Leaderboard

Hey everyone, just wanted to share my latest build since I'm sure there are some 3D printing enthusiasts here like myself. I bought the parts for an MB6582 about 5 years ago, if you remember Meeblip was selling those 8580 SID chips and I picked up 8 of them, and then put everything into a box in a closet . 3D printing has come a very long way since the original MB6582 was created by Wilba. I read that the JB Weld solution may or may not be holding up great after all this time. Also, I wanted to use a Newhaven OLED which is much thinner than the original LCD. I thought there must be a solution to lower the gap distance so why not create some type of spacer for between the front panel and the PCB? I designed all parts in Fusion360. The PCB screws directly into the spacer using M2.5 nuts/screws and plastic screws. The top of it has a flange that rests in the panel groove for the PT-10. Total spacer height is 5.7mm which is the height of the base of the encoders. The front panel is another 1.25mm. Everything is printed out of ASA, which is very strong and heat resistant. I designed the panel graphics in Inkscape and printed on translucent vinyl. I used Davies knobs with small printed skirts to cover up the threads of the encoders since they were exposed. I do not have a vinyl autocutter but I do have an exacto and lots of patience Overall tried going with a 80s beige computer look. A build plate for my printer created the carbon fiber effect on the panel. I'm happy to share the 3D files if anyone could use them.

I read a lot of guides. Successfully compiled ASM code. The OLED display works well with an 8bit driver. If anyone needs the firmware, here is: setup_sammich_sid_8bit.hex

Hey man. It's actually an FR4-Standard PCB. Non aluminium. But seems pretty robust anyway.

Hello everyone! Over the past few months, I’ve engineered a brand-new MB6582-style synthesizer, deeply inspired by the original Midibox MB6582 but redesigned completely from scratch for improved reliability, easier assembly, and modern component availability. Key new features: Premium ENIG front panel PCB - durable, professional finish 4 PIC cores onboard - full MB6582-compatible architecture Factory-manufactured PCB set, including the front panel Supports ArmSID, Kung Fu SID, or original 6581/6582/8580 chips Clean internal layout, solid build, and high-quality components Prices: Base unit: 420 EUR + shipping With Kung Fu SID set: 499 EUR ArmSID pricing available upon request. Availability: The license allows producing 10 units, so I’m offering 9 units for sale. 1 unit is in stock right now Additional units can be assembled in 3-4 weeks If I receive permission to sell more broadly, I plan to lower the price and release all design files as open source I will make a separate thread in Latest News or somewhere else Photos PCBs and components:

Hello how much will cost the mb6582? and also If you plan to build a sammichFM let me know

Apologies everyone I just saw these messages. I will make a note of gathering the files tonight and uploading them to the appropriate section here (Thanks Smithy). Thanks everyone for the kind words :)

DM sent

Reflowed the ttasnsistors on the top side and now I am back to 12 LEDs on. I'm assuming the LEDs shouldn't be on, but otherwise that feels like an improvement as it means I get mattias switch events for 12 of 16. I'm also getting events for depresses on the right 4 encoders although they seem a bit random in the actual event details. I've also replaced IC2, IC3 and T3 based on advice from ChatGPT but that made no difference.

Cool solution, looks great! The skirts for the knobs are a nice touch. One thing I wonder about is if heat would build up here, as the free air space in the case is less and the panel is also an insulator. The SIDs are on another PCB of course.

Hi Niles, I still have original mb6582 encoders, bulk ordered and sent by Wilba. Working perfectly! Would you like some? Best

Arrived and kicking. Thank u for your service ❤️

Confirmed over here, no humanizer being applied to CC’s. I tried with an empty track sending layer A as CC on buss 1, and another track listing to buss 1. The listening track was responding to the cc’s, but humanizer did not effect the CC’s. Then moved the cc to layer B (usually the velocity layer) and still no changing of CC’s sent. steve

If you made your own PCBs using the available schematics, then I think you may be free to sell them to others here, since they're your own derived work. However, you cannot sell the finished and fully assembled sammichSID or MB-6582 synths as commercial product without express permission. Someone else here may want to jump in and correct me if I got that wrong...

