Leaderboard

I read a lot of guides. Successfully compiled ASM code. The OLED display works well with an 8bit driver. If anyone needs the firmware, here is: setup_sammich_sid_8bit.hex

Hey man. It's actually an FR4-Standard PCB. Non aluminium. But seems pretty robust anyway.

maybe its the Ripple off the PSU about your PSU - reichelt specs is saying : "Ondulation résiduelle : 80 mVcàc" i guess this is not a 50Hz ripple but HF ripple... --- i guess some small cap (100nf, 10pF) and a big Cap (depends on the load, use for example a 100uF and a 2200uF) on the output off the PSU would reduce that "ripple"... * maybe that caps are not enough and you need some more filtering (coil, resistor, lpf...) but i would start with some caps... the connections in your 2nd picture are not necessery - i guess (dont seeing the whole picture, but i think so...) --- so picture 1 is correct. by the way - its only the last LED that flickers? maybe you have to terminate the DO line on the very last LED off the Chain with a 10K resistor to 5V or Ground. else it could be a software problem, when the software loops thru the LEDs, and when it comes to the last one it jumps to the beginning off the chain... try to programm in the ng code one more LED (which in reality not exists) - so you can be sure that this is not a software bug... - but dont ask me about ng-programming --- no glue about that. - mike.

Hello, first of all thank you for your previous answers. I haven't fixed the problem with the pads yet. I'm focusing on another problem for now: with the LED rings. with 16 led ring of 16 led no problem. when I add more, the LEDs flicker. https://youtu.be/HyLkVeFtALw?si=gT09lbCxEwLRmHt8 I read here: http://midibox.org/forums/topic/21095-lre-4x1-breakable-rgb-led-ringrotary-encoder-pcb-bulk-order/?do=findComment&comment=184155 FantomXR had flickering problems, solved with a 10uf capacitor. Should I add a 10uf capacitor at the input of my LED ring cards? (as in the image below) (C129) To understand my configuration see the pdfs: LEDRING: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XpDQBUE42IqXpXicO--B2gfIoNQDh5ga/view?usp=drive_link “power card”: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NJ-H-QXD-tl9rU6nbYdEh2Q4jFqjWt6b/view?usp=drive_link I made a PCB that I call a “power card” that I supply with 5v 10 amps. The J2 connector of the "power card" is connected to J4b of core 32. Connector J44 of the first OLED card is connected to J3 of the “power card” Connector J45 of the first OLED card is connected to J4 of the “power card” Connector J44 of the second OLED card is connected to J5 of the “power card” Connector J45 of the second OLED card is connected to J6 of the “power card” etc.. Thank you

Hi all , Was wondering about opening a KiCAD Section in the wiki? For tutorials , midibox libs etc... where should i put it? regards, JK Edit : A Frontpanel designer section could be useful too ?That's a soft that i think most of us use? Maybe create a "Softwares" Section?

i made a passive design, since the fan which came from mouser, was dead from the beginning... since it is a 6582, it was not going very hot anyway... but i drilled Holes into the pcb under the SID-Sockets, and cut aways some plastic from the socket too. i too drilled some holes in the plastic body under the Main-PCB too, the backside off the SID should be enough to get rid off the hot air...

j2/j17 should do the trick yes.

Hi Long time I don't play with NG config, but It should be possible with enc_mode=Inc41_Dec3F , combined with fwd to 2 sender and conditional filtering, something like if_equal=0x41 send note A, and if_equal=0x3F send note B ?

@ Faderboard 1 & 2 Mounting holes labeling not necessery again. rest is ok. you may could label + and - beside the 2x5 shroudet Pinheaders, so there is no chance someone reverse it in a way... in generell... normally the Nose- says all, but someone could crimp the cable incorrect... so if he controll measure, this is a good hint then for him.

