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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/02/2022 in Posts

  1. Hey everyone, just wanted to share my latest build since I'm sure there are some 3D printing enthusiasts here like myself. I bought the parts for an MB6582 about 5 years ago, if you remember Meeblip was selling those 8580 SID chips and I picked up 8 of them, and then put everything into a box in a closet . 3D printing has come a very long way since the original MB6582 was created by Wilba. I read that the JB Weld solution may or may not be holding up great after all this time. Also, I wanted to use a Newhaven OLED which is much thinner than the original LCD. I thought there must be a solution to lower the gap distance so why not create some type of spacer for between the front panel and the PCB? I designed all parts in Fusion360. The PCB screws directly into the spacer using M2.5 nuts/screws and plastic screws. The top of it has a flange that rests in the panel groove for the PT-10. Total spacer height is 5.7mm which is the height of the base of the encoders. The front panel is another 1.25mm. Everything is printed out of ASA, which is very strong and heat resistant. I designed the panel graphics in Inkscape and printed on translucent vinyl. I used Davies knobs with small printed skirts to cover up the threads of the encoders since they were exposed. I do not have a vinyl autocutter but I do have an exacto and lots of patience Overall tried going with a 80s beige computer look. A build plate for my printer created the carbon fiber effect on the panel. I'm happy to share the 3D files if anyone could use them.
    2 points
  2. Hey man. It's actually an FR4-Standard PCB. Non aluminium. But seems pretty robust anyway.
    2 points
  3. Prompted by a message from freddy, I've attached the project files below. They contain the source and the binaries for the bootloader and the main code. 1.05 is the latest version - there was a fix in the bootloader and the main code. I included some memory in the final hardware design but never got around to doing anything useful with it. I had plans to save one or more demo tunes as MIDI files and perhaps save some settings as profiles for different scenarios - my interests had moved on before that happened. You can find more project info at https://web.archive.org/web/20210206041027/http://www.grapevyne.com/pic.projects/ - the documentation links are all active so you can download the magazine articles and also my original source for the articles (a few errors crept into the magazine article during editing). mistralXG project files.zip mistralBoot.zip
    1 point
  4. Hi all I am having a very hard time making any progress with a problem with my left LeMec board. When I first assembled the JA and LeMec boards and tested them, everything was working on JA board and the two LeMec boards except: - encoder 3 on left Lemec board was not registering depress events - encoder 8 on left LeMec board was generating garbage counter values when rotating. Since then I have gone backwards and been stuck for over several weeks with no progress. I first tried to solve the issues above with reflowing the ICs on left LeMec board but that didn't help. I then reflowed the ICs on the core, and after that, I am in this worse state with left LeMec board - encoder 8 does not register turns - none of the encoders are registering push events - 4 leftmost buttons on are not registering push events - 12 of the 16 LEDs light up immediately upon powering up as seen in attached pic I haven't bothered testing the Matias switch events as this is enough wrong already I have reflowed the ICs, diodes and transistors on that board multiple times, and on the core board too, and nothing is changing. The only advice I get from Midiphy is to reflow/check for dry joints/shorts which I have done over and over. It would help to have proper circuit diagrams to try to chase down likely culprits instead of messing with everything all the time. If I just connect the JA board to core and run the seq_l test, that is still testing fine for everything. The right LeMec board is out of the picture for now; I think it was all working well at least. Any help will be most welcome as I am close to assuming I just have to abandon this and write it off as a very expensive exercise in frustration and futility. Thanks Graham
    1 point
  5. II replaces the remaining ICs and its working! Woohoo!
    1 point
  6. Reflowed the ttasnsistors on the top side and now I am back to 12 LEDs on. I'm assuming the LEDs shouldn't be on, but otherwise that feels like an improvement as it means I get mattias switch events for 12 of 16. I'm also getting events for depresses on the right 4 encoders although they seem a bit random in the actual event details. I've also replaced IC2, IC3 and T3 based on advice from ChatGPT but that made no difference.
    1 point
  7. Thanks, perhaps I'll shoot over to the UK ;-) I've rebuilt the core board now and I'm back where roughly where I started. At least I feel confident I have eliminated the core as a possible cause; the problem must be with my LeMec board. Done some more reflowing on that board and now: - just 4 LEDs light up on power up now - all encoders generate counts when rotated but not depresses - botton left 4 buttons generate no events; bottom right four are working - mattias switches generate events for the four that have illuminated LEDs but not the rest
    1 point
  8. This looks amazing! With some of the older chips like vintage vca, filter or delay chips you really have to be careful regarding heat and also (or even more so) static discharge. Nowadays with most ics these issues have long been solved by modern manufacturing processes and built in safety measures. I had to lear the hard way that this is not the case with chips from the 80s... So the heatsink is probably a good idea, as would be any way to allow for some airflow. On the other hand, i have removed the fans from some of my gear with no issues at all, as commercial units have to consider every worst case scenario (crowded rack in hot environment). So if you know how you use your gear you can get away with things that could not be allowed for every scenario.
