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Hey everyone, just wanted to share my latest build since I'm sure there are some 3D printing enthusiasts here like myself. I bought the parts for an MB6582 about 5 years ago, if you remember Meeblip was selling those 8580 SID chips and I picked up 8 of them, and then put everything into a box in a closet . 3D printing has come a very long way since the original MB6582 was created by Wilba. I read that the JB Weld solution may or may not be holding up great after all this time. Also, I wanted to use a Newhaven OLED which is much thinner than the original LCD. I thought there must be a solution to lower the gap distance so why not create some type of spacer for between the front panel and the PCB? I designed all parts in Fusion360. The PCB screws directly into the spacer using M2.5 nuts/screws and plastic screws. The top of it has a flange that rests in the panel groove for the PT-10. Total spacer height is 5.7mm which is the height of the base of the encoders. The front panel is another 1.25mm. Everything is printed out of ASA, which is very strong and heat resistant. I designed the panel graphics in Inkscape and printed on translucent vinyl. I used Davies knobs with small printed skirts to cover up the threads of the encoders since they were exposed. I do not have a vinyl autocutter but I do have an exacto and lots of patience Overall tried going with a 80s beige computer look. A build plate for my printer created the carbon fiber effect on the panel. I'm happy to share the 3D files if anyone could use them.

I read a lot of guides. Successfully compiled ASM code. The OLED display works well with an 8bit driver. If anyone needs the firmware, here is: setup_sammich_sid_8bit.hex

Hey man. It's actually an FR4-Standard PCB. Non aluminium. But seems pretty robust anyway.

Thanks for keeping this projects alive I will try to buy one of them next month if its possible again thanks so much for your work Best regards

Hi! Answered in PM. Yes, sammichFM can be ordered by dropshipping. Only a bare PCB can be ordered currently. Also coming soon - a new MB6582-compatible synth Inexpensive, fully compatible, affordable, technology optimized Will make a new thread soon

From what I gather from the manual and changelog, this LED indicates whether you have selected a „positive values only“ waveform for the LFO (instead of applying the default workaround by showing waveform LED + Random LED). It does not indicate that the value of the LFO is currently positive.

Hi all I am having a very hard time making any progress with a problem with my left LeMec board. When I first assembled the JA and LeMec boards and tested them, everything was working on JA board and the two LeMec boards except: - encoder 3 on left Lemec board was not registering depress events - encoder 8 on left LeMec board was generating garbage counter values when rotating. Since then I have gone backwards and been stuck for over several weeks with no progress. I first tried to solve the issues above with reflowing the ICs on left LeMec board but that didn't help. I then reflowed the ICs on the core, and after that, I am in this worse state with left LeMec board - encoder 8 does not register turns - none of the encoders are registering push events - 4 leftmost buttons on are not registering push events - 12 of the 16 LEDs light up immediately upon powering up as seen in attached pic I haven't bothered testing the Matias switch events as this is enough wrong already I have reflowed the ICs, diodes and transistors on that board multiple times, and on the core board too, and nothing is changing. The only advice I get from Midiphy is to reflow/check for dry joints/shorts which I have done over and over. It would help to have proper circuit diagrams to try to chase down likely culprits instead of messing with everything all the time. If I just connect the JA board to core and run the seq_l test, that is still testing fine for everything. The right LeMec board is out of the picture for now; I think it was all working well at least. Any help will be most welcome as I am close to assuming I just have to abandon this and write it off as a very expensive exercise in frustration and futility. Thanks Graham

To use Studio on newer Ubuntu Desktops you need to install the old libwebkit2gtk-4.0.so.37. To do so create a sources.list file for apt containing the following line: deb http://gb.archive.ubuntu.com/ubuntu jammy main And install the lib. sudo apt update sudo apt install libwebkit2gtk-4.0-dev After this delete the sources.list file. More infos on https://www.weigu.lu/music/midibox_hp_2x2/index.html

II replaces the remaining ICs and its working! Woohoo!

