map, but i don't think so. However, i think it is possible to change the display using a .ngr script. Bests Thomas

maybe its the Ripple off the PSU about your PSU - reichelt specs is saying : "Ondulation résiduelle : 80 mVcàc" i guess this is not a 50Hz ripple but HF ripple... --- i guess some small cap (100nf, 10pF) and a big Cap (depends on the load, use for example a 100uF and a 2200uF) on the output off the PSU would reduce that "ripple"... * maybe that caps are not enough and you need some more filtering (coil, resistor, lpf...) but i would start with some caps... the connections in your 2nd picture are not necessery - i guess (dont seeing the whole picture, but i think so...) --- so picture 1 is correct. by the way - its only the last LED that flickers? maybe you have to terminate the DO line on the very last LED off the Chain with a 10K resistor to 5V or Ground. else it could be a software problem, when the software loops thru the LEDs, and when it comes to the last one it jumps to the beginning off the chain... try to programm in the ng code one more LED (which in reality not exists) - so you can be sure that this is not a software bug... - but dont ask me about ng-programming --- no glue about that. - mike.

Hello, first of all thank you for your previous answers. I haven't fixed the problem with the pads yet. I'm focusing on another problem for now: with the LED rings. with 16 led ring of 16 led no problem. when I add more, the LEDs flicker. https://youtu.be/HyLkVeFtALw?si=gT09lbCxEwLRmHt8 I read here: http://midibox.org/forums/topic/21095-lre-4x1-breakable-rgb-led-ringrotary-encoder-pcb-bulk-order/?do=findComment&comment=184155 FantomXR had flickering problems, solved with a 10uf capacitor. Should I add a 10uf capacitor at the input of my LED ring cards? (as in the image below) (C129) To understand my configuration see the pdfs: LEDRING: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XpDQBUE42IqXpXicO--B2gfIoNQDh5ga/view?usp=drive_link “power card”: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NJ-H-QXD-tl9rU6nbYdEh2Q4jFqjWt6b/view?usp=drive_link I made a PCB that I call a “power card” that I supply with 5v 10 amps. The J2 connector of the "power card" is connected to J4b of core 32. Connector J44 of the first OLED card is connected to J3 of the “power card” Connector J45 of the first OLED card is connected to J4 of the “power card” Connector J44 of the second OLED card is connected to J5 of the “power card” Connector J45 of the second OLED card is connected to J6 of the “power card” etc.. Thank you

Hi all , Was wondering about opening a KiCAD Section in the wiki? For tutorials , midibox libs etc... where should i put it? regards, JK Edit : A Frontpanel designer section could be useful too ?That's a soft that i think most of us use? Maybe create a "Softwares" Section?

the next generation off Triggermatrix, with insights to shematic, the board-files i will not set free... the Pictures from the Boards are for debugging reasons only. where possible, i made pick and place ready boards - to reduce soldering time... at this point the big BLM16x16 board is not pick and place ready. WIKI: Triggermatrix 5 Display-Driver-SMD BLM16x16-V2 Core 4 Discovery Core 4 Disc - Midi Expansion TM5-codeblock TM5 Din Dout Gates TM5 Gate - Breakoutboards TM5 Gate - In TM5-Housing

i made a passive design, since the fan which came from mouser, was dead from the beginning... since it is a 6582, it was not going very hot anyway... but i drilled Holes into the pcb under the SID-Sockets, and cut aways some plastic from the socket too. i too drilled some holes in the plastic body under the Main-PCB too, the backside off the SID should be enough to get rid off the hot air...

j2/j17 should do the trick yes.

Hi Long time I don't play with NG config, but It should be possible with enc_mode=Inc41_Dec3F , combined with fwd to 2 sender and conditional filtering, something like if_equal=0x41 send note A, and if_equal=0x3F send note B ?

@ Faderboard 1 & 2 Mounting holes labeling not necessery again. rest is ok. you may could label + and - beside the 2x5 shroudet Pinheaders, so there is no chance someone reverse it in a way... in generell... normally the Nose- says all, but someone could crimp the cable incorrect... so if he controll measure, this is a good hint then for him.

