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Hey everyone, just wanted to share my latest build since I'm sure there are some 3D printing enthusiasts here like myself. I bought the parts for an MB6582 about 5 years ago, if you remember Meeblip was selling those 8580 SID chips and I picked up 8 of them, and then put everything into a box in a closet . 3D printing has come a very long way since the original MB6582 was created by Wilba. I read that the JB Weld solution may or may not be holding up great after all this time. Also, I wanted to use a Newhaven OLED which is much thinner than the original LCD. I thought there must be a solution to lower the gap distance so why not create some type of spacer for between the front panel and the PCB? I designed all parts in Fusion360. The PCB screws directly into the spacer using M2.5 nuts/screws and plastic screws. The top of it has a flange that rests in the panel groove for the PT-10. Total spacer height is 5.7mm which is the height of the base of the encoders. The front panel is another 1.25mm. Everything is printed out of ASA, which is very strong and heat resistant. I designed the panel graphics in Inkscape and printed on translucent vinyl. I used Davies knobs with small printed skirts to cover up the threads of the encoders since they were exposed. I do not have a vinyl autocutter but I do have an exacto and lots of patience Overall tried going with a 80s beige computer look. A build plate for my printer created the carbon fiber effect on the panel. I'm happy to share the 3D files if anyone could use them.

I read a lot of guides. Successfully compiled ASM code. The OLED display works well with an 8bit driver. If anyone needs the firmware, here is: setup_sammich_sid_8bit.hex

Hey man. It's actually an FR4-Standard PCB. Non aluminium. But seems pretty robust anyway.

Hi, I might have what you're looking for. Would you be interested with original 2044 chips too? edit: found, PCBs from Seppoman and chips from Wilba

Hello everyone! Over the past few months, I’ve engineered a brand-new MB6582-style synthesizer, deeply inspired by the original Midibox MB6582 but redesigned completely from scratch for improved reliability, easier assembly, and modern component availability. Key new features: Premium ENIG front panel PCB - durable, professional finish 4 PIC cores onboard - full MB6582-compatible architecture Factory-manufactured PCB set, including the front panel Supports ArmSID, Kung Fu SID, or original 6581/6582/8580 chips Clean internal layout, solid build, and high-quality components Prices: Base unit: 420 EUR + shipping With Kung Fu SID set: 499 EUR ArmSID pricing available upon request. Availability: The license allows producing 10 units, so I’m offering 9 units for sale. 1 unit is in stock right now Additional units can be assembled in 3-4 weeks If I receive permission to sell more broadly, I plan to lower the price and release all design files as open source I will make a separate thread in Latest News or somewhere else Photos PCBs and components:

Hello how much will cost the mb6582? and also If you plan to build a sammichFM let me know

Hi! Answered in PM. Yes, sammichFM can be ordered by dropshipping. Only a bare PCB can be ordered currently. Also coming soon - a new MB6582-compatible synth Inexpensive, fully compatible, affordable, technology optimized Will make a new thread soon

Apologies everyone I just saw these messages. I will make a note of gathering the files tonight and uploading them to the appropriate section here (Thanks Smithy). Thanks everyone for the kind words :)

In an older post (referenced below) there was a lot of talk about the different SID clone options available and the pros and cons of each. Somewhere in that thread I put my own cards on the table and doubled-down on the ARMSID, because IMHO it provides very good sound emulation for my synths and my Commodore systems. Well, fast-forward to today (a couple years later), and I'm still happy to say that I use the ARMSID and ARM2SID regularly. In fact, I did a quick inventory check and realized that I've purchased about ~25 of them over the last 2 yrs, for various builds and repairs... In that same older forum post, I made a reference to the ARMSID Shield, which is an Arduino Uno add-on, that lets you test and configure your ARMSIDs, as well as manage firmware updates and even play some SID tunes to test everything out. This shield basically lets you do everything with the ARMSID that you would have needed a C64 computer for in the past. I thought it would be useful for anyone that is thinking about using the ARMSID / ARM2SID for their MIDIBox SID builds, to have a quick and handy reference to help them get setup. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1B_xzXlLjq3NbKnOrhIoJ5PrlVIhlsD_aASEhB0CWK90/edit?usp=sharing Questions & comments are welcomed... Cheers

To use Studio on newer Ubuntu Desktops you need to install the old libwebkit2gtk-4.0.so.37. To do so create a sources.list file for apt containing the following line: deb http://gb.archive.ubuntu.com/ubuntu jammy main And install the lib. sudo apt update sudo apt install libwebkit2gtk-4.0-dev After this delete the sources.list file. More infos on https://www.weigu.lu/music/midibox_hp_2x2/index.html

Reflowed the ttasnsistors on the top side and now I am back to 12 LEDs on. I'm assuming the LEDs shouldn't be on, but otherwise that feels like an improvement as it means I get mattias switch events for 12 of 16. I'm also getting events for depresses on the right 4 encoders although they seem a bit random in the actual event details. I've also replaced IC2, IC3 and T3 based on advice from ChatGPT but that made no difference.