@ pusbutton: the LEDs in the shematic are REVERSED for example look into: http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_doutx4_32leds.pdf but in the board itself the Silkscreen for the Diode is painted correct - so if somebody just solder the PCB without looking into the Shematic - all is good, when someone look into the shematic he may be confused a bit. what type off Switch are using here > type it on the silkscreen - like you did on the Potentiometerboard. because: i see in the footprint its a le mec > then there are different types, with different Switch contacts - like you see here: 5GTH9 + 5ETH9 will work, while 5GTH9 with inbuilt LED will not work off course... i for me find the correct switch matching to your PCBs Footprint-Pinout - a bit hard... so label the type.... the rest off the PCB looks ok.

maybe by removing the pull-Hi resistor off the HC165 Circuit, and using a Inverter on its inputs for example: https://www.mouser.at/ProductDetail/Nexperia/74HCT1G14GW-Q100H?qs=SKY61BOKKY4Uv%2FaFLc8SsQ%3D%3D https://www.mouser.at/datasheet/2/916/74HC_HCT1G14_Q100-2937184.pdf (just a example maybe there are better parts for this porpuse, and i dont know how hard to solder this one is) that would reverse Lo and Hi, and you could use this bloddy 3 LEDs ( where i think thats not a good idea, the Encoder is expensive - and not really a standard part...) but for that quick idea i would prototype that first (order a inverter, order a Encoder, make wires without pcb) ... specially iff any pull hi or pull low resistors are needet elsewhere, i guess you need a 10K pull-low resistor (to ground) on pin 3 off your Encoder then: HC165 > Inverter > Pull-Low + Pin3 since i have not much time these times, and you have plenty off modules what module i should check next? i just had a look on your 4x2 Enc RGB SW Led ring Rgb render here... and i am not 100% sure that the inbuilt RGB LEDs that enlighten the Encodersshaft dont shine on the LED-Ring and make them hard too read (maybe need some lightshielding)... by the way hard too read, those Alps Knobs are a bit big for that small Ledring - can you still see the LEDs when looking from a angle that is not 100% from top?

That's absolutely glorious Peter! Nice work (as always!)

You can leave off the USB, it's only an additional +5V power option selectable by jumper..

Yes, absolutely. Please PM me for details, ideally including your location so I can give you a shipping quote if interested.

Hello all Selling my midibox sequencer including breakout box. The sequencer is fully functional, from a non-smoking household. Has never been used for live performances, only studio use. The breakout box is a bit obvious DIY but fully functional. You need a free slot in the modular system for the +-12V power supply. Selling price 1350,-€. best regards rbv2 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/midiphy-sequencer-v4-midibox-stepsequencer/2241157248-74-4257

Looks very nice and neat .I didnt know you are so busy with things . (Thank you for your support). I was working a lot with max/msp and m4l too. Its a lot of fun , but it takes a lot of time as well :) . Enjoy and keep up this amazing work.

So good and inspiring to see what you are creating! Good luck with your further progress, I‘m watching you :-)!

could be... you can try to filter out some psu-spikes by soldering a 100nf (maybe add also a 1uF or higher for too more stabilize the psu as addition) cap between + and - on the potis legs (most off the time these are the outer 2 legs off the trio)

look into ng documentation if there can be set a offset for the middle position so it stays on a position... because pots directly to the core is always a bit random... better use for example: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_ainser8.html then you have less random values also check the quality off PSU...off course a faulty pot can be the reason too

@ cherry: the switch itself you can get already from eg https://www.reichelt.de/tastaturzubehoer-c8099.html?ACTION=2&GROUPID=8099&SEARCH=*&START=16&OFFSET=16&CCOUNTRY=445&LANGUAGE=de&r=1&SID=967792150a00d890464504461a66ae529d97182e528c945af4544 caps: amazon, alibaba,.maybe.some thing like that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FYO8EDC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=flat%2Bkeycaps&qid=1675511770&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1 https://www.cherrymx.de/en/dev.html the low profile is maybe interesting....

PM sent!

adafruit rubber button 4x4

Very cool….well done.