@ pusbutton: the LEDs in the shematic are REVERSED for example look into: http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_doutx4_32leds.pdf but in the board itself the Silkscreen for the Diode is painted correct - so if somebody just solder the PCB without looking into the Shematic - all is good, when someone look into the shematic he may be confused a bit. what type off Switch are using here > type it on the silkscreen - like you did on the Potentiometerboard. because: i see in the footprint its a le mec > then there are different types, with different Switch contacts - like you see here: 5GTH9 + 5ETH9 will work, while 5GTH9 with inbuilt LED will not work off course... i for me find the correct switch matching to your PCBs Footprint-Pinout - a bit hard... so label the type.... the rest off the PCB looks ok.

maybe by removing the pull-Hi resistor off the HC165 Circuit, and using a Inverter on its inputs for example: https://www.mouser.at/ProductDetail/Nexperia/74HCT1G14GW-Q100H?qs=SKY61BOKKY4Uv%2FaFLc8SsQ%3D%3D https://www.mouser.at/datasheet/2/916/74HC_HCT1G14_Q100-2937184.pdf (just a example maybe there are better parts for this porpuse, and i dont know how hard to solder this one is) that would reverse Lo and Hi, and you could use this bloddy 3 LEDs ( where i think thats not a good idea, the Encoder is expensive - and not really a standard part...) but for that quick idea i would prototype that first (order a inverter, order a Encoder, make wires without pcb) ... specially iff any pull hi or pull low resistors are needet elsewhere, i guess you need a 10K pull-low resistor (to ground) on pin 3 off your Encoder then: HC165 > Inverter > Pull-Low + Pin3 since i have not much time these times, and you have plenty off modules what module i should check next? i just had a look on your 4x2 Enc RGB SW Led ring Rgb render here... and i am not 100% sure that the inbuilt RGB LEDs that enlighten the Encodersshaft dont shine on the LED-Ring and make them hard too read (maybe need some lightshielding)... by the way hard too read, those Alps Knobs are a bit big for that small Ledring - can you still see the LEDs when looking from a angle that is not 100% from top?

hei i stripped down the BLM-Project (so it cant be cloned with out weeks off routing U B ;) ) BLM-how-to.zip and i wrote some explaination... basicly i made a Grid with a center-cross - so a single button-LED-Fottprint can be placed correct to the Rubber-Button-Grid... you may have to set a a new "zero position off the Kicad Grid" to this crosses when you place the Button-LED-Fottprint on them... this Grid also have the Holes for the PCB which are needet to hold the rubber in Position.. maybe you find a "Flip-Chip" Variant for your RGB-LED... it would be better... you should not place it on the TOP side off the PCB... because it will illuminate the Neightbar-Button-Rubbers... The Hole in the PCB where the LEDs shine thru, act as a Light-Shield... I too have to draw a RGB-LED board (for a other Task, to illuminate a Frontpanel...), since i dont have expierence with that RGB-LEDs... this will take a while... if you found a solution i would copy it from you.... At Kicad 7... didnt know there is a stable out... good to know... will update too (else i cant check your projects)

That's absolutely glorious Peter! Nice work (as always!)

