Leaderboard

Hey everyone, just wanted to share my latest build since I'm sure there are some 3D printing enthusiasts here like myself. I bought the parts for an MB6582 about 5 years ago, if you remember Meeblip was selling those 8580 SID chips and I picked up 8 of them, and then put everything into a box in a closet . 3D printing has come a very long way since the original MB6582 was created by Wilba. I read that the JB Weld solution may or may not be holding up great after all this time. Also, I wanted to use a Newhaven OLED which is much thinner than the original LCD. I thought there must be a solution to lower the gap distance so why not create some type of spacer for between the front panel and the PCB? I designed all parts in Fusion360. The PCB screws directly into the spacer using M2.5 nuts/screws and plastic screws. The top of it has a flange that rests in the panel groove for the PT-10. Total spacer height is 5.7mm which is the height of the base of the encoders. The front panel is another 1.25mm. Everything is printed out of ASA, which is very strong and heat resistant. I designed the panel graphics in Inkscape and printed on translucent vinyl. I used Davies knobs with small printed skirts to cover up the threads of the encoders since they were exposed. I do not have a vinyl autocutter but I do have an exacto and lots of patience Overall tried going with a 80s beige computer look. A build plate for my printer created the carbon fiber effect on the panel. I'm happy to share the 3D files if anyone could use them.

I read a lot of guides. Successfully compiled ASM code. The OLED display works well with an 8bit driver. If anyone needs the firmware, here is: setup_sammich_sid_8bit.hex

Hey man. It's actually an FR4-Standard PCB. Non aluminium. But seems pretty robust anyway.

Hello everyone! Over the past few months, I’ve engineered a brand-new MB6582-style synthesizer, deeply inspired by the original Midibox MB6582 but redesigned completely from scratch for improved reliability, easier assembly, and modern component availability. Key new features: Premium ENIG front panel PCB - durable, professional finish 4 PIC cores onboard - full MB6582-compatible architecture Factory-manufactured PCB set, including the front panel Supports ArmSID, Kung Fu SID, or original 6581/6582/8580 chips Clean internal layout, solid build, and high-quality components Prices: Base unit: 420 EUR + shipping With Kung Fu SID set: 499 EUR ArmSID pricing available upon request. Availability: The license allows producing 10 units, so I’m offering 9 units for sale. 1 unit is in stock right now Additional units can be assembled in 3-4 weeks If I receive permission to sell more broadly, I plan to lower the price and release all design files as open source I will make a separate thread in Latest News or somewhere else Photos PCBs and components:

Thanks for keeping this projects alive I will try to buy one of them next month if its possible again thanks so much for your work Best regards

In an older post (referenced below) there was a lot of talk about the different SID clone options available and the pros and cons of each. Somewhere in that thread I put my own cards on the table and doubled-down on the ARMSID, because IMHO it provides very good sound emulation for my synths and my Commodore systems. Well, fast-forward to today (a couple years later), and I'm still happy to say that I use the ARMSID and ARM2SID regularly. In fact, I did a quick inventory check and realized that I've purchased about ~25 of them over the last 2 yrs, for various builds and repairs... In that same older forum post, I made a reference to the ARMSID Shield, which is an Arduino Uno add-on, that lets you test and configure your ARMSIDs, as well as manage firmware updates and even play some SID tunes to test everything out. This shield basically lets you do everything with the ARMSID that you would have needed a C64 computer for in the past. I thought it would be useful for anyone that is thinking about using the ARMSID / ARM2SID for their MIDIBox SID builds, to have a quick and handy reference to help them get setup. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1B_xzXlLjq3NbKnOrhIoJ5PrlVIhlsD_aASEhB0CWK90/edit?usp=sharing Questions & comments are welcomed... Cheers

DM sent

Prompted by a message from freddy, I've attached the project files below. They contain the source and the binaries for the bootloader and the main code. 1.05 is the latest version - there was a fix in the bootloader and the main code. I included some memory in the final hardware design but never got around to doing anything useful with it. I had plans to save one or more demo tunes as MIDI files and perhaps save some settings as profiles for different scenarios - my interests had moved on before that happened. You can find more project info at https://web.archive.org/web/20210206041027/http://www.grapevyne.com/pic.projects/ - the documentation links are all active so you can download the magazine articles and also my original source for the articles (a few errors crept into the magazine article during editing). mistralXG project files.zip mistralBoot.zip