Just a small necro-bump :-) …by now we are roughly 150 people over there with some occasional chatting going on. Feel free to drop by!

maybe its the Ripple off the PSU about your PSU - reichelt specs is saying : "Ondulation résiduelle : 80 mVcàc" i guess this is not a 50Hz ripple but HF ripple... --- i guess some small cap (100nf, 10pF) and a big Cap (depends on the load, use for example a 100uF and a 2200uF) on the output off the PSU would reduce that "ripple"... * maybe that caps are not enough and you need some more filtering (coil, resistor, lpf...) but i would start with some caps... the connections in your 2nd picture are not necessery - i guess (dont seeing the whole picture, but i think so...) --- so picture 1 is correct. by the way - its only the last LED that flickers? maybe you have to terminate the DO line on the very last LED off the Chain with a 10K resistor to 5V or Ground. else it could be a software problem, when the software loops thru the LEDs, and when it comes to the last one it jumps to the beginning off the chain... try to programm in the ng code one more LED (which in reality not exists) - so you can be sure that this is not a software bug... - but dont ask me about ng-programming --- no glue about that. - mike.

the next generation off Triggermatrix, with insights to shematic, the board-files i will not set free... the Pictures from the Boards are for debugging reasons only. where possible, i made pick and place ready boards - to reduce soldering time... at this point the big BLM16x16 board is not pick and place ready. WIKI: Triggermatrix 5 Display-Driver-SMD BLM16x16-V2 Core 4 Discovery Core 4 Disc - Midi Expansion TM5-codeblock TM5 Din Dout Gates TM5 Gate - Breakoutboards TM5 Gate - In TM5-Housing

Hi Long time I don't play with NG config, but It should be possible with enc_mode=Inc41_Dec3F , combined with fwd to 2 sender and conditional filtering, something like if_equal=0x41 send note A, and if_equal=0x3F send note B ?

@ Faderboard 1 & 2 Mounting holes labeling not necessery again. rest is ok. you may could label + and - beside the 2x5 shroudet Pinheaders, so there is no chance someone reverse it in a way... in generell... normally the Nose- says all, but someone could crimp the cable incorrect... so if he controll measure, this is a good hint then for him.

@ potentiometer: looking good, but labeling the Holes is not necessery (i think) :

hei i stripped down the BLM-Project (so it cant be cloned with out weeks off routing U B ;) ) BLM-how-to.zip and i wrote some explaination... basicly i made a Grid with a center-cross - so a single button-LED-Fottprint can be placed correct to the Rubber-Button-Grid... you may have to set a a new "zero position off the Kicad Grid" to this crosses when you place the Button-LED-Fottprint on them... this Grid also have the Holes for the PCB which are needet to hold the rubber in Position.. maybe you find a "Flip-Chip" Variant for your RGB-LED... it would be better... you should not place it on the TOP side off the PCB... because it will illuminate the Neightbar-Button-Rubbers... The Hole in the PCB where the LEDs shine thru, act as a Light-Shield... I too have to draw a RGB-LED board (for a other Task, to illuminate a Frontpanel...), since i dont have expierence with that RGB-LEDs... this will take a while... if you found a solution i would copy it from you.... At Kicad 7... didnt know there is a stable out... good to know... will update too (else i cant check your projects)

That's absolutely glorious Peter! Nice work (as always!)

You can leave off the USB, it's only an additional +5V power option selectable by jumper..

@Hawkeye I have never seen those tutorials before! don't know how I missed that, there is a wealth of info there. Following the tutorial the transpose works, under the scheme laid out in the tutorial. I will try the Root method next and report back. Thanks!

Yes you usually need a metallized knob to make the touch detection usable !!!

look into ng documentation if there can be set a offset for the middle position so it stays on a position... because pots directly to the core is always a bit random... better use for example: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_ainser8.html then you have less random values also check the quality off PSU...off course a faulty pot can be the reason too

@ cherry: the switch itself you can get already from eg https://www.reichelt.de/tastaturzubehoer-c8099.html?ACTION=2&GROUPID=8099&SEARCH=*&START=16&OFFSET=16&CCOUNTRY=445&LANGUAGE=de&r=1&SID=967792150a00d890464504461a66ae529d97182e528c945af4544 caps: amazon, alibaba,.maybe.some thing like that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FYO8EDC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=flat%2Bkeycaps&qid=1675511770&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1 https://www.cherrymx.de/en/dev.html the low profile is maybe interesting....