    1 point
  9. Hello, When i mute part, i can do it by bottom row (normal known behavior), but also the top row. So it's confusing. Being able to mute only on bottom row will make the workflow more consistant. Or it could also being interesting to be able to mute differently between upper and bottom row. Like top row track 1-16 mute. Bottom row group 1-4 mute. Thanks in advance, Have a good day, Rgds,
    1 point
  10. MB-6582 SOLD Selling these as I no longer use them. I assembled the MB-6582 myself. It has 6x 8580 SIDs installed, and could use some TLC: - The encoders occasionally skip counts when adjusting them. I think this is just down to a bad batch so replacing them should fix it - Some of the standoffs that attach the front panel to the CS PCB have come unstuck and need to be reglued The SEQ V4 works perfectly €500 for either unit I am based in Spain
    1 point
  11. Hi Niles, I still have original mb6582 encoders, bulk ordered and sent by Wilba. Working perfectly! Would you like some? Best
    1 point
  12. Arrived and kicking. Thank u for your service ❤️
    1 point
  13. Confirmed over here, no humanizer being applied to CC’s. I tried with an empty track sending layer A as CC on buss 1, and another track listing to buss 1. The listening track was responding to the cc’s, but humanizer did not effect the CC’s. Then moved the cc to layer B (usually the velocity layer) and still no changing of CC’s sent. steve
    1 point
  14. Thanks for the tpd-test app it really helped me along with this build!.
    1 point
  15. i made a passive design, since the fan which came from mouser, was dead from the beginning... since it is a 6582, it was not going very hot anyway... but i drilled Holes into the pcb under the SID-Sockets, and cut aways some plastic from the socket too. i too drilled some holes in the plastic body under the Main-PCB too, the backside off the SID should be enough to get rid off the hot air...
    1 point
  16. More like 7 years later :D Update 2024 I wanted to use my MIDIbox SEQ V4 more, in different situations, and make it more portable. I have made a new case in aluminium, so I can move all the modules, the CS frontpanel and the MIDI socket panel from the suitcase to the new case easy, and connect all the in's and out's on the new case to the modules.
    1 point
  17. Hi ssp, I don't remember if labels can be called from a map, but i don't think so. However, i think it is possible to change the display using a .ngr script. Bests Thomas
    1 point
  18. Just a small necro-bump :-) …by now we are roughly 150 people over there with some occasional chatting going on. Feel free to drop by!
    1 point
  19. the next generation off Triggermatrix, with insights to shematic, the board-files i will not set free... the Pictures from the Boards are for debugging reasons only. where possible, i made pick and place ready boards - to reduce soldering time... at this point the big BLM16x16 board is not pick and place ready. WIKI: Triggermatrix 5 Display-Driver-SMD BLM16x16-V2 Core 4 Discovery Core 4 Disc - Midi Expansion TM5-codeblock TM5 Din Dout Gates TM5 Gate - Breakoutboards TM5 Gate - In TM5-Housing
    1 point
  20. Hello, I have a rebound problem with the sparkfun pads, do you have an idea how to fix this? Hardware? Software ? Thanks The rest works fine
    1 point
  21. j2/j17 should do the trick yes.
    1 point
  22. the ssd1306 oleds i received where 5V tolerant... the ws2812b is also in a range from 3.3-5.3V, dout modules also needs 5V... so your reichelt psu should do the job, and you could power them directly from the psu... but i guess you power them with the ribbon cables from your core... i dont know what Core you will use? if you use the WCORE from midiphy, then you may ran into some problems when using a external 5V PSU, see this topic: https://forum.midiphy.com/d/151-wcore-non-usb-powerd-but-still-use-as-usb-device/5 also if you are unlucky you will get walking lines on your SSD1306 screens... then it best it would to buffer each D0 D1 Clock... Pins, which are done for example in this module: http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=displaydriver-smd a plus is then you can then use more then 8 screens!
