Leaderboard

Hey everyone, just wanted to share my latest build since I'm sure there are some 3D printing enthusiasts here like myself. I bought the parts for an MB6582 about 5 years ago, if you remember Meeblip was selling those 8580 SID chips and I picked up 8 of them, and then put everything into a box in a closet . 3D printing has come a very long way since the original MB6582 was created by Wilba. I read that the JB Weld solution may or may not be holding up great after all this time. Also, I wanted to use a Newhaven OLED which is much thinner than the original LCD. I thought there must be a solution to lower the gap distance so why not create some type of spacer for between the front panel and the PCB? I designed all parts in Fusion360. The PCB screws directly into the spacer using M2.5 nuts/screws and plastic screws. The top of it has a flange that rests in the panel groove for the PT-10. Total spacer height is 5.7mm which is the height of the base of the encoders. The front panel is another 1.25mm. Everything is printed out of ASA, which is very strong and heat resistant. I designed the panel graphics in Inkscape and printed on translucent vinyl. I used Davies knobs with small printed skirts to cover up the threads of the encoders since they were exposed. I do not have a vinyl autocutter but I do have an exacto and lots of patience Overall tried going with a 80s beige computer look. A build plate for my printer created the carbon fiber effect on the panel. I'm happy to share the 3D files if anyone could use them.

I read a lot of guides. Successfully compiled ASM code. The OLED display works well with an 8bit driver. If anyone needs the firmware, here is: setup_sammich_sid_8bit.hex

Hey man. It's actually an FR4-Standard PCB. Non aluminium. But seems pretty robust anyway.

Hello how much will cost the mb6582? and also If you plan to build a sammichFM let me know

Hi! Answered in PM. Yes, sammichFM can be ordered by dropshipping. Only a bare PCB can be ordered currently. Also coming soon - a new MB6582-compatible synth Inexpensive, fully compatible, affordable, technology optimized Will make a new thread soon

From what I gather from the manual and changelog, this LED indicates whether you have selected a „positive values only“ waveform for the LFO (instead of applying the default workaround by showing waveform LED + Random LED). It does not indicate that the value of the LFO is currently positive.

Prompted by a message from freddy, I've attached the project files below. They contain the source and the binaries for the bootloader and the main code. 1.05 is the latest version - there was a fix in the bootloader and the main code. I included some memory in the final hardware design but never got around to doing anything useful with it. I had plans to save one or more demo tunes as MIDI files and perhaps save some settings as profiles for different scenarios - my interests had moved on before that happened. You can find more project info at https://web.archive.org/web/20210206041027/http://www.grapevyne.com/pic.projects/ - the documentation links are all active so you can download the magazine articles and also my original source for the articles (a few errors crept into the magazine article during editing). mistralXG project files.zip mistralBoot.zip

To use Studio on newer Ubuntu Desktops you need to install the old libwebkit2gtk-4.0.so.37. To do so create a sources.list file for apt containing the following line: deb http://gb.archive.ubuntu.com/ubuntu jammy main And install the lib. sudo apt update sudo apt install libwebkit2gtk-4.0-dev After this delete the sources.list file. More infos on https://www.weigu.lu/music/midibox_hp_2x2/index.html

Reflowed the ttasnsistors on the top side and now I am back to 12 LEDs on. I'm assuming the LEDs shouldn't be on, but otherwise that feels like an improvement as it means I get mattias switch events for 12 of 16. I'm also getting events for depresses on the right 4 encoders although they seem a bit random in the actual event details. I've also replaced IC2, IC3 and T3 based on advice from ChatGPT but that made no difference.

