Leaderboard

Hey everyone, just wanted to share my latest build since I'm sure there are some 3D printing enthusiasts here like myself. I bought the parts for an MB6582 about 5 years ago, if you remember Meeblip was selling those 8580 SID chips and I picked up 8 of them, and then put everything into a box in a closet . 3D printing has come a very long way since the original MB6582 was created by Wilba. I read that the JB Weld solution may or may not be holding up great after all this time. Also, I wanted to use a Newhaven OLED which is much thinner than the original LCD. I thought there must be a solution to lower the gap distance so why not create some type of spacer for between the front panel and the PCB? I designed all parts in Fusion360. The PCB screws directly into the spacer using M2.5 nuts/screws and plastic screws. The top of it has a flange that rests in the panel groove for the PT-10. Total spacer height is 5.7mm which is the height of the base of the encoders. The front panel is another 1.25mm. Everything is printed out of ASA, which is very strong and heat resistant. I designed the panel graphics in Inkscape and printed on translucent vinyl. I used Davies knobs with small printed skirts to cover up the threads of the encoders since they were exposed. I do not have a vinyl autocutter but I do have an exacto and lots of patience Overall tried going with a 80s beige computer look. A build plate for my printer created the carbon fiber effect on the panel. I'm happy to share the 3D files if anyone could use them.

I read a lot of guides. Successfully compiled ASM code. The OLED display works well with an 8bit driver. If anyone needs the firmware, here is: setup_sammich_sid_8bit.hex

Hey man. It's actually an FR4-Standard PCB. Non aluminium. But seems pretty robust anyway.

From what I gather from the manual and changelog, this LED indicates whether you have selected a „positive values only“ waveform for the LFO (instead of applying the default workaround by showing waveform LED + Random LED). It does not indicate that the value of the LFO is currently positive.

Prompted by a message from freddy, I've attached the project files below. They contain the source and the binaries for the bootloader and the main code. 1.05 is the latest version - there was a fix in the bootloader and the main code. I included some memory in the final hardware design but never got around to doing anything useful with it. I had plans to save one or more demo tunes as MIDI files and perhaps save some settings as profiles for different scenarios - my interests had moved on before that happened. You can find more project info at https://web.archive.org/web/20210206041027/http://www.grapevyne.com/pic.projects/ - the documentation links are all active so you can download the magazine articles and also my original source for the articles (a few errors crept into the magazine article during editing). mistralXG project files.zip mistralBoot.zip

To use Studio on newer Ubuntu Desktops you need to install the old libwebkit2gtk-4.0.so.37. To do so create a sources.list file for apt containing the following line: deb http://gb.archive.ubuntu.com/ubuntu jammy main And install the lib. sudo apt update sudo apt install libwebkit2gtk-4.0-dev After this delete the sources.list file. More infos on https://www.weigu.lu/music/midibox_hp_2x2/index.html

II replaces the remaining ICs and its working! Woohoo!

Thanks, perhaps I'll shoot over to the UK ;-) I've rebuilt the core board now and I'm back where roughly where I started. At least I feel confident I have eliminated the core as a possible cause; the problem must be with my LeMec board. Done some more reflowing on that board and now: - just 4 LEDs light up on power up now - all encoders generate counts when rotated but not depresses - botton left 4 buttons generate no events; bottom right four are working - mattias switches generate events for the four that have illuminated LEDs but not the rest

Hello, When i mute part, i can do it by bottom row (normal known behavior), but also the top row. So it's confusing. Being able to mute only on bottom row will make the workflow more consistant. Or it could also being interesting to be able to mute differently between upper and bottom row. Like top row track 1-16 mute. Bottom row group 1-4 mute. Thanks in advance, Have a good day, Rgds,

Arrived and kicking. Thank u for your service ❤️

New top as requested PM me please, or I can send the details as well.

Thanks for the tpd-test app it really helped me along with this build!.

Thank's for the tip! What I'm looking for is either the fpd file which fits the Heidenreich case or maybe a ready made panel. The fpd file I found in the Wiki seems to be not specifically made for the Heidenreich case. I prever a fpd file which is proven to fit into the Heidenreich case before trying to adapt Wilbas files to the case.