    1 point
  23. Hi Long time I don't play with NG config, but It should be possible with enc_mode=Inc41_Dec3F , combined with fwd to 2 sender and conditional filtering, something like if_equal=0x41 send note A, and if_equal=0x3F send note B ?
    1 point
  24. @ Faderboard 1 & 2 Mounting holes labeling not necessery again. rest is ok. you may could label + and - beside the 2x5 shroudet Pinheaders, so there is no chance someone reverse it in a way... in generell... normally the Nose- says all, but someone could crimp the cable incorrect... so if he controll measure, this is a good hint then for him.
    1 point
  25. @ pusbutton: the LEDs in the shematic are REVERSED for example look into: http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_doutx4_32leds.pdf but in the board itself the Silkscreen for the Diode is painted correct - so if somebody just solder the PCB without looking into the Shematic - all is good, when someone look into the shematic he may be confused a bit. what type off Switch are using here > type it on the silkscreen - like you did on the Potentiometerboard. because: i see in the footprint its a le mec > then there are different types, with different Switch contacts - like you see here: 5GTH9 + 5ETH9 will work, while 5GTH9 with inbuilt LED will not work off course... i for me find the correct switch matching to your PCBs Footprint-Pinout - a bit hard... so label the type.... the rest off the PCB looks ok.
    1 point
  26. @ potentiometer: looking good, but labeling the Holes is not necessery (i think) :
    1 point
  27. maybe by removing the pull-Hi resistor off the HC165 Circuit, and using a Inverter on its inputs for example: https://www.mouser.at/ProductDetail/Nexperia/74HCT1G14GW-Q100H?qs=SKY61BOKKY4Uv%2FaFLc8SsQ%3D%3D https://www.mouser.at/datasheet/2/916/74HC_HCT1G14_Q100-2937184.pdf (just a example maybe there are better parts for this porpuse, and i dont know how hard to solder this one is) that would reverse Lo and Hi, and you could use this bloddy 3 LEDs ( where i think thats not a good idea, the Encoder is expensive - and not really a standard part...) but for that quick idea i would prototype that first (order a inverter, order a Encoder, make wires without pcb) ... specially iff any pull hi or pull low resistors are needet elsewhere, i guess you need a 10K pull-low resistor (to ground) on pin 3 off your Encoder then: HC165 > Inverter > Pull-Low + Pin3 since i have not much time these times, and you have plenty off modules what module i should check next? i just had a look on your 4x2 Enc RGB SW Led ring Rgb render here... and i am not 100% sure that the inbuilt RGB LEDs that enlighten the Encodersshaft dont shine on the LED-Ring and make them hard too read (maybe need some lightshielding)... by the way hard too read, those Alps Knobs are a bit big for that small Ledring - can you still see the LEDs when looking from a angle that is not 100% from top?
    1 point
  28. hei i stripped down the BLM-Project (so it cant be cloned with out weeks off routing U B ;) ) BLM-how-to.zip and i wrote some explaination... basicly i made a Grid with a center-cross - so a single button-LED-Fottprint can be placed correct to the Rubber-Button-Grid... you may have to set a a new "zero position off the Kicad Grid" to this crosses when you place the Button-LED-Fottprint on them... this Grid also have the Holes for the PCB which are needet to hold the rubber in Position.. maybe you find a "Flip-Chip" Variant for your RGB-LED... it would be better... you should not place it on the TOP side off the PCB... because it will illuminate the Neightbar-Button-Rubbers... The Hole in the PCB where the LEDs shine thru, act as a Light-Shield... I too have to draw a RGB-LED board (for a other Task, to illuminate a Frontpanel...), since i dont have expierence with that RGB-LEDs... this will take a while... if you found a solution i would copy it from you.... At Kicad 7... didnt know there is a stable out... good to know... will update too (else i cant check your projects)
    1 point
  29. That's absolutely glorious Peter! Nice work (as always!)
    1 point
  30. You can leave off the USB, it's only an additional +5V power option selectable by jumper..
    1 point
  31. @Hawkeye I have never seen those tutorials before! don't know how I missed that, there is a wealth of info there. Following the tutorial the transpose works, under the scheme laid out in the tutorial. I will try the Root method next and report back. Thanks!