Thanks, perhaps I'll shoot over to the UK ;-) I've rebuilt the core board now and I'm back where roughly where I started. At least I feel confident I have eliminated the core as a possible cause; the problem must be with my LeMec board. Done some more reflowing on that board and now: - just 4 LEDs light up on power up now - all encoders generate counts when rotated but not depresses - botton left 4 buttons generate no events; bottom right four are working - mattias switches generate events for the four that have illuminated LEDs but not the rest

This looks amazing! With some of the older chips like vintage vca, filter or delay chips you really have to be careful regarding heat and also (or even more so) static discharge. Nowadays with most ics these issues have long been solved by modern manufacturing processes and built in safety measures. I had to lear the hard way that this is not the case with chips from the 80s... So the heatsink is probably a good idea, as would be any way to allow for some airflow. On the other hand, i have removed the fans from some of my gear with no issues at all, as commercial units have to consider every worst case scenario (crowded rack in hot environment). So if you know how you use your gear you can get away with things that could not be allowed for every scenario.

With velocity bars there is more info displayed and the spacing is more uniform. The hyphen/minus as a spacer for natural notes helps to connect them; with spaces it is more confusing. Do you really use those low octaves so often @anonyme-x22? If it bothers you, a workaround is to transpose either on the SEQ or your synth.

Hello, When i mute part, i can do it by bottom row (normal known behavior), but also the top row. So it's confusing. Being able to mute only on bottom row will make the workflow more consistant. Or it could also being interesting to be able to mute differently between upper and bottom row. Like top row track 1-16 mute. Bottom row group 1-4 mute. Thanks in advance, Have a good day, Rgds,

New top as requested PM me please, or I can send the details as well.

i made a passive design, since the fan which came from mouser, was dead from the beginning... since it is a 6582, it was not going very hot anyway... but i drilled Holes into the pcb under the SID-Sockets, and cut aways some plastic from the socket too. i too drilled some holes in the plastic body under the Main-PCB too, the backside off the SID should be enough to get rid off the hot air...

a nother passive SID alive...

Thank's for the tip! What I'm looking for is either the fpd file which fits the Heidenreich case or maybe a ready made panel. The fpd file I found in the Wiki seems to be not specifically made for the Heidenreich case. I prever a fpd file which is proven to fit into the Heidenreich case before trying to adapt Wilbas files to the case.

To prove that I have some PCBs here are the images of assembled sammichSIDs and sammichFM, and image of PCB of MB6582. Ideally, I would like to run a 10 pcs batch of MB6582 and for example donate 25% of revenue to Midibox project and to authors. If community and authors will approve it - I can make it. I made sammichSIDs so MB6582 would be better and more interesting. I'm just still curious if it is possible to buy originally expected enclosure. I think it is better to construct a new one using acrylic materials and probably just a PCB with a drawing for a front panel.

Hi ssp, I don't remember if labels can be called from a map, but i don't think so. However, i think it is possible to change the display using a .ngr script. Bests Thomas

Hello, first of all thank you for your previous answers. I haven't fixed the problem with the pads yet. I'm focusing on another problem for now: with the LED rings. with 16 led ring of 16 led no problem. when I add more, the LEDs flicker. https://youtu.be/HyLkVeFtALw?si=gT09lbCxEwLRmHt8 I read here: http://midibox.org/forums/topic/21095-lre-4x1-breakable-rgb-led-ringrotary-encoder-pcb-bulk-order/?do=findComment&comment=184155 FantomXR had flickering problems, solved with a 10uf capacitor. Should I add a 10uf capacitor at the input of my LED ring cards? (as in the image below) (C129) To understand my configuration see the pdfs: LEDRING: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XpDQBUE42IqXpXicO--B2gfIoNQDh5ga/view?usp=drive_link “power card”: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NJ-H-QXD-tl9rU6nbYdEh2Q4jFqjWt6b/view?usp=drive_link I made a PCB that I call a “power card” that I supply with 5v 10 amps. The J2 connector of the "power card" is connected to J4b of core 32. Connector J44 of the first OLED card is connected to J3 of the “power card” Connector J45 of the first OLED card is connected to J4 of the “power card” Connector J44 of the second OLED card is connected to J5 of the “power card” Connector J45 of the second OLED card is connected to J6 of the “power card” etc.. Thank you