Hi all I am having a very hard time making any progress with a problem with my left LeMec board. When I first assembled the JA and LeMec boards and tested them, everything was working on JA board and the two LeMec boards except: - encoder 3 on left Lemec board was not registering depress events - encoder 8 on left LeMec board was generating garbage counter values when rotating. Since then I have gone backwards and been stuck for over several weeks with no progress. I first tried to solve the issues above with reflowing the ICs on left LeMec board but that didn't help. I then reflowed the ICs on the core, and after that, I am in this worse state with left LeMec board - encoder 8 does not register turns - none of the encoders are registering push events - 4 leftmost buttons on are not registering push events - 12 of the 16 LEDs light up immediately upon powering up as seen in attached pic I haven't bothered testing the Matias switch events as this is enough wrong already I have reflowed the ICs, diodes and transistors on that board multiple times, and on the core board too, and nothing is changing. The only advice I get from Midiphy is to reflow/check for dry joints/shorts which I have done over and over. It would help to have proper circuit diagrams to try to chase down likely culprits instead of messing with everything all the time. If I just connect the JA board to core and run the seq_l test, that is still testing fine for everything. The right LeMec board is out of the picture for now; I think it was all working well at least. Any help will be most welcome as I am close to assuming I just have to abandon this and write it off as a very expensive exercise in frustration and futility. Thanks Graham

II replaces the remaining ICs and its working! Woohoo!

Thanks, perhaps I'll shoot over to the UK ;-) I've rebuilt the core board now and I'm back where roughly where I started. At least I feel confident I have eliminated the core as a possible cause; the problem must be with my LeMec board. Done some more reflowing on that board and now: - just 4 LEDs light up on power up now - all encoders generate counts when rotated but not depresses - botton left 4 buttons generate no events; bottom right four are working - mattias switches generate events for the four that have illuminated LEDs but not the rest

MB-6582 SOLD Selling these as I no longer use them. I assembled the MB-6582 myself. It has 6x 8580 SIDs installed, and could use some TLC: - The encoders occasionally skip counts when adjusting them. I think this is just down to a bad batch so replacing them should fix it - Some of the standoffs that attach the front panel to the CS PCB have come unstuck and need to be reglued The SEQ V4 works perfectly €500 for either unit I am based in Spain

Arrived and kicking. Thank u for your service ❤️

Confirmed over here, no humanizer being applied to CC’s. I tried with an empty track sending layer A as CC on buss 1, and another track listing to buss 1. The listening track was responding to the cc’s, but humanizer did not effect the CC’s. Then moved the cc to layer B (usually the velocity layer) and still no changing of CC’s sent. steve

a nother passive SID alive...

To prove that I have some PCBs here are the images of assembled sammichSIDs and sammichFM, and image of PCB of MB6582. Ideally, I would like to run a 10 pcs batch of MB6582 and for example donate 25% of revenue to Midibox project and to authors. If community and authors will approve it - I can make it. I made sammichSIDs so MB6582 would be better and more interesting. I'm just still curious if it is possible to buy originally expected enclosure. I think it is better to construct a new one using acrylic materials and probably just a PCB with a drawing for a front panel.

If you made your own PCBs using the available schematics, then I think you may be free to sell them to others here, since they're your own derived work. However, you cannot sell the finished and fully assembled sammichSID or MB-6582 synths as commercial product without express permission. Someone else here may want to jump in and correct me if I got that wrong...

Hi ssp, I don't remember if labels can be called from a map, but i don't think so. However, i think it is possible to change the display using a .ngr script. Bests Thomas

maybe its the Ripple off the PSU about your PSU - reichelt specs is saying : "Ondulation résiduelle : 80 mVcàc" i guess this is not a 50Hz ripple but HF ripple... --- i guess some small cap (100nf, 10pF) and a big Cap (depends on the load, use for example a 100uF and a 2200uF) on the output off the PSU would reduce that "ripple"... * maybe that caps are not enough and you need some more filtering (coil, resistor, lpf...) but i would start with some caps... the connections in your 2nd picture are not necessery - i guess (dont seeing the whole picture, but i think so...) --- so picture 1 is correct. by the way - its only the last LED that flickers? maybe you have to terminate the DO line on the very last LED off the Chain with a 10K resistor to 5V or Ground. else it could be a software problem, when the software loops thru the LEDs, and when it comes to the last one it jumps to the beginning off the chain... try to programm in the ng code one more LED (which in reality not exists) - so you can be sure that this is not a software bug... - but dont ask me about ng-programming --- no glue about that. - mike.

j2/j17 should do the trick yes.