at RGB-Leds > i dont know, how many you will use? which coremodule you will use? is it eurorackbased > and eurorack powerd? Which RGB-LED you will use - and what is the Voltage it needs? and so on.... i looked into your files.... some notices: @BP: dont connect the mountingholes to ground, or any other potential, best would be to make a keep out-area (sperrfläche) arround it, like i did for example here: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?w=600&tok=f96292&media=phatline:daw-btn-3d-b.jpg since you can plastic and/or metall standoffs to mount that pcb to the panel, you would need at least 6mm or more keepout-area.... background: you want to avoid groundloops over the frontpanel, and the risk of a electrical shock is less.... The LEDs in the diagram are connected false, the tip off the arrow should always be connected to the ground. (you should turn them 180°) which buttons do you want to use? please check the pinout off them... for me it happend that i did not connect the correct pins, so double check this.... why you made those cuts on the 4 corners? its better to make them rectangular - background: if you panelize the pcb, you have to draw a V-Grove line, the machine can only Grove in 90°, the idea, is to put 2 off this boards on one 100x100 PCB so you can save money on FAB.... way more oversight you have if you use a Groundsymbol... instead off paint Lines to a ground inside your shematic... look into "control" to see what i mean...also it makes it easyier to work with groundplanes, since this needs a NET... @Control: please open this file:Control.zip the same like above, and, you dont need that vias next to PIN 2 off the switches > Pin 2 is a via itself.... - same for Pin 1 off P2, the Problem it did not fill without your Vias: because you dont used a Ground-Net.... Pin1 - which is labeld as VDD (+) was connect to all your buttons and the pot (which is a Encoder)... normaly we connect them to ground..... VSS is ground.... so i exchanged the whole thing.... i dont know iff this is then still correct in your big picture- wiring diagram.... how ever thats the way i would make it - at least iff the Pin-Labels off the IDC Connectors are right... you should put the 4 mounting holes in the shematic, so you dont loose them when updating the PCB Also dont label your Encoder with Pot or RV >>> this is not a Potentiometer... that confused me until i realized this is a Encoder.... also the google-Drive files are a bit corrupt - the footprints where not assigned to the Shematic symbols...... when you save the project and upload it somewhere - zip it inside Kicad with "Projektdaten archivieren" - dont know the french word for it. -please overwork also your BP like/or simular like i did.... @Fader 1/2.... please open this file: Fad_2.zip shematic: also better use GND and VDD Nets.... more oversight! if you dont use a Pin off your IDC-Header (P5), then "x" them out with the blue "x" on the right side off your editor.... For what are those outer Mounting holes? they are too near to the Faders...make the pcb bigger so there is space for a Spacer/standoff, or use only the 4 inner mounting holes... which i think is enough.... again better 90° corners.... fill out your Shematics "Circuit-Field" right down - dont know the englisch or french word for "Plankopf" ... by the way you can design your own "Plankopf", so you dont see there thing like "KiCAD E.D.,A kicad 6.0.10......" keep out for mounting holes again... (see PB) dont make outher planes on VDD(+) ... mostly there can happen problems when mounting the thing to a panels, better use Ground-Planes... When looking on your FAders Footprint, and on the DAtasheet for the RA6020F then i am not sure iff the pinout is correct (the datasheet is bullshit...) but i guess you imported the Symbol and Footprint from mouser or something....then i guess its oky.... also use the design-rule check function (in a shematic and PCB-Editor) i did not looked in the other kicad-projects... but i guess its the same - a bit overwork needet..

Yes, absolutely. Please PM me for details, ideally including your location so I can give you a shipping quote if interested.

Looks very nice and neat .I didnt know you are so busy with things . (Thank you for your support). I was working a lot with max/msp and m4l too. Its a lot of fun , but it takes a lot of time as well :) . Enjoy and keep up this amazing work.

So good and inspiring to see what you are creating! Good luck with your further progress, I‘m watching you :-)!

could be... you can try to filter out some psu-spikes by soldering a 100nf (maybe add also a 1uF or higher for too more stabilize the psu as addition) cap between + and - on the potis legs (most off the time these are the outer 2 legs off the trio)

look into ng documentation if there can be set a offset for the middle position so it stays on a position... because pots directly to the core is always a bit random... better use for example: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_ainser8.html then you have less random values also check the quality off PSU...off course a faulty pot can be the reason too

@ cherry: the switch itself you can get already from eg https://www.reichelt.de/tastaturzubehoer-c8099.html?ACTION=2&GROUPID=8099&SEARCH=*&START=16&OFFSET=16&CCOUNTRY=445&LANGUAGE=de&r=1&SID=967792150a00d890464504461a66ae529d97182e528c945af4544 caps: amazon, alibaba,.maybe.some thing like that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FYO8EDC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=flat%2Bkeycaps&qid=1675511770&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1 https://www.cherrymx.de/en/dev.html the low profile is maybe interesting....

@poti; if the shaft's center is in the end on the same position - so same frontpanel holes can be used.... and: when soldering the thing: first mount the pcbs with loose potis on the frontpanel then solder it (and document this in the "how too build"... @ - : use thermal destress traces (cant remember the kicad word) when using groundplanes, so you can desolder the the poti much easier.