To prove that I have some PCBs here are the images of assembled sammichSIDs and sammichFM, and image of PCB of MB6582. Ideally, I would like to run a 10 pcs batch of MB6582 and for example donate 25% of revenue to Midibox project and to authors. If community and authors will approve it - I can make it. I made sammichSIDs so MB6582 would be better and more interesting. I'm just still curious if it is possible to buy originally expected enclosure. I think it is better to construct a new one using acrylic materials and probably just a PCB with a drawing for a front panel.

If you made your own PCBs using the available schematics, then I think you may be free to sell them to others here, since they're your own derived work. However, you cannot sell the finished and fully assembled sammichSID or MB-6582 synths as commercial product without express permission. Someone else here may want to jump in and correct me if I got that wrong...

maybe its the Ripple off the PSU about your PSU - reichelt specs is saying : "Ondulation résiduelle : 80 mVcàc" i guess this is not a 50Hz ripple but HF ripple... --- i guess some small cap (100nf, 10pF) and a big Cap (depends on the load, use for example a 100uF and a 2200uF) on the output off the PSU would reduce that "ripple"... * maybe that caps are not enough and you need some more filtering (coil, resistor, lpf...) but i would start with some caps... the connections in your 2nd picture are not necessery - i guess (dont seeing the whole picture, but i think so...) --- so picture 1 is correct. by the way - its only the last LED that flickers? maybe you have to terminate the DO line on the very last LED off the Chain with a 10K resistor to 5V or Ground. else it could be a software problem, when the software loops thru the LEDs, and when it comes to the last one it jumps to the beginning off the chain... try to programm in the ng code one more LED (which in reality not exists) - so you can be sure that this is not a software bug... - but dont ask me about ng-programming --- no glue about that. - mike.

Hello, first of all thank you for your previous answers. I haven't fixed the problem with the pads yet. I'm focusing on another problem for now: with the LED rings. with 16 led ring of 16 led no problem. when I add more, the LEDs flicker. https://youtu.be/HyLkVeFtALw?si=gT09lbCxEwLRmHt8 I read here: http://midibox.org/forums/topic/21095-lre-4x1-breakable-rgb-led-ringrotary-encoder-pcb-bulk-order/?do=findComment&comment=184155 FantomXR had flickering problems, solved with a 10uf capacitor. Should I add a 10uf capacitor at the input of my LED ring cards? (as in the image below) (C129) To understand my configuration see the pdfs: LEDRING: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XpDQBUE42IqXpXicO--B2gfIoNQDh5ga/view?usp=drive_link “power card”: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NJ-H-QXD-tl9rU6nbYdEh2Q4jFqjWt6b/view?usp=drive_link I made a PCB that I call a “power card” that I supply with 5v 10 amps. The J2 connector of the "power card" is connected to J4b of core 32. Connector J44 of the first OLED card is connected to J3 of the “power card” Connector J45 of the first OLED card is connected to J4 of the “power card” Connector J44 of the second OLED card is connected to J5 of the “power card” Connector J45 of the second OLED card is connected to J6 of the “power card” etc.. Thank you

j2/j17 should do the trick yes.

the ssd1306 oleds i received where 5V tolerant... the ws2812b is also in a range from 3.3-5.3V, dout modules also needs 5V... so your reichelt psu should do the job, and you could power them directly from the psu... but i guess you power them with the ribbon cables from your core... i dont know what Core you will use? if you use the WCORE from midiphy, then you may ran into some problems when using a external 5V PSU, see this topic: https://forum.midiphy.com/d/151-wcore-non-usb-powerd-but-still-use-as-usb-device/5 also if you are unlucky you will get walking lines on your SSD1306 screens... then it best it would to buffer each D0 D1 Clock... Pins, which are done for example in this module: http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=displaydriver-smd a plus is then you can then use more then 8 screens!