    1 point
  32. So good and inspiring to see what you are creating! Good luck with your further progress, I‘m watching you :-)!
    1 point
  33. could be... you can try to filter out some psu-spikes by soldering a 100nf (maybe add also a 1uF or higher for too more stabilize the psu as addition) cap between + and - on the potis legs (most off the time these are the outer 2 legs off the trio)
    1 point
  34. look into ng documentation if there can be set a offset for the middle position so it stays on a position... because pots directly to the core is always a bit random... better use for example: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_ainser8.html then you have less random values also check the quality off PSU...off course a faulty pot can be the reason too
    1 point
  35. @ cherry: the switch itself you can get already from eg https://www.reichelt.de/tastaturzubehoer-c8099.html?ACTION=2&GROUPID=8099&SEARCH=*&START=16&OFFSET=16&CCOUNTRY=445&LANGUAGE=de&r=1&SID=967792150a00d890464504461a66ae529d97182e528c945af4544 caps: amazon, alibaba,.maybe.some thing like that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FYO8EDC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=flat%2Bkeycaps&qid=1675511770&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1 https://www.cherrymx.de/en/dev.html the low profile is maybe interesting....
    1 point
  36. @poti; if the shaft's center is in the end on the same position - so same frontpanel holes can be used.... and: when soldering the thing: first mount the pcbs with loose potis on the frontpanel then solder it (and document this in the "how too build"... @ - : use thermal destress traces (cant remember the kicad word) when using groundplanes, so you can desolder the the poti much easier.
    1 point
  37. control hardware yes, if it is well documentadet on the wiki (shematic, board screenshot) I too work with kicad since decades... and very sucessfull now with my actual projects - i was wondering but i planed it in kicad, and most off the boards where working 100% out off the Box (pick and place JLCPCB), ok i had a design fault on one, but that was solved with a wire-done. actual projects http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=triggermatrix5 http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=daw-ableton http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=openpad software: cant help, write my own Mios-based code, havent look into MidiboxNG - since it is a script, for me more easy to write it directly in C, (need to understand all, else i understand/learn nothing...) - so no help from this side had good expierences with jlcpcb... also with the Pick and Place service FrontPanels: maybe cheap CNC-Laser-Cutting from pcbway? https://www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/CNC-machining/CNC-Laser-Cutting-Services.html suggestions? Maybe use Eurorackformat, so it can be used outside of your box too? suggestion, where usefull (wo sinnvoll) use J89 Serial Chain directly onboard (like encoder with ledring boards) to reduce wireing - a simple button board dont needs that of course.... *** if you go the Serial Chain way, then buffer the Serial chain on each module to keep the digital Signal Quality intact (very necessery) *** buffer: search for SN74LVC1G17DBVR in this shematic: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=phatline:blm16x16-shematic.pdf maybe use pick and place ready smd technologoy like i did: that makes it smaller, and less to solder, less to debug, the plastic packages stays in china, more economical special when ordering more pcbs, by that of course a module should fit all the boxes (a exotic 1 man needs it module 10times fabricated is 9 too much...) i think i dont have to say, that you should choose "Basic" Parts, and not "extendet parts" on JLCPCB, - off course on most modules you have at least one or two extendeet parts... but for example a DINX4 or DOUTX4 can be made with basic parts only... but when you also want to pick and place all the pin headers - these are extendet parts, how ever ... you may look on my last modules a bit http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=tm5-dindoutgate http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=doutx2dinx1 if you use long cables to your Displays + u use more displays then one - on the modules, use a display driver (no more walking lines) http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=displaydriver-smd what else? if you make ground or other PCB-Planes, then setup kicad that it make 1-2mm space arround solderpoints - else the Soldering Man could make shorts, or electrocemical oxidations or solder flux-low-residance could make there some problems (after years), special when the Solderstop-Pain is scratched a bit... ... and so on... PS i hate this wooble feeling off this LeMec Buttons (the last board you posted) - these Buttons are not good (for my taste) I love to work with this ones: https://www.reichelt.de/at/de/eingabetaster-schaltspannung-24v-fuer-led-sw-dtl-2-sw-p7248.html?&trstct=pos_0&nbc=1 they are expensive, but they last decades (in use, and also if you order 300 off them and let them lye arround, after 15 years they still work) They have good CLICK, like a mechanical Keyboard. your leMec Buttons are like a mixture off Rubberdome and "i have to touch this buttons into one direction X=0 Y=0 else it want switch" or you could use: https://www.midiphy.com/en/shop-details/140/4/5pcs-matias-quiet-click-tactile-switch- they are cheap but big... (aka take away a lot of Frontpanel space) or maybe you use cherry switches or simulars.... they are all 1000% better then this leMecs... ( you notice i hate them)
    1 point
  38. this will take a while - look into the forum in 5 weeks or so. i need the PCB to make a new version off Triggermatrix (http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=triggermatrix4) the Frontpanel is not a generic MatrixController thing - it has 17 Displays, 8 Faders, some rotarys and buttons, the Software for this is not a normal Midicontroller-code (aka Midibox NG) - its my own creation a sequencer based on MIOS. - but if i not make a shematic mistake, the pcb should be usable like the orginal BLM16*16+X in other Midibox Projects.