control hardware yes, if it is well documentadet on the wiki (shematic, board screenshot) I too work with kicad since decades... and very sucessfull now with my actual projects - i was wondering but i planed it in kicad, and most off the boards where working 100% out off the Box (pick and place JLCPCB), ok i had a design fault on one, but that was solved with a wire-done. actual projects http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=triggermatrix5 http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=daw-ableton http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=openpad software: cant help, write my own Mios-based code, havent look into MidiboxNG - since it is a script, for me more easy to write it directly in C, (need to understand all, else i understand/learn nothing...) - so no help from this side had good expierences with jlcpcb... also with the Pick and Place service FrontPanels: maybe cheap CNC-Laser-Cutting from pcbway? https://www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/CNC-machining/CNC-Laser-Cutting-Services.html suggestions? Maybe use Eurorackformat, so it can be used outside of your box too? suggestion, where usefull (wo sinnvoll) use J89 Serial Chain directly onboard (like encoder with ledring boards) to reduce wireing - a simple button board dont needs that of course.... *** if you go the Serial Chain way, then buffer the Serial chain on each module to keep the digital Signal Quality intact (very necessery) *** buffer: search for SN74LVC1G17DBVR in this shematic: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=phatline:blm16x16-shematic.pdf maybe use pick and place ready smd technologoy like i did: that makes it smaller, and less to solder, less to debug, the plastic packages stays in china, more economical special when ordering more pcbs, by that of course a module should fit all the boxes (a exotic 1 man needs it module 10times fabricated is 9 too much...) i think i dont have to say, that you should choose "Basic" Parts, and not "extendet parts" on JLCPCB, - off course on most modules you have at least one or two extendeet parts... but for example a DINX4 or DOUTX4 can be made with basic parts only... but when you also want to pick and place all the pin headers - these are extendet parts, how ever ... you may look on my last modules a bit http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=tm5-dindoutgate http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=doutx2dinx1 if you use long cables to your Displays + u use more displays then one - on the modules, use a display driver (no more walking lines) http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=displaydriver-smd what else? if you make ground or other PCB-Planes, then setup kicad that it make 1-2mm space arround solderpoints - else the Soldering Man could make shorts, or electrocemical oxidations or solder flux-low-residance could make there some problems (after years), special when the Solderstop-Pain is scratched a bit... ... and so on... PS i hate this wooble feeling off this LeMec Buttons (the last board you posted) - these Buttons are not good (for my taste) I love to work with this ones: https://www.reichelt.de/at/de/eingabetaster-schaltspannung-24v-fuer-led-sw-dtl-2-sw-p7248.html?&trstct=pos_0&nbc=1 they are expensive, but they last decades (in use, and also if you order 300 off them and let them lye arround, after 15 years they still work) They have good CLICK, like a mechanical Keyboard. your leMec Buttons are like a mixture off Rubberdome and "i have to touch this buttons into one direction X=0 Y=0 else it want switch" or you could use: https://www.midiphy.com/en/shop-details/140/4/5pcs-matias-quiet-click-tactile-switch- they are cheap but big... (aka take away a lot of Frontpanel space) or maybe you use cherry switches or simulars.... they are all 1000% better then this leMecs... ( you notice i hate them)

PM sent!

this will take a while - look into the forum in 5 weeks or so. i need the PCB to make a new version off Triggermatrix (http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=triggermatrix4) the Frontpanel is not a generic MatrixController thing - it has 17 Displays, 8 Faders, some rotarys and buttons, the Software for this is not a normal Midicontroller-code (aka Midibox NG) - its my own creation a sequencer based on MIOS. - but if i not make a shematic mistake, the pcb should be usable like the orginal BLM16*16+X in other Midibox Projects.

Very cool….well done.

Oh, wow, I totally missed that! Thank you!!! I wasted an entire day rummaging around and didn't manage to see that :) Just in case others run across this: You want 4SPI configuration, not IIC like I have in the pic. The number of screens you have must match the configuration you set in the bootloader, otherwise you get noise, and won't be able to write to all the lines/columns Also easy to miss, but for the 1306 RES connection, you need to wire it up like this (again, connections on your 1306 PCB): GND -> 10uf cap -> 1k resistor -> VCC. Once done, RES will be tied to where the cap and resistor meet (like this) It wasn't clear to me how to actually use the bootloader for the STMF4 board, but it's essentially: Plugin your board as you normally do Open MIOS Studio Click Browse and choose the mios32_bootloader app (download here) Click Start. If it won't complete, try unpluging/pluging the board and trying again Unplug/plugin the board In the MIDI IN and MIDI OUT sections whatever app you had prior to all of this might be listed, but it doesn't actually exist (and it shouldn't). That's why you now see the error "No response...". The new app, MIOS32, took its place and you need to refresh to see it. Click Application -> Rescan MIDI Devices Click Understood in the pop-up (this will make your old app disappear, and the MIOS32 app show up) Change MIDI IN and MIDI OUT to MIOS32 Enter these one by one into the input box: (send a command to MIOS32 application). Keep in mind lcd_num_x must match the number you have chained: set lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306 set lcd_num_x 1 set lcd_num_y 1 set lcd_width 128 set lcd_height 64 store Yah. Bootloader is done. Time to restore your app in MIOS Studio: Click Browse and choose whatever app you want, like midibox_ng Click Start. Like the bootloader, if it won't complete, try unpluging/pluging the board and trying again Unplug/plugin the board Now for some test display data. Lets set some values for your SSD1306 OLED's in MIOS Studio: Click on Tools -> MIOS32 File Browser Click Create File Create some name like LCD.NGC Click Update Click on the file you just created Click Edit Text and add the following test example: RESET_HW LCD "%C" LCD "@(1:1:1)A23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:2)B23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:3)C23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:4)D23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:5)E23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:6)F23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:7)G23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:8)H23456789012345678901234567890" Click Save You should now have 8 rows and 21 columns of text. If you need to flip it 180 degrees, you can redo the steps above and add set lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306_ROTATED before you store.