Oh, wow, I totally missed that! Thank you!!! I wasted an entire day rummaging around and didn't manage to see that :) Just in case others run across this: You want 4SPI configuration, not IIC like I have in the pic. The number of screens you have must match the configuration you set in the bootloader, otherwise you get noise, and won't be able to write to all the lines/columns Also easy to miss, but for the 1306 RES connection, you need to wire it up like this (again, connections on your 1306 PCB): GND -> 10uf cap -> 1k resistor -> VCC. Once done, RES will be tied to where the cap and resistor meet (like this) It wasn't clear to me how to actually use the bootloader for the STMF4 board, but it's essentially: Plugin your board as you normally do Open MIOS Studio Click Browse and choose the mios32_bootloader app (download here) Click Start. If it won't complete, try unpluging/pluging the board and trying again Unplug/plugin the board In the MIDI IN and MIDI OUT sections whatever app you had prior to all of this might be listed, but it doesn't actually exist (and it shouldn't). That's why you now see the error "No response...". The new app, MIOS32, took its place and you need to refresh to see it. Click Application -> Rescan MIDI Devices Click Understood in the pop-up (this will make your old app disappear, and the MIOS32 app show up) Change MIDI IN and MIDI OUT to MIOS32 Enter these one by one into the input box: (send a command to MIOS32 application). Keep in mind lcd_num_x must match the number you have chained: set lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306 set lcd_num_x 1 set lcd_num_y 1 set lcd_width 128 set lcd_height 64 store Yah. Bootloader is done. Time to restore your app in MIOS Studio: Click Browse and choose whatever app you want, like midibox_ng Click Start. Like the bootloader, if it won't complete, try unpluging/pluging the board and trying again Unplug/plugin the board Now for some test display data. Lets set some values for your SSD1306 OLED's in MIOS Studio: Click on Tools -> MIOS32 File Browser Click Create File Create some name like LCD.NGC Click Update Click on the file you just created Click Edit Text and add the following test example: RESET_HW LCD "%C" LCD "@(1:1:1)A23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:2)B23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:3)C23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:4)D23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:5)E23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:6)F23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:7)G23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:8)H23456789012345678901234567890" Click Save You should now have 8 rows and 21 columns of text. If you need to flip it 180 degrees, you can redo the steps above and add set lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306_ROTATED before you store.

Did you adjust the bootloader for the SSD1306? See here http://ucapps.de/midibox_ng_manual_lcd.html

In an older post (referenced below) there was a lot of talk about the different SID clone options available and the pros and cons of each. Somewhere in that thread I put my own cards on the table and doubled-down on the ARMSID, because IMHO it provides very good sound emulation for my synths and my Commodore systems. Well, fast-forward to today (a couple years later), and I'm still happy to say that I use the ARMSID and ARM2SID regularly. In fact, I did a quick inventory check and realized that I've purchased about ~25 of them over the last 2 yrs, for various builds and repairs... In that same older forum post, I made a reference to the ARMSID Shield, which is an Arduino Uno add-on, that lets you test and configure your ARMSIDs, as well as manage firmware updates and even play some SID tunes to test everything out. This shield basically lets you do everything with the ARMSID that you would have needed a C64 computer for in the past. I thought it would be useful for anyone that is thinking about using the ARMSID / ARM2SID for their MIDIBox SID builds, to have a quick and handy reference to help them get setup. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1B_xzXlLjq3NbKnOrhIoJ5PrlVIhlsD_aASEhB0CWK90/edit?usp=sharing Questions & comments are welcomed... Cheers

pcb arrive, soldered 4 off them (12 channels) - the 4 others i make a nother time. (24ch in total) the display drivers from Andy work great again! the midibox code is working, the max for live patches too. (at least for this state i am happy to get automaticly the Channels names, and the Macronames!!! hell yeah!)

Here's the gerbers for the MB-6582 panel set pictured in this thread... Please credit @listen202 and @Manu29 for their efforts... _MB6582_Panel_L202-Manu.zip _MB6582_Rear_L202-Manu.zip

Notwithstanding a possible bridge day, last Friday of the month (27.05.22 / 7:30pm), online: We organize our regular Open Hardware Happy Hour (O3H) again! This month’s topic is Open Music, since Open Hardware is of course also a topic in the field of electronic music devices (and more and more on the rise). Among other things, we will present the sample sequencer by SucoFunk, The beatmakers’s sketchbook, an Open Hardware device that was also featured at this year’s Superbooth. We have asked for other speakers, so be prepared to be surprised, and bring your own (music) projects! Presenters will include Marc Berendes, Berlin-based Open Hardware developer at SucoFunk. Marc Berendes: The beatmakers’s sketchbook – An open sample sequencer for beats on-the-go (https://sucofunk.com/) (tba) Language of the presentations will probably be German this time. Link Call: https://bbb.cyber4edu.org/b/dan-gi4-bxg-p1v Blog: https://hardware.prototypefund.de/o3h-meetup-zu-open-music/

Oh si il est polyphonique ! Tu as 8 voies simultanées que tu peux router vers un canal/port midi dédié ! - Yes it it polyphonic, you have 8 simultaneous voices you can route on a dedicated midi channel/port !