Thanks, perhaps I'll shoot over to the UK ;-) I've rebuilt the core board now and I'm back where roughly where I started. At least I feel confident I have eliminated the core as a possible cause; the problem must be with my LeMec board. Done some more reflowing on that board and now: - just 4 LEDs light up on power up now - all encoders generate counts when rotated but not depresses - botton left 4 buttons generate no events; bottom right four are working - mattias switches generate events for the four that have illuminated LEDs but not the rest

This looks amazing! With some of the older chips like vintage vca, filter or delay chips you really have to be careful regarding heat and also (or even more so) static discharge. Nowadays with most ics these issues have long been solved by modern manufacturing processes and built in safety measures. I had to lear the hard way that this is not the case with chips from the 80s... So the heatsink is probably a good idea, as would be any way to allow for some airflow. On the other hand, i have removed the fans from some of my gear with no issues at all, as commercial units have to consider every worst case scenario (crowded rack in hot environment). So if you know how you use your gear you can get away with things that could not be allowed for every scenario.

With velocity bars there is more info displayed and the spacing is more uniform. The hyphen/minus as a spacer for natural notes helps to connect them; with spaces it is more confusing. Do you really use those low octaves so often @anonyme-x22? If it bothers you, a workaround is to transpose either on the SEQ or your synth.

Hi Niles, I still have original mb6582 encoders, bulk ordered and sent by Wilba. Working perfectly! Would you like some? Best

i made a passive design, since the fan which came from mouser, was dead from the beginning... since it is a 6582, it was not going very hot anyway... but i drilled Holes into the pcb under the SID-Sockets, and cut aways some plastic from the socket too. i too drilled some holes in the plastic body under the Main-PCB too, the backside off the SID should be enough to get rid off the hot air...

Thank's for the tip! What I'm looking for is either the fpd file which fits the Heidenreich case or maybe a ready made panel. The fpd file I found in the Wiki seems to be not specifically made for the Heidenreich case. I prever a fpd file which is proven to fit into the Heidenreich case before trying to adapt Wilbas files to the case.

Just a small necro-bump :-) …by now we are roughly 150 people over there with some occasional chatting going on. Feel free to drop by!

Hi all , Was wondering about opening a KiCAD Section in the wiki? For tutorials , midibox libs etc... where should i put it? regards, JK Edit : A Frontpanel designer section could be useful too ?That's a soft that i think most of us use? Maybe create a "Softwares" Section?

Hello, I have a rebound problem with the sparkfun pads, do you have an idea how to fix this? Hardware? Software ? Thanks The rest works fine

the ssd1306 oleds i received where 5V tolerant... the ws2812b is also in a range from 3.3-5.3V, dout modules also needs 5V... so your reichelt psu should do the job, and you could power them directly from the psu... but i guess you power them with the ribbon cables from your core... i dont know what Core you will use? if you use the WCORE from midiphy, then you may ran into some problems when using a external 5V PSU, see this topic: https://forum.midiphy.com/d/151-wcore-non-usb-powerd-but-still-use-as-usb-device/5 also if you are unlucky you will get walking lines on your SSD1306 screens... then it best it would to buffer each D0 D1 Clock... Pins, which are done for example in this module: http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=displaydriver-smd a plus is then you can then use more then 8 screens!

@ Faderboard 1 & 2 Mounting holes labeling not necessery again. rest is ok. you may could label + and - beside the 2x5 shroudet Pinheaders, so there is no chance someone reverse it in a way... in generell... normally the Nose- says all, but someone could crimp the cable incorrect... so if he controll measure, this is a good hint then for him.

@ pusbutton: the LEDs in the shematic are REVERSED for example look into: http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_doutx4_32leds.pdf but in the board itself the Silkscreen for the Diode is painted correct - so if somebody just solder the PCB without looking into the Shematic - all is good, when someone look into the shematic he may be confused a bit. what type off Switch are using here > type it on the silkscreen - like you did on the Potentiometerboard. because: i see in the footprint its a le mec > then there are different types, with different Switch contacts - like you see here: 5GTH9 + 5ETH9 will work, while 5GTH9 with inbuilt LED will not work off course... i for me find the correct switch matching to your PCBs Footprint-Pinout - a bit hard... so label the type.... the rest off the PCB looks ok.