Did you adjust the bootloader for the SSD1306? See here http://ucapps.de/midibox_ng_manual_lcd.html

pcb arrive, soldered 4 off them (12 channels) - the 4 others i make a nother time. (24ch in total) the display drivers from Andy work great again! the midibox code is working, the max for live patches too. (at least for this state i am happy to get automaticly the Channels names, and the Macronames!!! hell yeah!)

Here's the gerbers for the MB-6582 panel set pictured in this thread... Please credit @listen202 and @Manu29 for their efforts... _MB6582_Panel_L202-Manu.zip _MB6582_Rear_L202-Manu.zip

Notwithstanding a possible bridge day, last Friday of the month (27.05.22 / 7:30pm), online: We organize our regular Open Hardware Happy Hour (O3H) again! This month’s topic is Open Music, since Open Hardware is of course also a topic in the field of electronic music devices (and more and more on the rise). Among other things, we will present the sample sequencer by SucoFunk, The beatmakers’s sketchbook, an Open Hardware device that was also featured at this year’s Superbooth. We have asked for other speakers, so be prepared to be surprised, and bring your own (music) projects! Presenters will include Marc Berendes, Berlin-based Open Hardware developer at SucoFunk. Marc Berendes: The beatmakers’s sketchbook – An open sample sequencer for beats on-the-go (https://sucofunk.com/) (tba) Language of the presentations will probably be German this time. Link Call: https://bbb.cyber4edu.org/b/dan-gi4-bxg-p1v Blog: https://hardware.prototypefund.de/o3h-meetup-zu-open-music/

i guess not the pyboard uses a 12Mhz external crystal? and Mios32 needs? look at the Pinout: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=antichambre:pinout_compare_chart2.png a quick look at for example the SD-Card Pins - of the pyboard and on Dipcore or Discovery stm32F407VG - says that the use other GPIO to do things... So yes you may flash that pyboard, but the Mhz might not be right (aka need to replace the oscillator) So yes you might run MIOS afterwards... but you cant use for example the onboard SD-Card - because it is wired to other pins... you have to DO the work that antichambre did (change the GPIO ports in MIOS, make a new toolchain, and that is a Job for someone who knows what he does - i would be very happy if i could do that - or someone introduce that skill to me- but i dont have any glue about that)

Oh si il est polyphonique ! Tu as 8 voies simultanées que tu peux router vers un canal/port midi dédié ! - Yes it it polyphonic, you have 8 simultaneous voices you can route on a dedicated midi channel/port !

Idem, il va transformer mon AX80 , slurps. Plus sérieusement, bravo pour le travail effectué, félicitations! Si j'ai bien compris, il n'est pas polyphonique? Merci d'avance pour la réponse.

Hi Therezin, I mounted the monitor upside-down because of the viewing angle. This specific monitor has been designed to be looked at from above. It's actually pretty good from around 10° to 90°, but from 95° to 180°, the visibility is very bad. Therefore i had to reverse it so when i seat behind my desk, i'm in the good range. Let me know if this explanation is not clear enough, it's pretty hard to describe in a foreign language. Thomas

Sure, that should work!

ok i am in austria... so maybe a other one?