Hi Therezin, I mounted the monitor upside-down because of the viewing angle. This specific monitor has been designed to be looked at from above. It's actually pretty good from around 10° to 90°, but from 95° to 180°, the visibility is very bad. Therefore i had to reverse it so when i seat behind my desk, i'm in the good range. Let me know if this explanation is not clear enough, it's pretty hard to describe in a foreign language. Thomas

Sure, that should work!

ok i am in austria... so maybe a other one?

Hi ssp, Two things: First, you need to change the id of the second controller: # Bank 1 EVENT_AINSER id=1 hw_id =1 bank=1 fwd_to_lcd=1 type=CC chn=1 cc=16 range=0:127 offset=0 lcd_pos=2:1:1 label="FDR1 #%3i %3d@(2:1:2)%B" #Bank 2 EVENT_AINSER id=1001 hw_id =1 bank=2 fwd_to_lcd=1 type=CC chn=1 cc=17 range=0:127 offset=0 lcd_pos=2:1:1 label="FDR2 #%3i %3d@(2:1:2)%B" Otherwise, Midibox might get confused, all EVENT_xxx must have a unique id. Unless they are of different types. for example you can have EVENT_LED id=1 and EVENT_AINSER id=1 Second: To light an led for each bank you need the button that sets the bank to forward info to the respective LED. for example: # select Bank1 directly EVENT_BUTTON id=1 fwd_id= LED:1 type=Meta meta=SetBank button_mode=OnOnly range=1:1 # select Bank2 directly EVENT_BUTTON id=2 fwd_id= LED:2 type=Meta meta=SetBank button_mode=OnOnly range=2:2 #LEDS EVENTS EVENT_LED id= 1 range= 1:1 radio_group= 1 EVENT_LED id= 2 range= 2:2 radio_group=1 The radio group makes sure only one LED turns on I also put the switches in the same radio_group on my config, but i'm not certain it's mandatory. now, i didn't use cycle_bank, inc_bank or dec_bank but you can take a look at those examples config to see if you find something interesting: https://github.com/midibox/mios32/tree/master/apps/controllers/midibox_ng_v1/cfg/tests And also, i found usefull to add #initialize all banks to 1 log "call bank 1 for all parameters" set ^bank 1 to the section 0 of my .ngr script. this ensure that all parameters are set to bank 1 at startup.

Hi everyone! Quick update here. I finally finished my controller and installed it in my small control-room. Here it is. I really like the way it turned out, i'm working with it since 2 weeks now, and it's a real bonus to the ergonomics. It still have room for improvements but that was expected and i will continue to work on it in the next future. I'd like to thank everyone on this forum who helped me build this and a BIG thanks to TK and all the midibox team. Without this place I would have never been able to even start this project. Cheers, Thomas

Jeannie & Volca in Love Link: https://www.tubeohm.com/

I get the same, but one trick is to highlight the entire contents and "print" the page to PDF. Then you should get the images in line. Best, Andy

After some CRAZY international shipping delays (>4 months), my SwinSID Ultimates have finally shown up! My first observation was "Jeeze, they've jammed a lot of tech into these bad boys", from the top-to-bottom and on both sides... I count two MCUs (an Atmel Mega 168PA and an ATtiny85), plus a Xilinx CPLD (sort of like a small FPGA). Then there's three LEDs (Red, Green and Yellow - one for each SID voice), and that massive crystal oscillator (the SG615). Visually, they come across as being 'a bit over engineered', especially when you compare them to the elegant and pro looking ARM2SIDs. Given all the parts, they wind up costing ~$10 USD more than the ARMSID (assuming you can even find them). We all know that beauty is only skin deep and looks can be deceiving, so best to dig right into the sound quality... I decided it would be easiest (and quickest) to test these from my Ultimate 64, because it has Zif sockets and an integrated SID player that supports stereo tracks (e.g., all the 2SID and 3SID tracks from the High Voltage SID Collection)... As always, interested to hear any thoughts & comments... Notes: The real SIDs are 8580 R5 The SwinSID Ultimates are both configured to emulate 8580 The ARM2SIDs are cable-connected, in "Stereo Socket Mode", with both configured to emulate 8580