You can leave off the USB, it's only an additional +5V power option selectable by jumper..

at RGB-Leds > i dont know, how many you will use? which coremodule you will use? is it eurorackbased > and eurorack powerd? Which RGB-LED you will use - and what is the Voltage it needs? and so on.... i looked into your files.... some notices: @BP: dont connect the mountingholes to ground, or any other potential, best would be to make a keep out-area (sperrfläche) arround it, like i did for example here: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?w=600&tok=f96292&media=phatline:daw-btn-3d-b.jpg since you can plastic and/or metall standoffs to mount that pcb to the panel, you would need at least 6mm or more keepout-area.... background: you want to avoid groundloops over the frontpanel, and the risk of a electrical shock is less.... The LEDs in the diagram are connected false, the tip off the arrow should always be connected to the ground. (you should turn them 180°) which buttons do you want to use? please check the pinout off them... for me it happend that i did not connect the correct pins, so double check this.... why you made those cuts on the 4 corners? its better to make them rectangular - background: if you panelize the pcb, you have to draw a V-Grove line, the machine can only Grove in 90°, the idea, is to put 2 off this boards on one 100x100 PCB so you can save money on FAB.... way more oversight you have if you use a Groundsymbol... instead off paint Lines to a ground inside your shematic... look into "control" to see what i mean...also it makes it easyier to work with groundplanes, since this needs a NET... @Control: please open this file:Control.zip the same like above, and, you dont need that vias next to PIN 2 off the switches > Pin 2 is a via itself.... - same for Pin 1 off P2, the Problem it did not fill without your Vias: because you dont used a Ground-Net.... Pin1 - which is labeld as VDD (+) was connect to all your buttons and the pot (which is a Encoder)... normaly we connect them to ground..... VSS is ground.... so i exchanged the whole thing.... i dont know iff this is then still correct in your big picture- wiring diagram.... how ever thats the way i would make it - at least iff the Pin-Labels off the IDC Connectors are right... you should put the 4 mounting holes in the shematic, so you dont loose them when updating the PCB Also dont label your Encoder with Pot or RV >>> this is not a Potentiometer... that confused me until i realized this is a Encoder.... also the google-Drive files are a bit corrupt - the footprints where not assigned to the Shematic symbols...... when you save the project and upload it somewhere - zip it inside Kicad with "Projektdaten archivieren" - dont know the french word for it. -please overwork also your BP like/or simular like i did.... @Fader 1/2.... please open this file: Fad_2.zip shematic: also better use GND and VDD Nets.... more oversight! if you dont use a Pin off your IDC-Header (P5), then "x" them out with the blue "x" on the right side off your editor.... For what are those outer Mounting holes? they are too near to the Faders...make the pcb bigger so there is space for a Spacer/standoff, or use only the 4 inner mounting holes... which i think is enough.... again better 90° corners.... fill out your Shematics "Circuit-Field" right down - dont know the englisch or french word for "Plankopf" ... by the way you can design your own "Plankopf", so you dont see there thing like "KiCAD E.D.,A kicad 6.0.10......" keep out for mounting holes again... (see PB) dont make outher planes on VDD(+) ... mostly there can happen problems when mounting the thing to a panels, better use Ground-Planes... When looking on your FAders Footprint, and on the DAtasheet for the RA6020F then i am not sure iff the pinout is correct (the datasheet is bullshit...) but i guess you imported the Symbol and Footprint from mouser or something....then i guess its oky.... also use the design-rule check function (in a shematic and PCB-Editor) i did not looked in the other kicad-projects... but i guess its the same - a bit overwork needet..

@ cherry: the switch itself you can get already from eg https://www.reichelt.de/tastaturzubehoer-c8099.html?ACTION=2&GROUPID=8099&SEARCH=*&START=16&OFFSET=16&CCOUNTRY=445&LANGUAGE=de&r=1&SID=967792150a00d890464504461a66ae529d97182e528c945af4544 caps: amazon, alibaba,.maybe.some thing like that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FYO8EDC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=flat%2Bkeycaps&qid=1675511770&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1 https://www.cherrymx.de/en/dev.html the low profile is maybe interesting....