Hi Long time I don't play with NG config, but It should be possible with enc_mode=Inc41_Dec3F , combined with fwd to 2 sender and conditional filtering, something like if_equal=0x41 send note A, and if_equal=0x3F send note B ?

@ Faderboard 1 & 2 Mounting holes labeling not necessery again. rest is ok. you may could label + and - beside the 2x5 shroudet Pinheaders, so there is no chance someone reverse it in a way... in generell... normally the Nose- says all, but someone could crimp the cable incorrect... so if he controll measure, this is a good hint then for him.

hei i stripped down the BLM-Project (so it cant be cloned with out weeks off routing U B ;) ) BLM-how-to.zip and i wrote some explaination... basicly i made a Grid with a center-cross - so a single button-LED-Fottprint can be placed correct to the Rubber-Button-Grid... you may have to set a a new "zero position off the Kicad Grid" to this crosses when you place the Button-LED-Fottprint on them... this Grid also have the Holes for the PCB which are needet to hold the rubber in Position.. maybe you find a "Flip-Chip" Variant for your RGB-LED... it would be better... you should not place it on the TOP side off the PCB... because it will illuminate the Neightbar-Button-Rubbers... The Hole in the PCB where the LEDs shine thru, act as a Light-Shield... I too have to draw a RGB-LED board (for a other Task, to illuminate a Frontpanel...), since i dont have expierence with that RGB-LEDs... this will take a while... if you found a solution i would copy it from you.... At Kicad 7... didnt know there is a stable out... good to know... will update too (else i cant check your projects)

That's absolutely glorious Peter! Nice work (as always!)

You can leave off the USB, it's only an additional +5V power option selectable by jumper..

Hello all Selling my midibox sequencer including breakout box. The sequencer is fully functional, from a non-smoking household. Has never been used for live performances, only studio use. The breakout box is a bit obvious DIY but fully functional. You need a free slot in the modular system for the +-12V power supply. Selling price 1350,-€. best regards rbv2 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/midiphy-sequencer-v4-midibox-stepsequencer/2241157248-74-4257

Yes you usually need a metallized knob to make the touch detection usable !!!

look into ng documentation if there can be set a offset for the middle position so it stays on a position... because pots directly to the core is always a bit random... better use for example: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_ainser8.html then you have less random values also check the quality off PSU...off course a faulty pot can be the reason too

@ cherry: the switch itself you can get already from eg https://www.reichelt.de/tastaturzubehoer-c8099.html?ACTION=2&GROUPID=8099&SEARCH=*&START=16&OFFSET=16&CCOUNTRY=445&LANGUAGE=de&r=1&SID=967792150a00d890464504461a66ae529d97182e528c945af4544 caps: amazon, alibaba,.maybe.some thing like that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FYO8EDC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=flat%2Bkeycaps&qid=1675511770&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1 https://www.cherrymx.de/en/dev.html the low profile is maybe interesting....