Quick heads up on this for anyone that might wanna do this. I had some trouble compiling the above version for Linux Mint 19.3. Couple things you might need to do: ./configure --without-residfp This was giving me a weird "you need to be on a 32-bit platform at least" error (I'm on 64-bit, Ryzen) but we don't need this for outputting to an MBSID anyway The makefiles do not add -pthread. There's probably a more elegant way to fix this, but I just edited src/Makefile and added `-pthread` to the end of CFLAGS, CXXFLAGS and that seemed to avoid the errors You may need to symlink /usr/local/lib64/vice to /usr/local/lib if installing system wide (otherwise stuff like keyboard input doesn't work) You need the ROMs of course! Doing all this allowed me to bust out the HVSC intros included in the collection. Seems to work like a champ!

Hi guys, I don't know the best for your project but I can explain what I did for the OLRE16. First is the MASK, it's black PMMA. Both sides are milled. I let some space between the leds on the pcb to keep some matters between the leds housing. Led size is 1.5x2mm On the other side(front side) there's some stripes which will fit inside the translucent PMMA, they will block the light between the leds, between the rings and between the rings and the oleds. . Note: the olre16 top pcb(ring) has no component on the top except the leds and the oleds. In blue are the back leds housing. In Red there are the holes. In Yellow, some stripes to block the light on the front, those stripes will fit inside the back of the translucent PMMA. The second part is the 'WINDOW', in translucent white PMMA, it's a LED special one, the same I used for the beat led window of the Seqv4+. The back part will fit inside the MASK, in other word the base of the WINDOW will receive the MASK's stripes, of course the WINDOW's pipes are in front of the MASK's holes. Then the Aluminum front panel comes to finish blocking the light and the pipes of the WINDOW will fit inside the panel, flush the surface. When they are coupled When coupled , assembled the thickness without the pipes height(front panel thickness) doesn't exceed 2.5mm Voilà! I don't know if it will help you and It's surely an "over-engineered" thing but this is the only solution I found, and it works. Best regards Bruno

Hey people, thanks to @TK.! It's working great. Anyway I had still some flickering on the LEDs. As I stated above I left away the caps ... and this was the reason. I know have added a 10uF on the input and on the output-connector of the LED-rings and the flickering is completely eliminated! Great!! So, one core can handle a total of 10 LED (10*36=360) rings....

Hi all, I'm finally finished my MB SEQ V4L V1 from 2011. Sorry for the poor quality. Next step for me: Learn to play Next step for my children: Raspberry PI Touchcreen extension Best regards Jack