Hi all , Was wondering about opening a KiCAD Section in the wiki? For tutorials , midibox libs etc... where should i put it? regards, JK Edit : A Frontpanel designer section could be useful too ?That's a soft that i think most of us use? Maybe create a "Softwares" Section?

the ssd1306 oleds i received where 5V tolerant... the ws2812b is also in a range from 3.3-5.3V, dout modules also needs 5V... so your reichelt psu should do the job, and you could power them directly from the psu... but i guess you power them with the ribbon cables from your core... i dont know what Core you will use? if you use the WCORE from midiphy, then you may ran into some problems when using a external 5V PSU, see this topic: https://forum.midiphy.com/d/151-wcore-non-usb-powerd-but-still-use-as-usb-device/5 also if you are unlucky you will get walking lines on your SSD1306 screens... then it best it would to buffer each D0 D1 Clock... Pins, which are done for example in this module: http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=displaydriver-smd a plus is then you can then use more then 8 screens!

@ pusbutton: the LEDs in the shematic are REVERSED for example look into: http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_doutx4_32leds.pdf but in the board itself the Silkscreen for the Diode is painted correct - so if somebody just solder the PCB without looking into the Shematic - all is good, when someone look into the shematic he may be confused a bit. what type off Switch are using here > type it on the silkscreen - like you did on the Potentiometerboard. because: i see in the footprint its a le mec > then there are different types, with different Switch contacts - like you see here: 5GTH9 + 5ETH9 will work, while 5GTH9 with inbuilt LED will not work off course... i for me find the correct switch matching to your PCBs Footprint-Pinout - a bit hard... so label the type.... the rest off the PCB looks ok.

at RGB-Leds > i dont know, how many you will use? which coremodule you will use? is it eurorackbased > and eurorack powerd? Which RGB-LED you will use - and what is the Voltage it needs? and so on.... i looked into your files.... some notices: @BP: dont connect the mountingholes to ground, or any other potential, best would be to make a keep out-area (sperrfläche) arround it, like i did for example here: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?w=600&tok=f96292&media=phatline:daw-btn-3d-b.jpg since you can plastic and/or metall standoffs to mount that pcb to the panel, you would need at least 6mm or more keepout-area.... background: you want to avoid groundloops over the frontpanel, and the risk of a electrical shock is less.... The LEDs in the diagram are connected false, the tip off the arrow should always be connected to the ground. (you should turn them 180°) which buttons do you want to use? please check the pinout off them... for me it happend that i did not connect the correct pins, so double check this.... why you made those cuts on the 4 corners? its better to make them rectangular - background: if you panelize the pcb, you have to draw a V-Grove line, the machine can only Grove in 90°, the idea, is to put 2 off this boards on one 100x100 PCB so you can save money on FAB.... way more oversight you have if you use a Groundsymbol... instead off paint Lines to a ground inside your shematic... look into "control" to see what i mean...also it makes it easyier to work with groundplanes, since this needs a NET... @Control: please open this file:Control.zip the same like above, and, you dont need that vias next to PIN 2 off the switches > Pin 2 is a via itself.... - same for Pin 1 off P2, the Problem it did not fill without your Vias: because you dont used a Ground-Net.... Pin1 - which is labeld as VDD (+) was connect to all your buttons and the pot (which is a Encoder)... normaly we connect them to ground..... VSS is ground.... so i exchanged the whole thing.... i dont know iff this is then still correct in your big picture- wiring diagram.... how ever thats the way i would make it - at least iff the Pin-Labels off the IDC Connectors are right... you should put the 4 mounting holes in the shematic, so you dont loose them when updating the PCB Also dont label your Encoder with Pot or RV >>> this is not a Potentiometer... that confused me until i realized this is a Encoder.... also the google-Drive files are a bit corrupt - the footprints where not assigned to the Shematic symbols...... when you save the project and upload it somewhere - zip it inside Kicad with "Projektdaten archivieren" - dont know the french word for it. -please overwork also your BP like/or simular like i did.... @Fader 1/2.... please open this file: Fad_2.zip shematic: also better use GND and VDD Nets.... more oversight! if you dont use a Pin off your IDC-Header (P5), then "x" them out with the blue "x" on the right side off your editor.... For what are those outer Mounting holes? they are too near to the Faders...make the pcb bigger so there is space for a Spacer/standoff, or use only the 4 inner mounting holes... which i think is enough.... again better 90° corners.... fill out your Shematics "Circuit-Field" right down - dont know the englisch or french word for "Plankopf" ... by the way you can design your own "Plankopf", so you dont see there thing like "KiCAD E.D.,A kicad 6.0.10......" keep out for mounting holes again... (see PB) dont make outher planes on VDD(+) ... mostly there can happen problems when mounting the thing to a panels, better use Ground-Planes... When looking on your FAders Footprint, and on the DAtasheet for the RA6020F then i am not sure iff the pinout is correct (the datasheet is bullshit...) but i guess you imported the Symbol and Footprint from mouser or something....then i guess its oky.... also use the design-rule check function (in a shematic and PCB-Editor) i did not looked in the other kicad-projects... but i guess its the same - a bit overwork needet..