Hi Long time I don't play with NG config, but It should be possible with enc_mode=Inc41_Dec3F , combined with fwd to 2 sender and conditional filtering, something like if_equal=0x41 send note A, and if_equal=0x3F send note B ?

maybe by removing the pull-Hi resistor off the HC165 Circuit, and using a Inverter on its inputs for example: https://www.mouser.at/ProductDetail/Nexperia/74HCT1G14GW-Q100H?qs=SKY61BOKKY4Uv%2FaFLc8SsQ%3D%3D https://www.mouser.at/datasheet/2/916/74HC_HCT1G14_Q100-2937184.pdf (just a example maybe there are better parts for this porpuse, and i dont know how hard to solder this one is) that would reverse Lo and Hi, and you could use this bloddy 3 LEDs ( where i think thats not a good idea, the Encoder is expensive - and not really a standard part...) but for that quick idea i would prototype that first (order a inverter, order a Encoder, make wires without pcb) ... specially iff any pull hi or pull low resistors are needet elsewhere, i guess you need a 10K pull-low resistor (to ground) on pin 3 off your Encoder then: HC165 > Inverter > Pull-Low + Pin3 since i have not much time these times, and you have plenty off modules what module i should check next? i just had a look on your 4x2 Enc RGB SW Led ring Rgb render here... and i am not 100% sure that the inbuilt RGB LEDs that enlighten the Encodersshaft dont shine on the LED-Ring and make them hard too read (maybe need some lightshielding)... by the way hard too read, those Alps Knobs are a bit big for that small Ledring - can you still see the LEDs when looking from a angle that is not 100% from top?

Yes, absolutely. Please PM me for details, ideally including your location so I can give you a shipping quote if interested.

Yes you usually need a metallized knob to make the touch detection usable !!!

Looks very nice and neat .I didnt know you are so busy with things . (Thank you for your support). I was working a lot with max/msp and m4l too. Its a lot of fun , but it takes a lot of time as well :) . Enjoy and keep up this amazing work.

could be... you can try to filter out some psu-spikes by soldering a 100nf (maybe add also a 1uF or higher for too more stabilize the psu as addition) cap between + and - on the potis legs (most off the time these are the outer 2 legs off the trio)

@poti; if the shaft's center is in the end on the same position - so same frontpanel holes can be used.... and: when soldering the thing: first mount the pcbs with loose potis on the frontpanel then solder it (and document this in the "how too build"... @ - : use thermal destress traces (cant remember the kicad word) when using groundplanes, so you can desolder the the poti much easier.

control hardware yes, if it is well documentadet on the wiki (shematic, board screenshot) I too work with kicad since decades... and very sucessfull now with my actual projects - i was wondering but i planed it in kicad, and most off the boards where working 100% out off the Box (pick and place JLCPCB), ok i had a design fault on one, but that was solved with a wire-done. actual projects http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=triggermatrix5 http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=daw-ableton http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=openpad software: cant help, write my own Mios-based code, havent look into MidiboxNG - since it is a script, for me more easy to write it directly in C, (need to understand all, else i understand/learn nothing...) - so no help from this side had good expierences with jlcpcb... also with the Pick and Place service FrontPanels: maybe cheap CNC-Laser-Cutting from pcbway? https://www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/CNC-machining/CNC-Laser-Cutting-Services.html suggestions? Maybe use Eurorackformat, so it can be used outside of your box too? suggestion, where usefull (wo sinnvoll) use J89 Serial Chain directly onboard (like encoder with ledring boards) to reduce wireing - a simple button board dont needs that of course.... *** if you go the Serial Chain way, then buffer the Serial chain on each module to keep the digital Signal Quality intact (very necessery) *** buffer: search for SN74LVC1G17DBVR in this shematic: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=phatline:blm16x16-shematic.pdf maybe use pick and place ready smd technologoy like i did: that makes it smaller, and less to solder, less to debug, the plastic packages stays in china, more economical special when ordering more pcbs, by that of course a module should fit all the boxes (a exotic 1 man needs it module 10times fabricated is 9 too much...) i think i dont have to say, that you should choose "Basic" Parts, and not "extendet parts" on JLCPCB, - off course on most modules you have at least one or two extendeet parts... but for example a DINX4 or DOUTX4 can be made with basic parts only... but when you also want to pick and place all the pin headers - these are extendet parts, how ever ... you may look on my last modules a bit http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=tm5-dindoutgate http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=doutx2dinx1 if you use long cables to your Displays + u use more displays then one - on the modules, use a display driver (no more walking lines) http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=displaydriver-smd what else? if you make ground or other PCB-Planes, then setup kicad that it make 1-2mm space arround solderpoints - else the Soldering Man could make shorts, or electrocemical oxidations or solder flux-low-residance could make there some problems (after years), special when the Solderstop-Pain is scratched a bit... ... and so on... PS i hate this wooble feeling off this LeMec Buttons (the last board you posted) - these Buttons are not good (for my taste) I love to work with this ones: https://www.reichelt.de/at/de/eingabetaster-schaltspannung-24v-fuer-led-sw-dtl-2-sw-p7248.html?&trstct=pos_0&nbc=1 they are expensive, but they last decades (in use, and also if you order 300 off them and let them lye arround, after 15 years they still work) They have good CLICK, like a mechanical Keyboard. your leMec Buttons are like a mixture off Rubberdome and "i have to touch this buttons into one direction X=0 Y=0 else it want switch" or you could use: https://www.midiphy.com/en/shop-details/140/4/5pcs-matias-quiet-click-tactile-switch- they are cheap but big... (aka take away a lot of Frontpanel space) or maybe you use cherry switches or simulars.... they are all 1000% better then this leMecs... ( you notice i hate them)