Cool solution, looks great! The skirts for the knobs are a nice touch. One thing I wonder about is if heat would build up here, as the free air space in the case is less and the panel is also an insulator. The SIDs are on another PCB of course.

Hello, When i mute part, i can do it by bottom row (normal known behavior), but also the top row. So it's confusing. Being able to mute only on bottom row will make the workflow more consistant. Or it could also being interesting to be able to mute differently between upper and bottom row. Like top row track 1-16 mute. Bottom row group 1-4 mute. Thanks in advance, Have a good day, Rgds,

MB-6582 SOLD Selling these as I no longer use them. I assembled the MB-6582 myself. It has 6x 8580 SIDs installed, and could use some TLC: - The encoders occasionally skip counts when adjusting them. I think this is just down to a bad batch so replacing them should fix it - Some of the standoffs that attach the front panel to the CS PCB have come unstuck and need to be reglued The SEQ V4 works perfectly €500 for either unit I am based in Spain

Arrived and kicking. Thank u for your service ❤️

New top as requested PM me please, or I can send the details as well.

Thanks for the tpd-test app it really helped me along with this build!.

a nother passive SID alive...

To prove that I have some PCBs here are the images of assembled sammichSIDs and sammichFM, and image of PCB of MB6582. Ideally, I would like to run a 10 pcs batch of MB6582 and for example donate 25% of revenue to Midibox project and to authors. If community and authors will approve it - I can make it. I made sammichSIDs so MB6582 would be better and more interesting. I'm just still curious if it is possible to buy originally expected enclosure. I think it is better to construct a new one using acrylic materials and probably just a PCB with a drawing for a front panel.

maybe its the Ripple off the PSU about your PSU - reichelt specs is saying : "Ondulation résiduelle : 80 mVcàc" i guess this is not a 50Hz ripple but HF ripple... --- i guess some small cap (100nf, 10pF) and a big Cap (depends on the load, use for example a 100uF and a 2200uF) on the output off the PSU would reduce that "ripple"... * maybe that caps are not enough and you need some more filtering (coil, resistor, lpf...) but i would start with some caps... the connections in your 2nd picture are not necessery - i guess (dont seeing the whole picture, but i think so...) --- so picture 1 is correct. by the way - its only the last LED that flickers? maybe you have to terminate the DO line on the very last LED off the Chain with a 10K resistor to 5V or Ground. else it could be a software problem, when the software loops thru the LEDs, and when it comes to the last one it jumps to the beginning off the chain... try to programm in the ng code one more LED (which in reality not exists) - so you can be sure that this is not a software bug... - but dont ask me about ng-programming --- no glue about that. - mike.

Hi all , Was wondering about opening a KiCAD Section in the wiki? For tutorials , midibox libs etc... where should i put it? regards, JK Edit : A Frontpanel designer section could be useful too ?That's a soft that i think most of us use? Maybe create a "Softwares" Section?

the next generation off Triggermatrix, with insights to shematic, the board-files i will not set free... the Pictures from the Boards are for debugging reasons only. where possible, i made pick and place ready boards - to reduce soldering time... at this point the big BLM16x16 board is not pick and place ready. WIKI: Triggermatrix 5 Display-Driver-SMD BLM16x16-V2 Core 4 Discovery Core 4 Disc - Midi Expansion TM5-codeblock TM5 Din Dout Gates TM5 Gate - Breakoutboards TM5 Gate - In TM5-Housing

j2/j17 should do the trick yes.

@ pusbutton: the LEDs in the shematic are REVERSED for example look into: http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_doutx4_32leds.pdf but in the board itself the Silkscreen for the Diode is painted correct - so if somebody just solder the PCB without looking into the Shematic - all is good, when someone look into the shematic he may be confused a bit. what type off Switch are using here > type it on the silkscreen - like you did on the Potentiometerboard. because: i see in the footprint its a le mec > then there are different types, with different Switch contacts - like you see here: 5GTH9 + 5ETH9 will work, while 5GTH9 with inbuilt LED will not work off course... i for me find the correct switch matching to your PCBs Footprint-Pinout - a bit hard... so label the type.... the rest off the PCB looks ok.

@ potentiometer: looking good, but labeling the Holes is not necessery (i think) :

maybe by removing the pull-Hi resistor off the HC165 Circuit, and using a Inverter on its inputs for example: https://www.mouser.at/ProductDetail/Nexperia/74HCT1G14GW-Q100H?qs=SKY61BOKKY4Uv%2FaFLc8SsQ%3D%3D https://www.mouser.at/datasheet/2/916/74HC_HCT1G14_Q100-2937184.pdf (just a example maybe there are better parts for this porpuse, and i dont know how hard to solder this one is) that would reverse Lo and Hi, and you could use this bloddy 3 LEDs ( where i think thats not a good idea, the Encoder is expensive - and not really a standard part...) but for that quick idea i would prototype that first (order a inverter, order a Encoder, make wires without pcb) ... specially iff any pull hi or pull low resistors are needet elsewhere, i guess you need a 10K pull-low resistor (to ground) on pin 3 off your Encoder then: HC165 > Inverter > Pull-Low + Pin3 since i have not much time these times, and you have plenty off modules what module i should check next? i just had a look on your 4x2 Enc RGB SW Led ring Rgb render here... and i am not 100% sure that the inbuilt RGB LEDs that enlighten the Encodersshaft dont shine on the LED-Ring and make them hard too read (maybe need some lightshielding)... by the way hard too read, those Alps Knobs are a bit big for that small Ledring - can you still see the LEDs when looking from a angle that is not 100% from top?