Yes, absolutely. Please PM me for details, ideally including your location so I can give you a shipping quote if interested.

Hello all Selling my midibox sequencer including breakout box. The sequencer is fully functional, from a non-smoking household. Has never been used for live performances, only studio use. The breakout box is a bit obvious DIY but fully functional. You need a free slot in the modular system for the +-12V power supply. Selling price 1350,-€. best regards rbv2 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/midiphy-sequencer-v4-midibox-stepsequencer/2241157248-74-4257

Looks very nice and neat .I didnt know you are so busy with things . (Thank you for your support). I was working a lot with max/msp and m4l too. Its a lot of fun , but it takes a lot of time as well :) . Enjoy and keep up this amazing work.

So good and inspiring to see what you are creating! Good luck with your further progress, I‘m watching you :-)!

could be... you can try to filter out some psu-spikes by soldering a 100nf (maybe add also a 1uF or higher for too more stabilize the psu as addition) cap between + and - on the potis legs (most off the time these are the outer 2 legs off the trio)

@poti; if the shaft's center is in the end on the same position - so same frontpanel holes can be used.... and: when soldering the thing: first mount the pcbs with loose potis on the frontpanel then solder it (and document this in the "how too build"... @ - : use thermal destress traces (cant remember the kicad word) when using groundplanes, so you can desolder the the poti much easier.

Very cool….well done.

Here's the gerbers for the MB-6582 panel set pictured in this thread... Please credit @listen202 and @Manu29 for their efforts... _MB6582_Panel_L202-Manu.zip _MB6582_Rear_L202-Manu.zip

Idem, il va transformer mon AX80 , slurps. Plus sérieusement, bravo pour le travail effectué, félicitations! Si j'ai bien compris, il n'est pas polyphonique? Merci d'avance pour la réponse.

Salut bruno, on fait comment pour t'en acheter un ? ;o)

Hi Therezin, I mounted the monitor upside-down because of the viewing angle. This specific monitor has been designed to be looked at from above. It's actually pretty good from around 10° to 90°, but from 95° to 180°, the visibility is very bad. Therefore i had to reverse it so when i seat behind my desk, i'm in the good range. Let me know if this explanation is not clear enough, it's pretty hard to describe in a foreign language. Thomas

Sure, that should work!

ok i am in austria... so maybe a other one?