So 16 banks in total, right? I'll will try something... After a bit of head scratching and a few glasses of rhums, here you go: first the .ngc : EVENT_BUTTON id= 1 type= Meta meta= DecBank meta= RunSection:1 button_mode= OnOnly #Bank decrease EVENT_BUTTON id= 2 type= Meta meta= IncBank meta= RunSection:1 button_mode= OnOnly #Bank increase EVENT_LED id= 1 range= 1:1 radio_group= 1 #bank1 EVENT_LED id= 2 range= 2:2 radio_group= 1 #bank2 EVENT_LED id= 3 range= 3:3 radio_group= 1 #bank3 EVENT_LED id= 4 range= 4:4 radio_group= 4 #bank4 now for the .ngr : ####### Section 0 ####### if ^section == 0 log "running section0" #initialize all banks to 1 log "call bank 1 for all parameters" set ^bank 1 exit endif ######################### ########## Section 1 ########### #tests for the current bank and lights the corresponding LED if ^section == 1 if ^bank == 1 log "bank 1 selected" set LED:1 1 elseif ^bank == 2 log "bank 2 selected" set LED:2 2 elseif ^bank == 3 log "bank 3 selected" set LED:3 3 elseif ^bank == 4 log "bank 4 selected" set LED:4 4 endif exit endif ################################ I hope it works for you, at least, it behaves as wanted here.

yes, as many as you need, until you reach the 1000 maximum character for a single line. then you can use .ngr script, EVENT_SENDER or EVENT_anything really to trigger even more things.

Hi ssp, Two things: First, you need to change the id of the second controller: # Bank 1 EVENT_AINSER id=1 hw_id =1 bank=1 fwd_to_lcd=1 type=CC chn=1 cc=16 range=0:127 offset=0 lcd_pos=2:1:1 label="FDR1 #%3i %3d@(2:1:2)%B" #Bank 2 EVENT_AINSER id=1001 hw_id =1 bank=2 fwd_to_lcd=1 type=CC chn=1 cc=17 range=0:127 offset=0 lcd_pos=2:1:1 label="FDR2 #%3i %3d@(2:1:2)%B" Otherwise, Midibox might get confused, all EVENT_xxx must have a unique id. Unless they are of different types. for example you can have EVENT_LED id=1 and EVENT_AINSER id=1 Second: To light an led for each bank you need the button that sets the bank to forward info to the respective LED. for example: # select Bank1 directly EVENT_BUTTON id=1 fwd_id= LED:1 type=Meta meta=SetBank button_mode=OnOnly range=1:1 # select Bank2 directly EVENT_BUTTON id=2 fwd_id= LED:2 type=Meta meta=SetBank button_mode=OnOnly range=2:2 #LEDS EVENTS EVENT_LED id= 1 range= 1:1 radio_group= 1 EVENT_LED id= 2 range= 2:2 radio_group=1 The radio group makes sure only one LED turns on I also put the switches in the same radio_group on my config, but i'm not certain it's mandatory. now, i didn't use cycle_bank, inc_bank or dec_bank but you can take a look at those examples config to see if you find something interesting: https://github.com/midibox/mios32/tree/master/apps/controllers/midibox_ng_v1/cfg/tests And also, i found usefull to add #initialize all banks to 1 log "call bank 1 for all parameters" set ^bank 1 to the section 0 of my .ngr script. this ensure that all parameters are set to bank 1 at startup.

Hi everyone! Quick update here. I finally finished my controller and installed it in my small control-room. Here it is. I really like the way it turned out, i'm working with it since 2 weeks now, and it's a real bonus to the ergonomics. It still have room for improvements but that was expected and i will continue to work on it in the next future. I'd like to thank everyone on this forum who helped me build this and a BIG thanks to TK and all the midibox team. Without this place I would have never been able to even start this project. Cheers, Thomas

It's not quite clear to me what you want to do? You want to have one J89 SRIO chain and switch between several Cores? If that's right, it is trivial to make a Johnson counter/decade counter out of a 4017 chip. You could think to use the output enable pin(s) of the buffer (541 or 125) that is used to interface the buss to the core. Each Core gets one buffer with the datalines connected to the inputs (+DIN to an output), the outputs are common to the J89 chain (+ the serial in). Advance the counter to "turn on" one chip.