That's absolutely glorious Peter! Nice work (as always!)

@Hawkeye I have never seen those tutorials before! don't know how I missed that, there is a wealth of info there. Following the tutorial the transpose works, under the scheme laid out in the tutorial. I will try the Root method next and report back. Thanks!

Yes, absolutely. Please PM me for details, ideally including your location so I can give you a shipping quote if interested.

Looks very nice and neat .I didnt know you are so busy with things . (Thank you for your support). I was working a lot with max/msp and m4l too. Its a lot of fun , but it takes a lot of time as well :) . Enjoy and keep up this amazing work.

So good and inspiring to see what you are creating! Good luck with your further progress, I‘m watching you :-)!

could be... you can try to filter out some psu-spikes by soldering a 100nf (maybe add also a 1uF or higher for too more stabilize the psu as addition) cap between + and - on the potis legs (most off the time these are the outer 2 legs off the trio)

look into ng documentation if there can be set a offset for the middle position so it stays on a position... because pots directly to the core is always a bit random... better use for example: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_ainser8.html then you have less random values also check the quality off PSU...off course a faulty pot can be the reason too

ok next step... "Mute" & Solo Buttons needs some external DINX and DOUTX boards (in order to make the SRIO-Gain short)

Here's the gerbers for the MB-6582 panel set pictured in this thread... Please credit @listen202 and @Manu29 for their efforts... _MB6582_Panel_L202-Manu.zip _MB6582_Rear_L202-Manu.zip

Oh si il est polyphonique ! Tu as 8 voies simultanées que tu peux router vers un canal/port midi dédié ! - Yes it it polyphonic, you have 8 simultaneous voices you can route on a dedicated midi channel/port !

Salut bruno, on fait comment pour t'en acheter un ? ;o)

So 16 banks in total, right? I'll will try something... After a bit of head scratching and a few glasses of rhums, here you go: first the .ngc : EVENT_BUTTON id= 1 type= Meta meta= DecBank meta= RunSection:1 button_mode= OnOnly #Bank decrease EVENT_BUTTON id= 2 type= Meta meta= IncBank meta= RunSection:1 button_mode= OnOnly #Bank increase EVENT_LED id= 1 range= 1:1 radio_group= 1 #bank1 EVENT_LED id= 2 range= 2:2 radio_group= 1 #bank2 EVENT_LED id= 3 range= 3:3 radio_group= 1 #bank3 EVENT_LED id= 4 range= 4:4 radio_group= 4 #bank4 now for the .ngr : ####### Section 0 ####### if ^section == 0 log "running section0" #initialize all banks to 1 log "call bank 1 for all parameters" set ^bank 1 exit endif ######################### ########## Section 1 ########### #tests for the current bank and lights the corresponding LED if ^section == 1 if ^bank == 1 log "bank 1 selected" set LED:1 1 elseif ^bank == 2 log "bank 2 selected" set LED:2 2 elseif ^bank == 3 log "bank 3 selected" set LED:3 3 elseif ^bank == 4 log "bank 4 selected" set LED:4 4 endif exit endif ################################ I hope it works for you, at least, it behaves as wanted here.

Hi everyone! Quick update here. I finally finished my controller and installed it in my small control-room. Here it is. I really like the way it turned out, i'm working with it since 2 weeks now, and it's a real bonus to the ergonomics. It still have room for improvements but that was expected and i will continue to work on it in the next future. I'd like to thank everyone on this forum who helped me build this and a BIG thanks to TK and all the midibox team. Without this place I would have never been able to even start this project. Cheers, Thomas

Jeannie & Volca in Love Link: https://www.tubeohm.com/

Hi all, I'm finally finished my MB SEQ V4L V1 from 2011. Sorry for the poor quality. Next step for me: Learn to play Next step for my children: Raspberry PI Touchcreen extension Best regards Jack

Hi everyone ! I experienced the same problem, and The Ancient One's solution works perfectly for me. I changed the 220R resistors to 68R for R21 and R22. Now the 9090 detects the signal without any issue. Thank you a lot Michael ! Théo

Small nitpick, Arkay, and I feel bad for saying it, as I'm not one of those spelling nazis on forums, but you're missing a comma, there shouldn't be a "." before "but" and it's "nazis" not "nazi's". Please stop doing that.