control hardware yes, if it is well documentadet on the wiki (shematic, board screenshot) I too work with kicad since decades... and very sucessfull now with my actual projects - i was wondering but i planed it in kicad, and most off the boards where working 100% out off the Box (pick and place JLCPCB), ok i had a design fault on one, but that was solved with a wire-done. actual projects http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=triggermatrix5 http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=daw-ableton http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=openpad software: cant help, write my own Mios-based code, havent look into MidiboxNG - since it is a script, for me more easy to write it directly in C, (need to understand all, else i understand/learn nothing...) - so no help from this side had good expierences with jlcpcb... also with the Pick and Place service FrontPanels: maybe cheap CNC-Laser-Cutting from pcbway? https://www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/CNC-machining/CNC-Laser-Cutting-Services.html suggestions? Maybe use Eurorackformat, so it can be used outside of your box too? suggestion, where usefull (wo sinnvoll) use J89 Serial Chain directly onboard (like encoder with ledring boards) to reduce wireing - a simple button board dont needs that of course.... *** if you go the Serial Chain way, then buffer the Serial chain on each module to keep the digital Signal Quality intact (very necessery) *** buffer: search for SN74LVC1G17DBVR in this shematic: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=phatline:blm16x16-shematic.pdf maybe use pick and place ready smd technologoy like i did: that makes it smaller, and less to solder, less to debug, the plastic packages stays in china, more economical special when ordering more pcbs, by that of course a module should fit all the boxes (a exotic 1 man needs it module 10times fabricated is 9 too much...) i think i dont have to say, that you should choose "Basic" Parts, and not "extendet parts" on JLCPCB, - off course on most modules you have at least one or two extendeet parts... but for example a DINX4 or DOUTX4 can be made with basic parts only... but when you also want to pick and place all the pin headers - these are extendet parts, how ever ... you may look on my last modules a bit http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=tm5-dindoutgate http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=doutx2dinx1 if you use long cables to your Displays + u use more displays then one - on the modules, use a display driver (no more walking lines) http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=displaydriver-smd what else? if you make ground or other PCB-Planes, then setup kicad that it make 1-2mm space arround solderpoints - else the Soldering Man could make shorts, or electrocemical oxidations or solder flux-low-residance could make there some problems (after years), special when the Solderstop-Pain is scratched a bit... ... and so on... PS i hate this wooble feeling off this LeMec Buttons (the last board you posted) - these Buttons are not good (for my taste) I love to work with this ones: https://www.reichelt.de/at/de/eingabetaster-schaltspannung-24v-fuer-led-sw-dtl-2-sw-p7248.html?&trstct=pos_0&nbc=1 they are expensive, but they last decades (in use, and also if you order 300 off them and let them lye arround, after 15 years they still work) They have good CLICK, like a mechanical Keyboard. your leMec Buttons are like a mixture off Rubberdome and "i have to touch this buttons into one direction X=0 Y=0 else it want switch" or you could use: https://www.midiphy.com/en/shop-details/140/4/5pcs-matias-quiet-click-tactile-switch- they are cheap but big... (aka take away a lot of Frontpanel space) or maybe you use cherry switches or simulars.... they are all 1000% better then this leMecs... ( you notice i hate them)

adafruit rubber button 4x4

pcb arrive, soldered 4 off them (12 channels) - the 4 others i make a nother time. (24ch in total) the display drivers from Andy work great again! the midibox code is working, the max for live patches too. (at least for this state i am happy to get automaticly the Channels names, and the Macronames!!! hell yeah!)

Hi Therezin, I mounted the monitor upside-down because of the viewing angle. This specific monitor has been designed to be looked at from above. It's actually pretty good from around 10° to 90°, but from 95° to 180°, the visibility is very bad. Therefore i had to reverse it so when i seat behind my desk, i'm in the good range. Let me know if this explanation is not clear enough, it's pretty hard to describe in a foreign language. Thomas

Sure, that should work!

ok i am in austria... so maybe a other one?

So 16 banks in total, right? I'll will try something... After a bit of head scratching and a few glasses of rhums, here you go: first the .ngc : EVENT_BUTTON id= 1 type= Meta meta= DecBank meta= RunSection:1 button_mode= OnOnly #Bank decrease EVENT_BUTTON id= 2 type= Meta meta= IncBank meta= RunSection:1 button_mode= OnOnly #Bank increase EVENT_LED id= 1 range= 1:1 radio_group= 1 #bank1 EVENT_LED id= 2 range= 2:2 radio_group= 1 #bank2 EVENT_LED id= 3 range= 3:3 radio_group= 1 #bank3 EVENT_LED id= 4 range= 4:4 radio_group= 4 #bank4 now for the .ngr : ####### Section 0 ####### if ^section == 0 log "running section0" #initialize all banks to 1 log "call bank 1 for all parameters" set ^bank 1 exit endif ######################### ########## Section 1 ########### #tests for the current bank and lights the corresponding LED if ^section == 1 if ^bank == 1 log "bank 1 selected" set LED:1 1 elseif ^bank == 2 log "bank 2 selected" set LED:2 2 elseif ^bank == 3 log "bank 3 selected" set LED:3 3 elseif ^bank == 4 log "bank 4 selected" set LED:4 4 endif exit endif ################################ I hope it works for you, at least, it behaves as wanted here.

yes, as many as you need, until you reach the 1000 maximum character for a single line. then you can use .ngr script, EVENT_SENDER or EVENT_anything really to trigger even more things.