It's not quite clear to me what you want to do? You want to have one J89 SRIO chain and switch between several Cores? If that's right, it is trivial to make a Johnson counter/decade counter out of a 4017 chip. You could think to use the output enable pin(s) of the buffer (541 or 125) that is used to interface the buss to the core. Each Core gets one buffer with the datalines connected to the inputs (+DIN to an output), the outputs are common to the J89 chain (+ the serial in). Advance the counter to "turn on" one chip.

Aah, quite the variety of modules. The first one is a GM5 USB to MIDI Interface. This board only has 1 pair of MIDI in/out, the jumper can be used to connect a further 4 MIDO io pairs. Then we have a pair of LPCxpresso boards for the 1st gen LPC1769 STM32 microcontroller. This is a variant of MBcore 32. You dock these to a baseboard and voilà. Then we have a Microchip dev board that’s not normally a part of the MIDIbox ecosystem. Followed by a Pic18F452 MBcore8 for older projects like MBsid, MBfm and the like. Last is an AoutNG - an 8-Channel 12-bit DAC board for analog outputs. This is mainly used for the generation of up to 8 CVs at 1V/oct. These can be unipolar or bipolar. Other scales are available in the MIDIbox software. These can drive analog VCOs, VCFs and such.

I get the same, but one trick is to highlight the entire contents and "print" the page to PDF. Then you should get the images in line. Best, Andy

After some CRAZY international shipping delays (>4 months), my SwinSID Ultimates have finally shown up! My first observation was "Jeeze, they've jammed a lot of tech into these bad boys", from the top-to-bottom and on both sides... I count two MCUs (an Atmel Mega 168PA and an ATtiny85), plus a Xilinx CPLD (sort of like a small FPGA). Then there's three LEDs (Red, Green and Yellow - one for each SID voice), and that massive crystal oscillator (the SG615). Visually, they come across as being 'a bit over engineered', especially when you compare them to the elegant and pro looking ARM2SIDs. Given all the parts, they wind up costing ~$10 USD more than the ARMSID (assuming you can even find them). We all know that beauty is only skin deep and looks can be deceiving, so best to dig right into the sound quality... I decided it would be easiest (and quickest) to test these from my Ultimate 64, because it has Zif sockets and an integrated SID player that supports stereo tracks (e.g., all the 2SID and 3SID tracks from the High Voltage SID Collection)... As always, interested to hear any thoughts & comments... Notes: The real SIDs are 8580 R5 The SwinSID Ultimates are both configured to emulate 8580 The ARM2SIDs are cable-connected, in "Stereo Socket Mode", with both configured to emulate 8580

@Hawkeye Thank you for the thoughtful replies. It is easy to think of future wishes and add ons but at the same time forget about how it would effect everything else. I love the Seq4+, very little I would change! And the fact that I can get into the code and try things myself is pretty amazing. That alone is a "feature" that very few seq's can boast. @flyweightIf I was looking for more humanized recordings I'd use the longer tracks with higher divisions OR the humanizer feature! Also, you can specify your own shuffle parameters, you may find something that gives you YOUR feel.. if you could analyze how your beats groove, you may just be able to create that groove as a template and there ya go. May be worth digging into. At the same time, your experience and learning from building the Seq is not lost if you sell it. You lost time, yes. I'm sure if you put it on the market it will sell pretty quickly. ~Steve

Good. Maybe someone need good midi samples for beatmaking www.lucidsamples.com/edm-samples-packs/278-edm-magical-midis-vol-3.html and https://www.loopmasters.com/search?q=midi

for those who don't find a sd card socket for the core stm32F4. you could use micro SD card and the ADAPTATOR will be the socket like:http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_sdcard.html first solder unused component legs to the adaptator: solder to the core but leave some space to the board for avoid short (be carefull pinning): you could fix it (glue) if you want (not done for me legs are sufficiant) et voila!