I get the same, but one trick is to highlight the entire contents and "print" the page to PDF. Then you should get the images in line. Best, Andy

After some CRAZY international shipping delays (>4 months), my SwinSID Ultimates have finally shown up! My first observation was "Jeeze, they've jammed a lot of tech into these bad boys", from the top-to-bottom and on both sides... I count two MCUs (an Atmel Mega 168PA and an ATtiny85), plus a Xilinx CPLD (sort of like a small FPGA). Then there's three LEDs (Red, Green and Yellow - one for each SID voice), and that massive crystal oscillator (the SG615). Visually, they come across as being 'a bit over engineered', especially when you compare them to the elegant and pro looking ARM2SIDs. Given all the parts, they wind up costing ~$10 USD more than the ARMSID (assuming you can even find them). We all know that beauty is only skin deep and looks can be deceiving, so best to dig right into the sound quality... I decided it would be easiest (and quickest) to test these from my Ultimate 64, because it has Zif sockets and an integrated SID player that supports stereo tracks (e.g., all the 2SID and 3SID tracks from the High Voltage SID Collection)... As always, interested to hear any thoughts & comments... Notes: The real SIDs are 8580 R5 The SwinSID Ultimates are both configured to emulate 8580 The ARM2SIDs are cable-connected, in "Stereo Socket Mode", with both configured to emulate 8580

Quick heads up on this for anyone that might wanna do this. I had some trouble compiling the above version for Linux Mint 19.3. Couple things you might need to do: ./configure --without-residfp This was giving me a weird "you need to be on a 32-bit platform at least" error (I'm on 64-bit, Ryzen) but we don't need this for outputting to an MBSID anyway The makefiles do not add -pthread. There's probably a more elegant way to fix this, but I just edited src/Makefile and added `-pthread` to the end of CFLAGS, CXXFLAGS and that seemed to avoid the errors You may need to symlink /usr/local/lib64/vice to /usr/local/lib if installing system wide (otherwise stuff like keyboard input doesn't work) You need the ROMs of course! Doing all this allowed me to bust out the HVSC intros included in the collection. Seems to work like a champ!

Hi guys, I don't know the best for your project but I can explain what I did for the OLRE16. First is the MASK, it's black PMMA. Both sides are milled. I let some space between the leds on the pcb to keep some matters between the leds housing. Led size is 1.5x2mm On the other side(front side) there's some stripes which will fit inside the translucent PMMA, they will block the light between the leds, between the rings and between the rings and the oleds. . Note: the olre16 top pcb(ring) has no component on the top except the leds and the oleds. In blue are the back leds housing. In Red there are the holes. In Yellow, some stripes to block the light on the front, those stripes will fit inside the back of the translucent PMMA. The second part is the 'WINDOW', in translucent white PMMA, it's a LED special one, the same I used for the beat led window of the Seqv4+. The back part will fit inside the MASK, in other word the base of the WINDOW will receive the MASK's stripes, of course the WINDOW's pipes are in front of the MASK's holes. Then the Aluminum front panel comes to finish blocking the light and the pipes of the WINDOW will fit inside the panel, flush the surface. When they are coupled When coupled , assembled the thickness without the pipes height(front panel thickness) doesn't exceed 2.5mm Voilà! I don't know if it will help you and It's surely an "over-engineered" thing but this is the only solution I found, and it works. Best regards Bruno