control hardware yes, if it is well documentadet on the wiki (shematic, board screenshot) I too work with kicad since decades... and very sucessfull now with my actual projects - i was wondering but i planed it in kicad, and most off the boards where working 100% out off the Box (pick and place JLCPCB), ok i had a design fault on one, but that was solved with a wire-done. actual projects http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=triggermatrix5 http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=daw-ableton http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=openpad software: cant help, write my own Mios-based code, havent look into MidiboxNG - since it is a script, for me more easy to write it directly in C, (need to understand all, else i understand/learn nothing...) - so no help from this side had good expierences with jlcpcb... also with the Pick and Place service FrontPanels: maybe cheap CNC-Laser-Cutting from pcbway? https://www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/CNC-machining/CNC-Laser-Cutting-Services.html suggestions? Maybe use Eurorackformat, so it can be used outside of your box too? suggestion, where usefull (wo sinnvoll) use J89 Serial Chain directly onboard (like encoder with ledring boards) to reduce wireing - a simple button board dont needs that of course.... *** if you go the Serial Chain way, then buffer the Serial chain on each module to keep the digital Signal Quality intact (very necessery) *** buffer: search for SN74LVC1G17DBVR in this shematic: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=phatline:blm16x16-shematic.pdf maybe use pick and place ready smd technologoy like i did: that makes it smaller, and less to solder, less to debug, the plastic packages stays in china, more economical special when ordering more pcbs, by that of course a module should fit all the boxes (a exotic 1 man needs it module 10times fabricated is 9 too much...) i think i dont have to say, that you should choose "Basic" Parts, and not "extendet parts" on JLCPCB, - off course on most modules you have at least one or two extendeet parts... but for example a DINX4 or DOUTX4 can be made with basic parts only... but when you also want to pick and place all the pin headers - these are extendet parts, how ever ... you may look on my last modules a bit http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=tm5-dindoutgate http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=doutx2dinx1 if you use long cables to your Displays + u use more displays then one - on the modules, use a display driver (no more walking lines) http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=displaydriver-smd what else? if you make ground or other PCB-Planes, then setup kicad that it make 1-2mm space arround solderpoints - else the Soldering Man could make shorts, or electrocemical oxidations or solder flux-low-residance could make there some problems (after years), special when the Solderstop-Pain is scratched a bit... ... and so on... PS i hate this wooble feeling off this LeMec Buttons (the last board you posted) - these Buttons are not good (for my taste) I love to work with this ones: https://www.reichelt.de/at/de/eingabetaster-schaltspannung-24v-fuer-led-sw-dtl-2-sw-p7248.html?&trstct=pos_0&nbc=1 they are expensive, but they last decades (in use, and also if you order 300 off them and let them lye arround, after 15 years they still work) They have good CLICK, like a mechanical Keyboard. your leMec Buttons are like a mixture off Rubberdome and "i have to touch this buttons into one direction X=0 Y=0 else it want switch" or you could use: https://www.midiphy.com/en/shop-details/140/4/5pcs-matias-quiet-click-tactile-switch- they are cheap but big... (aka take away a lot of Frontpanel space) or maybe you use cherry switches or simulars.... they are all 1000% better then this leMecs... ( you notice i hate them)

PM sent!

adafruit rubber button 4x4

Oh, wow, I totally missed that! Thank you!!! I wasted an entire day rummaging around and didn't manage to see that :) Just in case others run across this: You want 4SPI configuration, not IIC like I have in the pic. The number of screens you have must match the configuration you set in the bootloader, otherwise you get noise, and won't be able to write to all the lines/columns Also easy to miss, but for the 1306 RES connection, you need to wire it up like this (again, connections on your 1306 PCB): GND -> 10uf cap -> 1k resistor -> VCC. Once done, RES will be tied to where the cap and resistor meet (like this) It wasn't clear to me how to actually use the bootloader for the STMF4 board, but it's essentially: Plugin your board as you normally do Open MIOS Studio Click Browse and choose the mios32_bootloader app (download here) Click Start. If it won't complete, try unpluging/pluging the board and trying again Unplug/plugin the board In the MIDI IN and MIDI OUT sections whatever app you had prior to all of this might be listed, but it doesn't actually exist (and it shouldn't). That's why you now see the error "No response...". The new app, MIOS32, took its place and you need to refresh to see it. Click Application -> Rescan MIDI Devices Click Understood in the pop-up (this will make your old app disappear, and the MIOS32 app show up) Change MIDI IN and MIDI OUT to MIOS32 Enter these one by one into the input box: (send a command to MIOS32 application). Keep in mind lcd_num_x must match the number you have chained: set lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306 set lcd_num_x 1 set lcd_num_y 1 set lcd_width 128 set lcd_height 64 store Yah. Bootloader is done. Time to restore your app in MIOS Studio: Click Browse and choose whatever app you want, like midibox_ng Click Start. Like the bootloader, if it won't complete, try unpluging/pluging the board and trying again Unplug/plugin the board Now for some test display data. Lets set some values for your SSD1306 OLED's in MIOS Studio: Click on Tools -> MIOS32 File Browser Click Create File Create some name like LCD.NGC Click Update Click on the file you just created Click Edit Text and add the following test example: RESET_HW LCD "%C" LCD "@(1:1:1)A23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:2)B23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:3)C23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:4)D23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:5)E23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:6)F23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:7)G23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:8)H23456789012345678901234567890" Click Save You should now have 8 rows and 21 columns of text. If you need to flip it 180 degrees, you can redo the steps above and add set lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306_ROTATED before you store.