PM sent!

this will take a while - look into the forum in 5 weeks or so. i need the PCB to make a new version off Triggermatrix (http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=triggermatrix4) the Frontpanel is not a generic MatrixController thing - it has 17 Displays, 8 Faders, some rotarys and buttons, the Software for this is not a normal Midicontroller-code (aka Midibox NG) - its my own creation a sequencer based on MIOS. - but if i not make a shematic mistake, the pcb should be usable like the orginal BLM16*16+X in other Midibox Projects.

Very cool….well done.

Oh, wow, I totally missed that! Thank you!!! I wasted an entire day rummaging around and didn't manage to see that :) Just in case others run across this: You want 4SPI configuration, not IIC like I have in the pic. The number of screens you have must match the configuration you set in the bootloader, otherwise you get noise, and won't be able to write to all the lines/columns Also easy to miss, but for the 1306 RES connection, you need to wire it up like this (again, connections on your 1306 PCB): GND -> 10uf cap -> 1k resistor -> VCC. Once done, RES will be tied to where the cap and resistor meet (like this) It wasn't clear to me how to actually use the bootloader for the STMF4 board, but it's essentially: Plugin your board as you normally do Open MIOS Studio Click Browse and choose the mios32_bootloader app (download here) Click Start. If it won't complete, try unpluging/pluging the board and trying again Unplug/plugin the board In the MIDI IN and MIDI OUT sections whatever app you had prior to all of this might be listed, but it doesn't actually exist (and it shouldn't). That's why you now see the error "No response...". The new app, MIOS32, took its place and you need to refresh to see it. Click Application -> Rescan MIDI Devices Click Understood in the pop-up (this will make your old app disappear, and the MIOS32 app show up) Change MIDI IN and MIDI OUT to MIOS32 Enter these one by one into the input box: (send a command to MIOS32 application). Keep in mind lcd_num_x must match the number you have chained: set lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306 set lcd_num_x 1 set lcd_num_y 1 set lcd_width 128 set lcd_height 64 store Yah. Bootloader is done. Time to restore your app in MIOS Studio: Click Browse and choose whatever app you want, like midibox_ng Click Start. Like the bootloader, if it won't complete, try unpluging/pluging the board and trying again Unplug/plugin the board Now for some test display data. Lets set some values for your SSD1306 OLED's in MIOS Studio: Click on Tools -> MIOS32 File Browser Click Create File Create some name like LCD.NGC Click Update Click on the file you just created Click Edit Text and add the following test example: RESET_HW LCD "%C" LCD "@(1:1:1)A23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:2)B23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:3)C23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:4)D23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:5)E23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:6)F23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:7)G23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:8)H23456789012345678901234567890" Click Save You should now have 8 rows and 21 columns of text. If you need to flip it 180 degrees, you can redo the steps above and add set lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306_ROTATED before you store.

Did you adjust the bootloader for the SSD1306? See here http://ucapps.de/midibox_ng_manual_lcd.html

Notwithstanding a possible bridge day, last Friday of the month (27.05.22 / 7:30pm), online: We organize our regular Open Hardware Happy Hour (O3H) again! This month’s topic is Open Music, since Open Hardware is of course also a topic in the field of electronic music devices (and more and more on the rise). Among other things, we will present the sample sequencer by SucoFunk, The beatmakers’s sketchbook, an Open Hardware device that was also featured at this year’s Superbooth. We have asked for other speakers, so be prepared to be surprised, and bring your own (music) projects! Presenters will include Marc Berendes, Berlin-based Open Hardware developer at SucoFunk. Marc Berendes: The beatmakers’s sketchbook – An open sample sequencer for beats on-the-go (https://sucofunk.com/) (tba) Language of the presentations will probably be German this time. Link Call: https://bbb.cyber4edu.org/b/dan-gi4-bxg-p1v Blog: https://hardware.prototypefund.de/o3h-meetup-zu-open-music/

i guess not the pyboard uses a 12Mhz external crystal? and Mios32 needs? look at the Pinout: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=antichambre:pinout_compare_chart2.png a quick look at for example the SD-Card Pins - of the pyboard and on Dipcore or Discovery stm32F407VG - says that the use other GPIO to do things... So yes you may flash that pyboard, but the Mhz might not be right (aka need to replace the oscillator) So yes you might run MIOS afterwards... but you cant use for example the onboard SD-Card - because it is wired to other pins... you have to DO the work that antichambre did (change the GPIO ports in MIOS, make a new toolchain, and that is a Job for someone who knows what he does - i would be very happy if i could do that - or someone introduce that skill to me- but i dont have any glue about that)