Hey people, in this thread I'll post time after time updates about my latest keyboard build. Also I'll use this thread to publish eagle-PCB-layout-files and schematics. But please be patient. Uploading and documenting all that stuff is highly time consuming and it's right before christmas. So far everything works great, but the work under the hood was really time consuming because I used a lot of modules... some available from Tim, some I did on my own. I think modules are great if you need high flexibility... and all the modules are working perfectly. But if it comes down to save space and wiring, modules are a mess. Anyway... here we go: So I was tired using a laptop, a soundcard, tons of cables and all that stuff on stage. So I thought: What if I put the computer into the keyboard? It was quite successful. I used an Mini-ITX mainboard from Gigabyte, an i5-3570k (I'd go with a better i7 if I hadn't had that i5 before) with a low profile cooler. The mainboard is equipped with 16GB of RAM. Also I integrated two Samsung SSDs with 500GB each. The whole thing is powered through a Seasonic SS250U power supply. As soundcard I use a PCIe card from RME HDSPe AiO. Because this only has two audio in/outs, I also bought two expansion-board that gives me another four in and outs. The first two analog-outs are going through a self-made DI-box with high quality LEHLE-transformer... absolutely great stuff. This DI-box features also a 20dB PAD and a GND-lift. Let's hand over to the MIDIbox-side: I use two cores. One of them only takes care of the keyboard scanning. It was very important to me to not make a compromise on this. This core is connected via MIDI-out to the MIDI-In of the other core. Both cores are STM32F4 based. I used my own PCBs for that. @TK. Is it a problem if I publish those schematics and layouts for the core? I know that the official core is not published yet to cover the costs for PCB production and development. The PCB I developed only contains the connectors I need: it has J8/9, J19, J10A, J11 and J30 (as far as I remember... don't have it right in front of me at the moment). I tried to get a smaller footprint of the whole PCB. It also features a MicroSD-card slot instead of the SD-card-slot in the official PCB. My keyboard has nine analog faders build in... they are not motorized. I don't need that for now as they are much more expensive and also take more space. Also they are more difficult to wire up and connect. At first I did some tests with the AINSER8. But after a while I gave AINSER64 a try with the result, that it has less jitter than the AINSER8. The faders are a lot more quiet than with AINSER8. As I needed more than 16 analog inputs this was needed anyway. I power the AINSER64 through the core and the core receives it's power directly from the seasonic-power supply and NOT via USB. I needed some LEDs to visualize the status of my faders. A long long time ago I wanted to start another LED-fader-project but never finished it. So I had a lot of those LED-bars laying around... I took them and putted them into the board... works and feels great! On the next revision I'd try to use one big PCB for all 9 LED-bars to safe wiring and time for mounting. Now I used two 10pin IDC connectors (with only 8 pins of each are connected to the LED-bars = 16 LEDs). I did some mistakes when assembling the LED-PCBs... now sometimes some LEDs don't work... anyway... I can live with that for now. @TK. How about the WS2812 or APA102-LEDs? Do you think it's worth using them as LED-rings? I'm not sure what the status is and if they are supported in that way by MIDIbox. Would be a great alternative but they take a lot more space than 0603 SMD LEDs of course. The LED-bars are connected to small modules I did based on @novski designs. Those small modules are equipped with one or two DIN / DOUT modules. They work great and the advantage is, that I can stack them directly on the pinheader of the PCB... no cables needed! A bit hotglue and you are ready to go. I also have 8 encoders on each side of the keyboard. The right side is not connected yet... not sure if I do need so many encoders ;-) Of course they are also equipped with LED-rings. While the LED-bars where assembled by factory (I think I used SEEED) the encoder-rings came blank... so it took me a looooooong time adding 128 0805 SMD LEDs to all PCBs... at this time I had not have my reflow-oven... with this one that might be an easy task :-) The encoders (and the switches of the encoders) are connected to a 4xDIN board from novski. I'm not sure if this board really works well. Sometimes if I set debug on, MIOS lists tons of EVENT_BUTTONS. I'll need to investigate that. Maybe it has something to do with RC1 / RC2 lines. Underneath the faders I have a set of 2x8 buttons. I'm not really happy with them. I did the caps by myself and this was a really shitty work... next time I will use tact-switches that already come with caps f.e. TC011 like I did in the 1x8 button-row right in front of the player / underneath the display. For the buttons I designed a DIO-breakout-board. This breakout-board splits the matrix configuration of the 2x8 pinheader of the DIO-module to a more usable 2x5pin header-configuration with the row on pin 1 and the switch-lines on 3-10. With this way it's very easy to connect tons of buttons to a MIDIbox. . Same for the LEDs of the buttons. I used a DOUT-module with ULN2803 as LED driver (btw. I drive all LEDs with ULN2803 and do NOT use a resistor before or after the LEDs. As those LED-lines are scanned, a limiting resistor doesn't seem to be necessary). That's mainly it... the keyboard has two MIDI I/Os on the back as well as four pedal connectors for two switches and two expression pedals. The touchscreen in the middle is a 10" capacitive screen... that works awesome!! That's the story for now... like I said I'll try to keep this thread alive and add the PCB layouts and schematics later on. Thanks for reading!! Best, Chris

Small nitpick, Arkay, and I feel bad for saying it, as I'm not one of those spelling nazis on forums, but you're missing a comma, there shouldn't be a "." before "but" and it's "nazis" not "nazi's". Please stop doing that.