nILS

Okay, then some more info. The initial idea was to make a tiny yet fully working and easy to use and cheap and cool sequencer. Something you can use to test synth settings, carry around with you in a small bag, make some cool 303ish sequences with. Then Wilba used his big persuasion hammer on me and feature creeped the living hell out of it. Well, a bit a least. The firmware is still an early alpha version and roughly does this: - Plays 4 sequences of 8 steps each in different modes (1, 12, 123, 1234, random, ...) - For each step you can set note, velocity, 2 CCs, Accent and Glide - "Swing" - No deep menu structures, flat hierarchies, easy to get where you wanna - Stores sequences locally on a bankstick or dumps/receives them via midi - For each thing you can edit there's 3 modes, ie edit the active step, every step of the active pattern (8 steps) or all 4 patterns. - It will also have an arpeggiator mode, that'l let you trigger the sequences via MIDI Ya know, the fun stuff for live fiddling :)

It's not based on mbSEQ, and it's not necessarily "upcoming" either, so far it's just a neat little project. It's basically a 8x4 step sequencer. Period. The most curious thing about it is probably, that it's designed by a guy who doesn't like sequencers, which might make this little fella a rather interesting and erm maybe even a bit different. And to make sure we don't get the same amount of misspelling going as with the sammichSID and sammichFM (notice the capitalization, get it right or face the wrath of Wilba) - it's kaffeSEQ. Lower-case german coffee with a missing e followed by an upper-case SEQ :yes:

What exactly is and isn't working? I am kinda missing that info in the post ;) Yes. Your multitmeter charges the caps for a moment, once they're charged the beep ends.

Patience is a virtue :)

You mean you won't try anytime soon, but you *know* it's the problem? I need to get myself one of them crystal balls as well.

We have this really neat blacklist of known-to-be-buggy MIDI interfaces. For some reason, we didn't have a whitelist of know-to-work ones. Now we do. Please fill in the MIDI interfaces you have succesfully tested with MIOS(32)! http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=midi_interface_whitelist Cheers, nILS

Das meinte ich. Ich hab's schon bei ein paar verschiedenen Synths erlebt, dass das ganz böse ins Auge gehen kann.

Bin mir nicht sicher, ob es das "darf", "sollte" aber auf keinen Fall.

Rule of thumb is "make the heatsink as big as possible". You can calculate it though ;) Just take the voltage drop (Vin-Vout for instance 12V-5V = 7V), multiply that by the current (for instance 1.5A) and you'll get some number of Watts (10.5 in our example). Sounds good. If they'll do, well testing will tell. A switchmode supply should work very well for you. A notebook or PC power supply might do the trick - they typically give you regulated 5V and 12V, so there's no extra heat generated by the vregs on the core module. Also in keep in mind that the faders (if you wanna use motorized ones) need 12V or thereabouts for the motors.

Anything can be done. It's all a matter of how much money and time you're willing to spend. It'S kinda hard (and I am too lazy) to visualize the box. Draw us a nice little mockup - that'll make checking out your idea a lot easier. Basically there's 2 scenarios for them: 1) Used with an encoder. Encoders don't have a pointer on the knob and no "status", so you use a LED ring to display where the encoder position is. 2) Used with a pot. When you bank the channels or load a different setup, your pots will remain where they where before, not necessarily showing the right values. A LED ring can help show where they should be or where the software thinks they are. Mute, Solo, Record, maybe transport status. You'll have to count. Go to ucapps.de find out how many inputs/outputs you get per AIN/DIN/DOUT module. Count how many modules you'll need, find out how many cores you'll need to connect those modules to. They will get hotter. If they'll get too hot depends on the current draw. More current draw = more heat. That doesn't change anything. The generated heat will be split across two vregs, but the overall amount will be the same + a bit. Don't do that. 1.5A should be okk for most boxes. Again it all depends on how many displays, faders, LEDs, ... you have.

So? If you want one, isn't that all it takes to make one? If you ask for more detailed help I am sure you'll get more responses. What exactly is it you can't do and need help with?

Awesome, Mike! :whistle: :frantics:

From a quick glance at the datasheet it looks like those should work.

I accept :frantics:

He will absolutely not be. The fpe order makes sense for all USians, and they should team up and get a good price. What you do is very helpful to the community in general and for the europeans in particular and if it makes getting panels *cheaper* as well - all good.

So you had a hidden ninja-spark stuck in the switch? :ninja:

That's been done before. Browse through the "midibox of the week" section for some inspiration.

Pretty :)

Happy B-Day, TK!

Does this only happen when D1 is low or is D0 simple always low? Either way this points towards a short on the hardware side of things.

Für den Fall, das ich nächstes Mal dabei bin, will ich jetzt schon mal anmerken, dass von mir - südlich von Berlin - ausschließlich Tannenzäpfle getrunken wird :)

I accept.

Yes, the PIC will work. The firmware is not the same, you'll have to upload the sammichSID hex file. How about fixing that then? ;)

When you get it working (or if you don't) drop by the chat and do the it's-working-dance (or ask for more help) :)