Did you adjust the bootloader for the SSD1306? See here http://ucapps.de/midibox_ng_manual_lcd.html

ok next step... "Mute" & Solo Buttons needs some external DINX and DOUTX boards (in order to make the SRIO-Gain short)

pcb arrive, soldered 4 off them (12 channels) - the 4 others i make a nother time. (24ch in total) the display drivers from Andy work great again! the midibox code is working, the max for live patches too. (at least for this state i am happy to get automaticly the Channels names, and the Macronames!!! hell yeah!)

Notwithstanding a possible bridge day, last Friday of the month (27.05.22 / 7:30pm), online: We organize our regular Open Hardware Happy Hour (O3H) again! This month’s topic is Open Music, since Open Hardware is of course also a topic in the field of electronic music devices (and more and more on the rise). Among other things, we will present the sample sequencer by SucoFunk, The beatmakers’s sketchbook, an Open Hardware device that was also featured at this year’s Superbooth. We have asked for other speakers, so be prepared to be surprised, and bring your own (music) projects! Presenters will include Marc Berendes, Berlin-based Open Hardware developer at SucoFunk. Marc Berendes: The beatmakers’s sketchbook – An open sample sequencer for beats on-the-go (https://sucofunk.com/) (tba) Language of the presentations will probably be German this time. Link Call: https://bbb.cyber4edu.org/b/dan-gi4-bxg-p1v Blog: https://hardware.prototypefund.de/o3h-meetup-zu-open-music/

Oh si il est polyphonique ! Tu as 8 voies simultanées que tu peux router vers un canal/port midi dédié ! - Yes it it polyphonic, you have 8 simultaneous voices you can route on a dedicated midi channel/port !

So 16 banks in total, right? I'll will try something... After a bit of head scratching and a few glasses of rhums, here you go: first the .ngc : EVENT_BUTTON id= 1 type= Meta meta= DecBank meta= RunSection:1 button_mode= OnOnly #Bank decrease EVENT_BUTTON id= 2 type= Meta meta= IncBank meta= RunSection:1 button_mode= OnOnly #Bank increase EVENT_LED id= 1 range= 1:1 radio_group= 1 #bank1 EVENT_LED id= 2 range= 2:2 radio_group= 1 #bank2 EVENT_LED id= 3 range= 3:3 radio_group= 1 #bank3 EVENT_LED id= 4 range= 4:4 radio_group= 4 #bank4 now for the .ngr : ####### Section 0 ####### if ^section == 0 log "running section0" #initialize all banks to 1 log "call bank 1 for all parameters" set ^bank 1 exit endif ######################### ########## Section 1 ########### #tests for the current bank and lights the corresponding LED if ^section == 1 if ^bank == 1 log "bank 1 selected" set LED:1 1 elseif ^bank == 2 log "bank 2 selected" set LED:2 2 elseif ^bank == 3 log "bank 3 selected" set LED:3 3 elseif ^bank == 4 log "bank 4 selected" set LED:4 4 endif exit endif ################################ I hope it works for you, at least, it behaves as wanted here.

yes, as many as you need, until you reach the 1000 maximum character for a single line. then you can use .ngr script, EVENT_SENDER or EVENT_anything really to trigger even more things.