PM sent!

Oh, wow, I totally missed that! Thank you!!! I wasted an entire day rummaging around and didn't manage to see that :) Just in case others run across this: You want 4SPI configuration, not IIC like I have in the pic. The number of screens you have must match the configuration you set in the bootloader, otherwise you get noise, and won't be able to write to all the lines/columns Also easy to miss, but for the 1306 RES connection, you need to wire it up like this (again, connections on your 1306 PCB): GND -> 10uf cap -> 1k resistor -> VCC. Once done, RES will be tied to where the cap and resistor meet (like this) It wasn't clear to me how to actually use the bootloader for the STMF4 board, but it's essentially: Plugin your board as you normally do Open MIOS Studio Click Browse and choose the mios32_bootloader app (download here) Click Start. If it won't complete, try unpluging/pluging the board and trying again Unplug/plugin the board In the MIDI IN and MIDI OUT sections whatever app you had prior to all of this might be listed, but it doesn't actually exist (and it shouldn't). That's why you now see the error "No response...". The new app, MIOS32, took its place and you need to refresh to see it. Click Application -> Rescan MIDI Devices Click Understood in the pop-up (this will make your old app disappear, and the MIOS32 app show up) Change MIDI IN and MIDI OUT to MIOS32 Enter these one by one into the input box: (send a command to MIOS32 application). Keep in mind lcd_num_x must match the number you have chained: set lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306 set lcd_num_x 1 set lcd_num_y 1 set lcd_width 128 set lcd_height 64 store Yah. Bootloader is done. Time to restore your app in MIOS Studio: Click Browse and choose whatever app you want, like midibox_ng Click Start. Like the bootloader, if it won't complete, try unpluging/pluging the board and trying again Unplug/plugin the board Now for some test display data. Lets set some values for your SSD1306 OLED's in MIOS Studio: Click on Tools -> MIOS32 File Browser Click Create File Create some name like LCD.NGC Click Update Click on the file you just created Click Edit Text and add the following test example: RESET_HW LCD "%C" LCD "@(1:1:1)A23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:2)B23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:3)C23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:4)D23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:5)E23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:6)F23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:7)G23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:8)H23456789012345678901234567890" Click Save You should now have 8 rows and 21 columns of text. If you need to flip it 180 degrees, you can redo the steps above and add set lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306_ROTATED before you store.

Did you adjust the bootloader for the SSD1306? See here http://ucapps.de/midibox_ng_manual_lcd.html

ok next step... "Mute" & Solo Buttons needs some external DINX and DOUTX boards (in order to make the SRIO-Gain short)

pcb arrive, soldered 4 off them (12 channels) - the 4 others i make a nother time. (24ch in total) the display drivers from Andy work great again! the midibox code is working, the max for live patches too. (at least for this state i am happy to get automaticly the Channels names, and the Macronames!!! hell yeah!)