Hi everyone! Quick update here. I finally finished my controller and installed it in my small control-room. Here it is. I really like the way it turned out, i'm working with it since 2 weeks now, and it's a real bonus to the ergonomics. It still have room for improvements but that was expected and i will continue to work on it in the next future. I'd like to thank everyone on this forum who helped me build this and a BIG thanks to TK and all the midibox team. Without this place I would have never been able to even start this project. Cheers, Thomas

It's not quite clear to me what you want to do? You want to have one J89 SRIO chain and switch between several Cores? If that's right, it is trivial to make a Johnson counter/decade counter out of a 4017 chip. You could think to use the output enable pin(s) of the buffer (541 or 125) that is used to interface the buss to the core. Each Core gets one buffer with the datalines connected to the inputs (+DIN to an output), the outputs are common to the J89 chain (+ the serial in). Advance the counter to "turn on" one chip.

I get the same, but one trick is to highlight the entire contents and "print" the page to PDF. Then you should get the images in line. Best, Andy

After some CRAZY international shipping delays (>4 months), my SwinSID Ultimates have finally shown up! My first observation was "Jeeze, they've jammed a lot of tech into these bad boys", from the top-to-bottom and on both sides... I count two MCUs (an Atmel Mega 168PA and an ATtiny85), plus a Xilinx CPLD (sort of like a small FPGA). Then there's three LEDs (Red, Green and Yellow - one for each SID voice), and that massive crystal oscillator (the SG615). Visually, they come across as being 'a bit over engineered', especially when you compare them to the elegant and pro looking ARM2SIDs. Given all the parts, they wind up costing ~$10 USD more than the ARMSID (assuming you can even find them). We all know that beauty is only skin deep and looks can be deceiving, so best to dig right into the sound quality... I decided it would be easiest (and quickest) to test these from my Ultimate 64, because it has Zif sockets and an integrated SID player that supports stereo tracks (e.g., all the 2SID and 3SID tracks from the High Voltage SID Collection)... As always, interested to hear any thoughts & comments... Notes: The real SIDs are 8580 R5 The SwinSID Ultimates are both configured to emulate 8580 The ARM2SIDs are cable-connected, in "Stereo Socket Mode", with both configured to emulate 8580

Hi guys, I don't know the best for your project but I can explain what I did for the OLRE16. First is the MASK, it's black PMMA. Both sides are milled. I let some space between the leds on the pcb to keep some matters between the leds housing. Led size is 1.5x2mm On the other side(front side) there's some stripes which will fit inside the translucent PMMA, they will block the light between the leds, between the rings and between the rings and the oleds. . Note: the olre16 top pcb(ring) has no component on the top except the leds and the oleds. In blue are the back leds housing. In Red there are the holes. In Yellow, some stripes to block the light on the front, those stripes will fit inside the back of the translucent PMMA. The second part is the 'WINDOW', in translucent white PMMA, it's a LED special one, the same I used for the beat led window of the Seqv4+. The back part will fit inside the MASK, in other word the base of the WINDOW will receive the MASK's stripes, of course the WINDOW's pipes are in front of the MASK's holes. Then the Aluminum front panel comes to finish blocking the light and the pipes of the WINDOW will fit inside the panel, flush the surface. When they are coupled When coupled , assembled the thickness without the pipes height(front panel thickness) doesn't exceed 2.5mm Voilà! I don't know if it will help you and It's surely an "over-engineered" thing but this is the only solution I found, and it works. Best regards Bruno

Hey people, thanks to @TK.! It's working great. Anyway I had still some flickering on the LEDs. As I stated above I left away the caps ... and this was the reason. I know have added a 10uF on the input and on the output-connector of the LED-rings and the flickering is completely eliminated! Great!! So, one core can handle a total of 10 LED (10*36=360) rings....

Hi all, I'm finally finished my MB SEQ V4L V1 from 2011. Sorry for the poor quality. Next step for me: Learn to play Next step for my children: Raspberry PI Touchcreen extension Best regards Jack