Hi ssp, Two things: First, you need to change the id of the second controller: # Bank 1 EVENT_AINSER id=1 hw_id =1 bank=1 fwd_to_lcd=1 type=CC chn=1 cc=16 range=0:127 offset=0 lcd_pos=2:1:1 label="FDR1 #%3i %3d@(2:1:2)%B" #Bank 2 EVENT_AINSER id=1001 hw_id =1 bank=2 fwd_to_lcd=1 type=CC chn=1 cc=17 range=0:127 offset=0 lcd_pos=2:1:1 label="FDR2 #%3i %3d@(2:1:2)%B" Otherwise, Midibox might get confused, all EVENT_xxx must have a unique id. Unless they are of different types. for example you can have EVENT_LED id=1 and EVENT_AINSER id=1 Second: To light an led for each bank you need the button that sets the bank to forward info to the respective LED. for example: # select Bank1 directly EVENT_BUTTON id=1 fwd_id= LED:1 type=Meta meta=SetBank button_mode=OnOnly range=1:1 # select Bank2 directly EVENT_BUTTON id=2 fwd_id= LED:2 type=Meta meta=SetBank button_mode=OnOnly range=2:2 #LEDS EVENTS EVENT_LED id= 1 range= 1:1 radio_group= 1 EVENT_LED id= 2 range= 2:2 radio_group=1 The radio group makes sure only one LED turns on I also put the switches in the same radio_group on my config, but i'm not certain it's mandatory. now, i didn't use cycle_bank, inc_bank or dec_bank but you can take a look at those examples config to see if you find something interesting: https://github.com/midibox/mios32/tree/master/apps/controllers/midibox_ng_v1/cfg/tests And also, i found usefull to add #initialize all banks to 1 log "call bank 1 for all parameters" set ^bank 1 to the section 0 of my .ngr script. this ensure that all parameters are set to bank 1 at startup.

Hi everyone! Quick update here. I finally finished my controller and installed it in my small control-room. Here it is. I really like the way it turned out, i'm working with it since 2 weeks now, and it's a real bonus to the ergonomics. It still have room for improvements but that was expected and i will continue to work on it in the next future. I'd like to thank everyone on this forum who helped me build this and a BIG thanks to TK and all the midibox team. Without this place I would have never been able to even start this project. Cheers, Thomas

Jeannie & Volca in Love Link: https://www.tubeohm.com/

Hi guys, I don't know the best for your project but I can explain what I did for the OLRE16. First is the MASK, it's black PMMA. Both sides are milled. I let some space between the leds on the pcb to keep some matters between the leds housing. Led size is 1.5x2mm On the other side(front side) there's some stripes which will fit inside the translucent PMMA, they will block the light between the leds, between the rings and between the rings and the oleds. . Note: the olre16 top pcb(ring) has no component on the top except the leds and the oleds. In blue are the back leds housing. In Red there are the holes. In Yellow, some stripes to block the light on the front, those stripes will fit inside the back of the translucent PMMA. The second part is the 'WINDOW', in translucent white PMMA, it's a LED special one, the same I used for the beat led window of the Seqv4+. The back part will fit inside the MASK, in other word the base of the WINDOW will receive the MASK's stripes, of course the WINDOW's pipes are in front of the MASK's holes. Then the Aluminum front panel comes to finish blocking the light and the pipes of the WINDOW will fit inside the panel, flush the surface. When they are coupled When coupled , assembled the thickness without the pipes height(front panel thickness) doesn't exceed 2.5mm Voilà! I don't know if it will help you and It's surely an "over-engineered" thing but this is the only solution I found, and it works. Best regards Bruno

Hey people, thanks to @TK.! It's working great. Anyway I had still some flickering on the LEDs. As I stated above I left away the caps ... and this was the reason. I know have added a 10uF on the input and on the output-connector of the LED-rings and the flickering is completely eliminated! Great!! So, one core can handle a total of 10 LED (10*36=360) rings....

Hi all, I'm finally finished my MB SEQ V4L V1 from 2011. Sorry for the poor quality. Next step for me: Learn to play Next step for my children: Raspberry PI Touchcreen extension Best regards Jack

Small nitpick, Arkay, and I feel bad for saying it, as I'm not one of those spelling nazis on forums, but you're missing a comma, there shouldn't be a "." before "but" and it's "nazis" not "nazi's". Please stop doing that.