    1 point
  39. 1 point
  40. Hi Therezin, I mounted the monitor upside-down because of the viewing angle. This specific monitor has been designed to be looked at from above. It's actually pretty good from around 10° to 90°, but from 95° to 180°, the visibility is very bad. Therefore i had to reverse it so when i seat behind my desk, i'm in the good range. Let me know if this explanation is not clear enough, it's pretty hard to describe in a foreign language. Thomas
    1 point
  41. Hi everyone! Quick update here. I finally finished my controller and installed it in my small control-room. Here it is. I really like the way it turned out, i'm working with it since 2 weeks now, and it's a real bonus to the ergonomics. It still have room for improvements but that was expected and i will continue to work on it in the next future. I'd like to thank everyone on this forum who helped me build this and a BIG thanks to TK and all the midibox team. Without this place I would have never been able to even start this project. Cheers, Thomas
    1 point
  42. @Hawkeye Thank you for the thoughtful replies. It is easy to think of future wishes and add ons but at the same time forget about how it would effect everything else. I love the Seq4+, very little I would change! And the fact that I can get into the code and try things myself is pretty amazing. That alone is a "feature" that very few seq's can boast. @flyweightIf I was looking for more humanized recordings I'd use the longer tracks with higher divisions OR the humanizer feature! Also, you can specify your own shuffle parameters, you may find something that gives you YOUR feel.. if you could analyze how your beats groove, you may just be able to create that groove as a template and there ya go. May be worth digging into. At the same time, your experience and learning from building the Seq is not lost if you sell it. You lost time, yes. I'm sure if you put it on the market it will sell pretty quickly. ~Steve
    1 point
  43. Hi, Check or add the correct path in environment: Page 14 in the pdf Best Bruno
    1 point
  44. Hi guys, I don't know the best for your project but I can explain what I did for the OLRE16. First is the MASK, it's black PMMA. Both sides are milled. I let some space between the leds on the pcb to keep some matters between the leds housing. Led size is 1.5x2mm On the other side(front side) there's some stripes which will fit inside the translucent PMMA, they will block the light between the leds, between the rings and between the rings and the oleds. . Note: the olre16 top pcb(ring) has no component on the top except the leds and the oleds. In blue are the back leds housing. In Red there are the holes. In Yellow, some stripes to block the light on the front, those stripes will fit inside the back of the translucent PMMA. The second part is the 'WINDOW', in translucent white PMMA, it's a LED special one, the same I used for the beat led window of the Seqv4+. The back part will fit inside the MASK, in other word the base of the WINDOW will receive the MASK's stripes, of course the WINDOW's pipes are in front of the MASK's holes. Then the Aluminum front panel comes to finish blocking the light and the pipes of the WINDOW will fit inside the panel, flush the surface. When they are coupled When coupled , assembled the thickness without the pipes height(front panel thickness) doesn't exceed 2.5mm Voilà! I don't know if it will help you and It's surely an "over-engineered" thing but this is the only solution I found, and it works. Best regards Bruno
    1 point
  45. Hey people, in this thread I'll post time after time updates about my latest keyboard build. Also I'll use this thread to publish eagle-PCB-layout-files and schematics. But please be patient. Uploading and documenting all that stuff is highly time consuming and it's right before christmas. So far everything works great, but the work under the hood was really time consuming because I used a lot of modules... some available from Tim, some I did on my own. I think modules are great if you need high flexibility... and all the modules are working perfectly. But if it comes down to save space and wiring, modules are a mess. Anyway... here we go: So I was tired using a laptop, a soundcard, tons of cables and all that stuff on stage. So I thought: What if I put the computer into the keyboard? It was quite successful. I used an Mini-ITX mainboard from Gigabyte, an i5-3570k (I'd go with a better i7 if I hadn't had that i5 before) with a low profile cooler. The mainboard is equipped with 16GB of RAM. Also I integrated two Samsung SSDs with 500GB each. The whole thing is powered through a Seasonic SS250U power supply. As soundcard I use a PCIe card from RME HDSPe AiO. Because this only has two audio in/outs, I also bought two expansion-board that gives me another four in and outs. The first two analog-outs are going through a self-made DI-box with high quality LEHLE-transformer... absolutely great stuff. This DI-box features also a 20dB PAD and a