Hey people, in this thread I'll post time after time updates about my latest keyboard build. Also I'll use this thread to publish eagle-PCB-layout-files and schematics. But please be patient. Uploading and documenting all that stuff is highly time consuming and it's right before christmas. So far everything works great, but the work under the hood was really time consuming because I used a lot of modules... some available from Tim, some I did on my own. I think modules are great if you need high flexibility... and all the modules are working perfectly. But if it comes down to save space and wiring, modules are a mess. Anyway... here we go: So I was tired using a laptop, a soundcard, tons of cables and all that stuff on stage. So I thought: What if I put the computer into the keyboard? It was quite successful. I used an Mini-ITX mainboard from Gigabyte, an i5-3570k (I'd go with a better i7 if I hadn't had that i5 before) with a low profile cooler. The mainboard is equipped with 16GB of RAM. Also I integrated two Samsung SSDs with 500GB each. The whole thing is powered through a Seasonic SS250U power supply. As soundcard I use a PCIe card from RME HDSPe AiO. Because this only has two audio in/outs, I also bought two expansion-board that gives me another four in and outs. The first two analog-outs are going through a self-made DI-box with high quality LEHLE-transformer... absolutely great stuff. This DI-box features also a 20dB PAD and a GND-lift. Let's hand over to the MIDIbox-side: I use two cores. One of them only takes care of the keyboard scanning. It was very important to me to not make a compromise on this. This core is connected via MIDI-out to the MIDI-In of the other core. Both cores are STM32F4 based. I used my own PCBs for that. @TK. Is it a problem if I publish those schematics and layouts for the core? I know that the official core is not published yet to cover the costs for PCB production and development. The PCB I developed only contains the connectors I need: it has J8/9, J19, J10A, J11 and J30 (as far as I remember... don't have it right in front of me at the moment). I tried to get a smaller footprint of the whole PCB. It also features a MicroSD-card slot instead of the SD-card-slot in the official PCB. My keyboard has nine analog faders build in... they are not motorized. I don't need that for now as they are much more expensive and also take more space. Also they are more difficult to wire up and connect. At first I did some tests with the AINSER8. But after a while I gave AINSER64 a try with the result, that it has less jitter than the AINSER8. The faders are a lot more quiet than with AINSER8. As I needed more than 16 analog inputs this was needed anyway. I power the AINSER64 through the core and the core receives it's power directly from the seasonic-power supply and NOT via USB. I needed some LEDs to visualize the status of my faders. A long long time ago I wanted to start another LED-fader-project but never finished it. So I had a lot of those LED-bars laying around... I took them and putted them into the board... works and feels great! On the next revision I'd try to use one big PCB for all 9 LED-bars to safe wiring and time for mounting. Now I used two 10pin IDC connectors (with only 8 pins of each are connected to the LED-bars = 16 LEDs). I did some mistakes when assembling the LED-PCBs... now sometimes some LEDs don't work... anyway... I can live with that for now. @TK. How about the WS2812 or APA102-LEDs? Do you think it's worth using them as LED-rings? I'm not sure what the status is and if they are supported in that way by MIDIbox. Would be a great alternative but they take a lot more space than 0603 SMD LEDs of course. The LED-bars are connected to small modules I did based on @novski designs. Those small modules are equipped with one or two DIN / DOUT modules. They work great and the advantage is, that I can stack them directly on the pinheader of the PCB... no cables needed! A bit hotglue and you are ready to go. I also have 8 encoders on each side of the keyboard. The right side is not connected yet... not sure if I do need so many encoders ;-) Of course they are also equipped with LED-rings. While the LED-bars where assembled by factory (I think I used SEEED) the encoder-rings came blank... so it took me a looooooong time adding 128 0805 SMD LEDs to all PCBs... at this time I had not have my reflow-oven... with this one that might be an easy task :-) The encoders (and the switches of the encoders) are connected to a 4xDIN board from novski. I'm not sure if this board really works well. Sometimes if I set debug on, MIOS lists tons of EVENT_BUTTONS. I'll need to investigate that. Maybe it has something to do with RC1 / RC2 lines. Underneath the faders I have a set of 2x8 buttons. I'm not really happy with them. I did the caps by myself and this was a really shitty work... next time I will use tact-switches that already come with caps f.e. TC011 like I did in the 1x8 button-row right in front of the player / underneath the display. For the buttons I designed a DIO-breakout-board. This breakout-board splits the matrix configuration of the 2x8 pinheader of the DIO-module to a more usable 2x5pin header-configuration with the row on pin 1 and the switch-lines on 3-10. With this way it's very easy to connect tons of buttons to a MIDIbox. . Same for the LEDs of the buttons. I used a DOUT-module with ULN2803 as LED driver (btw. I drive all LEDs with ULN2803 and do NOT use a resistor before or after the LEDs. As those LED-lines are scanned, a limiting resistor doesn't seem to be necessary). That's mainly it... the keyboard has two MIDI I/Os on the back as well as four pedal connectors for two switches and two expression pedals. The touchscreen in the middle is a 10" capacitive screen... that works awesome!! That's the story for now... like I said I'll try to keep this thread alive and add the PCB layouts and schematics later on. Thanks for reading!! Best, Chris

Hi everyone ! I experienced the same problem, and The Ancient One's solution works perfectly for me. I changed the 220R resistors to 68R for R21 and R22. Now the 9090 detects the signal without any issue. Thank you a lot Michael ! Théo

Small nitpick, Arkay, and I feel bad for saying it, as I'm not one of those spelling nazis on forums, but you're missing a comma, there shouldn't be a "." before "but" and it's "nazis" not "nazi's". Please stop doing that.