Notwithstanding a possible bridge day, last Friday of the month (27.05.22 / 7:30pm), online: We organize our regular Open Hardware Happy Hour (O3H) again! This month’s topic is Open Music, since Open Hardware is of course also a topic in the field of electronic music devices (and more and more on the rise). Among other things, we will present the sample sequencer by SucoFunk, The beatmakers’s sketchbook, an Open Hardware device that was also featured at this year’s Superbooth. We have asked for other speakers, so be prepared to be surprised, and bring your own (music) projects! Presenters will include Marc Berendes, Berlin-based Open Hardware developer at SucoFunk. Marc Berendes: The beatmakers’s sketchbook – An open sample sequencer for beats on-the-go (https://sucofunk.com/) (tba) Language of the presentations will probably be German this time. Link Call: https://bbb.cyber4edu.org/b/dan-gi4-bxg-p1v Blog: https://hardware.prototypefund.de/o3h-meetup-zu-open-music/

Salut bruno, on fait comment pour t'en acheter un ? ;o)

Sure, that should work!

ok i am in austria... so maybe a other one?

So 16 banks in total, right? I'll will try something... After a bit of head scratching and a few glasses of rhums, here you go: first the .ngc : EVENT_BUTTON id= 1 type= Meta meta= DecBank meta= RunSection:1 button_mode= OnOnly #Bank decrease EVENT_BUTTON id= 2 type= Meta meta= IncBank meta= RunSection:1 button_mode= OnOnly #Bank increase EVENT_LED id= 1 range= 1:1 radio_group= 1 #bank1 EVENT_LED id= 2 range= 2:2 radio_group= 1 #bank2 EVENT_LED id= 3 range= 3:3 radio_group= 1 #bank3 EVENT_LED id= 4 range= 4:4 radio_group= 4 #bank4 now for the .ngr : ####### Section 0 ####### if ^section == 0 log "running section0" #initialize all banks to 1 log "call bank 1 for all parameters" set ^bank 1 exit endif ######################### ########## Section 1 ########### #tests for the current bank and lights the corresponding LED if ^section == 1 if ^bank == 1 log "bank 1 selected" set LED:1 1 elseif ^bank == 2 log "bank 2 selected" set LED:2 2 elseif ^bank == 3 log "bank 3 selected" set LED:3 3 elseif ^bank == 4 log "bank 4 selected" set LED:4 4 endif exit endif ################################ I hope it works for you, at least, it behaves as wanted here.

yes, as many as you need, until you reach the 1000 maximum character for a single line. then you can use .ngr script, EVENT_SENDER or EVENT_anything really to trigger even more things.

Hi everyone! Quick update here. I finally finished my controller and installed it in my small control-room. Here it is. I really like the way it turned out, i'm working with it since 2 weeks now, and it's a real bonus to the ergonomics. It still have room for improvements but that was expected and i will continue to work on it in the next future. I'd like to thank everyone on this forum who helped me build this and a BIG thanks to TK and all the midibox team. Without this place I would have never been able to even start this project. Cheers, Thomas

I get the same, but one trick is to highlight the entire contents and "print" the page to PDF. Then you should get the images in line. Best, Andy

Quick heads up on this for anyone that might wanna do this. I had some trouble compiling the above version for Linux Mint 19.3. Couple things you might need to do: ./configure --without-residfp This was giving me a weird "you need to be on a 32-bit platform at least" error (I'm on 64-bit, Ryzen) but we don't need this for outputting to an MBSID anyway The makefiles do not add -pthread. There's probably a more elegant way to fix this, but I just edited src/Makefile and added `-pthread` to the end of CFLAGS, CXXFLAGS and that seemed to avoid the errors You may need to symlink /usr/local/lib64/vice to /usr/local/lib if installing system wide (otherwise stuff like keyboard input doesn't work) You need the ROMs of course! Doing all this allowed me to bust out the HVSC intros included in the collection. Seems to work like a champ!

Hey people, thanks to @TK.! It's working great. Anyway I had still some flickering on the LEDs. As I stated above I left away the caps ... and this was the reason. I know have added a 10uF on the input and on the output-connector of the LED-rings and the flickering is completely eliminated! Great!! So, one core can handle a total of 10 LED (10*36=360) rings....

Good. Maybe someone need good midi samples for beatmaking www.lucidsamples.com/edm-samples-packs/278-edm-magical-midis-vol-3.html and https://www.loopmasters.com/search?q=midi

Small nitpick, Arkay, and I feel bad for saying it, as I'm not one of those spelling nazis on forums, but you're missing a comma, there shouldn't be a "." before "but" and it's "nazis" not "nazi's". Please stop doing that.