GND-lift. Let's hand over to the MIDIbox-side: I use two cores. One of them only takes care of the keyboard scanning. It was very important to me to not make a compromise on this. This core is connected via MIDI-out to the MIDI-In of the other core. Both cores are STM32F4 based. I used my own PCBs for that. @TK. Is it a problem if I publish those schematics and layouts for the core? I know that the official core is not published yet to cover the costs for PCB production and development. The PCB I developed only contains the connectors I need: it has J8/9, J19, J10A, J11 and J30 (as far as I remember... don't have it right in front of me at the moment). I tried to get a smaller footprint of the whole PCB. It also features a MicroSD-card slot instead of the SD-card-slot in the official PCB. My keyboard has nine analog faders build in... they are not motorized. I don't need that for now as they are much more expensive and also take more space. Also they are more difficult to wire up and connect. At first I did some tests with the AINSER8. But after a while I gave AINSER64 a try with the result, that it has less jitter than the AINSER8. The faders are a lot more quiet than with AINSER8. As I needed more than 16 analog inputs this was needed anyway. I power the AINSER64 through the core and the core receives it's power directly from the seasonic-power supply and NOT via USB. I needed some LEDs to visualize the status of my faders. A long long time ago I wanted to start another LED-fader-project but never finished it. So I had a lot of those LED-bars laying around... I took them and putted them into the board... works and feels great! On the next revision I'd try to use one big PCB for all 9 LED-bars to safe wiring and time for mounting. Now I used two 10pin IDC connectors (with only 8 pins of each are connected to the LED-bars = 16 LEDs). I did some mistakes when assembling the LED-PCBs... now sometimes some LEDs don't work... anyway... I can live with that for now. @TK. How about the WS2812 or APA102-LEDs? Do you think it's worth using them as LED-rings? I'm not sure what the status is and if they are supported in that way by MIDIbox. Would be a great alternative but they take a lot more space than 0603 SMD LEDs of course. The LED-bars are connected to small modules I did based on @novski designs. Those small modules are equipped with one or two DIN / DOUT modules. They work great and the advantage is, that I can stack them directly on the pinheader of the PCB... no cables needed! A bit hotglue and you are ready to go. I also have 8 encoders on each side of the keyboard. The right side is not connected yet... not sure if I do need so many encoders ;-) Of course they are also equipped with LED-rings. While the LED-bars where assembled by factory (I think I used SEEED) the encoder-rings came blank... so it took me a looooooong time adding 128 0805 SMD LEDs to all PCBs... at this time I had not have my reflow-oven... with this one that might be an easy task :-) The encoders (and the switches of the encoders) are connected to a 4xDIN board from novski. I'm not sure if this board really works well. Sometimes if I set debug on, MIOS lists tons of EVENT_BUTTONS. I'll need to investigate that. Maybe it has something to do with RC1 / RC2 lines. Underneath the faders I have a set of 2x8 buttons. I'm not really happy with them. I did the caps by myself and this was a really shitty work... next time I will use tact-switches that already come with caps f.e. TC011 like I did in the 1x8 button-row right in front of the player / underneath the display. For the buttons I designed a DIO-breakout-board. This breakout-board splits the matrix configuration of the 2x8 pinheader of the DIO-module to a more usable 2x5pin header-configuration with the row on pin 1 and the switch-lines on 3-10. With this way it's very easy to connect tons of buttons to a MIDIbox. . Same for the LEDs of the buttons. I used a DOUT-module with ULN2803 as LED driver (btw. I drive all LEDs with ULN2803 and do NOT use a resistor before or after the LEDs. As those LED-lines are scanned, a limiting resistor doesn't seem to be necessary). That's mainly it... the keyboard has two MIDI I/Os on the back as well as four pedal connectors for two switches and two expression pedals. The touchscreen in the middle is a 10" capacitive screen... that works awesome!! That's the story for now... like I said I'll try to keep this thread alive and add the PCB layouts and schematics later on. Thanks for reading!! Best, Chris
    1 point
  46. for those who don't find a sd card socket for the core stm32F4. you could use micro SD card and the ADAPTATOR will be the socket like:http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_sdcard.html first solder unused component legs to the adaptator: solder to the core but leave some space to the board for avoid short (be carefull pinning): you could fix it (glue) if you want (not done for me legs are sufficiant) et voila!
    1 point
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