Salut bruno, on fait comment pour t'en acheter un ? ;o)

Hi Therezin, I mounted the monitor upside-down because of the viewing angle. This specific monitor has been designed to be looked at from above. It's actually pretty good from around 10° to 90°, but from 95° to 180°, the visibility is very bad. Therefore i had to reverse it so when i seat behind my desk, i'm in the good range. Let me know if this explanation is not clear enough, it's pretty hard to describe in a foreign language. Thomas

Sure, that should work!

Hi ssp, Two things: First, you need to change the id of the second controller: # Bank 1 EVENT_AINSER id=1 hw_id =1 bank=1 fwd_to_lcd=1 type=CC chn=1 cc=16 range=0:127 offset=0 lcd_pos=2:1:1 label="FDR1 #%3i %3d@(2:1:2)%B" #Bank 2 EVENT_AINSER id=1001 hw_id =1 bank=2 fwd_to_lcd=1 type=CC chn=1 cc=17 range=0:127 offset=0 lcd_pos=2:1:1 label="FDR2 #%3i %3d@(2:1:2)%B" Otherwise, Midibox might get confused, all EVENT_xxx must have a unique id. Unless they are of different types. for example you can have EVENT_LED id=1 and EVENT_AINSER id=1 Second: To light an led for each bank you need the button that sets the bank to forward info to the respective LED. for example: # select Bank1 directly EVENT_BUTTON id=1 fwd_id= LED:1 type=Meta meta=SetBank button_mode=OnOnly range=1:1 # select Bank2 directly EVENT_BUTTON id=2 fwd_id= LED:2 type=Meta meta=SetBank button_mode=OnOnly range=2:2 #LEDS EVENTS EVENT_LED id= 1 range= 1:1 radio_group= 1 EVENT_LED id= 2 range= 2:2 radio_group=1 The radio group makes sure only one LED turns on I also put the switches in the same radio_group on my config, but i'm not certain it's mandatory. now, i didn't use cycle_bank, inc_bank or dec_bank but you can take a look at those examples config to see if you find something interesting: https://github.com/midibox/mios32/tree/master/apps/controllers/midibox_ng_v1/cfg/tests And also, i found usefull to add #initialize all banks to 1 log "call bank 1 for all parameters" set ^bank 1 to the section 0 of my .ngr script. this ensure that all parameters are set to bank 1 at startup.

It's not quite clear to me what you want to do? You want to have one J89 SRIO chain and switch between several Cores? If that's right, it is trivial to make a Johnson counter/decade counter out of a 4017 chip. You could think to use the output enable pin(s) of the buffer (541 or 125) that is used to interface the buss to the core. Each Core gets one buffer with the datalines connected to the inputs (+DIN to an output), the outputs are common to the J89 chain (+ the serial in). Advance the counter to "turn on" one chip.

Aah, quite the variety of modules. The first one is a GM5 USB to MIDI Interface. This board only has 1 pair of MIDI in/out, the jumper can be used to connect a further 4 MIDO io pairs. Then we have a pair of LPCxpresso boards for the 1st gen LPC1769 STM32 microcontroller. This is a variant of MBcore 32. You dock these to a baseboard and voilà. Then we have a Microchip dev board that’s not normally a part of the MIDIbox ecosystem. Followed by a Pic18F452 MBcore8 for older projects like MBsid, MBfm and the like. Last is an AoutNG - an 8-Channel 12-bit DAC board for analog outputs. This is mainly used for the generation of up to 8 CVs at 1V/oct. These can be unipolar or bipolar. Other scales are available in the MIDIbox software. These can drive analog VCOs, VCFs and such.

I get the same, but one trick is to highlight the entire contents and "print" the page to PDF. Then you should get the images in line. Best, Andy

@Hawkeye Thank you for the thoughtful replies. It is easy to think of future wishes and add ons but at the same time forget about how it would effect everything else. I love the Seq4+, very little I would change! And the fact that I can get into the code and try things myself is pretty amazing. That alone is a "feature" that very few seq's can boast. @flyweightIf I was looking for more humanized recordings I'd use the longer tracks with higher divisions OR the humanizer feature! Also, you can specify your own shuffle parameters, you may find something that gives you YOUR feel.. if you could analyze how your beats groove, you may just be able to create that groove as a template and there ya go. May be worth digging into. At the same time, your experience and learning from building the Seq is not lost if you sell it. You lost time, yes. I'm sure if you put it on the market it will sell pretty quickly. ~Steve

Quick heads up on this for anyone that might wanna do this. I had some trouble compiling the above version for Linux Mint 19.3. Couple things you might need to do: ./configure --without-residfp This was giving me a weird "you need to be on a 32-bit platform at least" error (I'm on 64-bit, Ryzen) but we don't need this for outputting to an MBSID anyway The makefiles do not add -pthread. There's probably a more elegant way to fix this, but I just edited src/Makefile and added `-pthread` to the end of CFLAGS, CXXFLAGS and that seemed to avoid the errors You may need to symlink /usr/local/lib64/vice to /usr/local/lib if installing system wide (otherwise stuff like keyboard input doesn't work) You need the ROMs of course! Doing all this allowed me to bust out the HVSC intros included in the collection. Seems to work like a champ!

Hi guys, I don't know the best for your project but I can explain what I did for the OLRE16. First is the MASK, it's black PMMA. Both sides are milled. I let some space between the leds on the pcb to keep some matters between the leds housing. Led size is 1.5x2mm On the other side(front side) there's some stripes which will fit inside the translucent PMMA, they will block the light between the leds, between the rings and between the rings and the oleds. . Note: the olre16 top pcb(ring) has no component on the top except the leds and the oleds. In blue are the back leds housing. In Red there are the holes. In Yellow, some stripes to block the light on the front, those stripes will fit inside the back of the translucent PMMA. The second part is the 'WINDOW', in translucent white PMMA, it's a LED special one, the same I used for the beat led window of the Seqv4+. The back part will fit inside the MASK, in other word the base of the WINDOW will receive the MASK's stripes, of course the WINDOW's pipes are in front of the MASK's holes. Then the Aluminum front panel comes to finish blocking the light and the pipes of the WINDOW will fit inside the panel, flush the surface. When they are coupled When coupled , assembled the thickness without the pipes height(front panel thickness) doesn't exceed 2.5mm Voilà! I don't know if it will help you and It's surely an "over-engineered" thing but this is the only solution I found, and it works. Best regards Bruno

Hey people, thanks to @TK.! It's working great. Anyway I had still some flickering on the LEDs. As I stated above I left away the caps ... and this was the reason. I know have added a 10uF on the input and on the output-connector of the LED-rings and the flickering is completely eliminated! Great!! So, one core can handle a total of 10 LED (10*36=360) rings....

Good. Maybe someone need good midi samples for beatmaking www.lucidsamples.com/edm-samples-packs/278-edm-magical-midis-vol-3.html and https://www.loopmasters.com/search?q=midi

Hi all, I'm finally finished my MB SEQ V4L V1 from 2011. Sorry for the poor quality. Next step for me: Learn to play Next step for my children: Raspberry PI Touchcreen extension Best regards Jack

for those who don't find a sd card socket for the core stm32F4. you could use micro SD card and the ADAPTATOR will be the socket like:http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_sdcard.html first solder unused component legs to the adaptator: solder to the core but leave some space to the board for avoid short (be carefull pinning): you could fix it (glue) if you want (not done for me legs are sufficiant) et voila!