Leaderboard

Hi all , Was wondering about opening a KiCAD Section in the wiki? For tutorials , midibox libs etc... where should i put it? regards, JK Edit : A Frontpanel designer section could be useful too ?That's a soft that i think most of us use? Maybe create a "Softwares" Section?

the next generation off Triggermatrix, with insights to shematic, the board-files i will not set free... the Pictures from the Boards are for debugging reasons only. where possible, i made pick and place ready boards - to reduce soldering time... at this point the big BLM16x16 board is not pick and place ready. WIKI: Triggermatrix 5 Display-Driver-SMD BLM16x16-V2 Core 4 Discovery Core 4 Disc - Midi Expansion TM5-codeblock TM5 Din Dout Gates TM5 Gate - Breakoutboards TM5 Gate - In TM5-Housing

i made a passive design, since the fan which came from mouser, was dead from the beginning... since it is a 6582, it was not going very hot anyway... but i drilled Holes into the pcb under the SID-Sockets, and cut aways some plastic from the socket too. i too drilled some holes in the plastic body under the Main-PCB too, the backside off the SID should be enough to get rid off the hot air...

j2/j17 should do the trick yes.

the ssd1306 oleds i received where 5V tolerant... the ws2812b is also in a range from 3.3-5.3V, dout modules also needs 5V... so your reichelt psu should do the job, and you could power them directly from the psu... but i guess you power them with the ribbon cables from your core... i dont know what Core you will use? if you use the WCORE from midiphy, then you may ran into some problems when using a external 5V PSU, see this topic: https://forum.midiphy.com/d/151-wcore-non-usb-powerd-but-still-use-as-usb-device/5 also if you are unlucky you will get walking lines on your SSD1306 screens... then it best it would to buffer each D0 D1 Clock... Pins, which are done for example in this module: http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=displaydriver-smd a plus is then you can then use more then 8 screens!

Hi Long time I don't play with NG config, but It should be possible with enc_mode=Inc41_Dec3F , combined with fwd to 2 sender and conditional filtering, something like if_equal=0x41 send note A, and if_equal=0x3F send note B ?

@ Faderboard 1 & 2 Mounting holes labeling not necessery again. rest is ok. you may could label + and - beside the 2x5 shroudet Pinheaders, so there is no chance someone reverse it in a way... in generell... normally the Nose- says all, but someone could crimp the cable incorrect... so if he controll measure, this is a good hint then for him.

@ pusbutton: the LEDs in the shematic are REVERSED for example look into: http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_doutx4_32leds.pdf but in the board itself the Silkscreen for the Diode is painted correct - so if somebody just solder the PCB without looking into the Shematic - all is good, when someone look into the shematic he may be confused a bit. what type off Switch are using here > type it on the silkscreen - like you did on the Potentiometerboard. because: i see in the footprint its a le mec > then there are different types, with different Switch contacts - like you see here: 5GTH9 + 5ETH9 will work, while 5GTH9 with inbuilt LED will not work off course... i for me find the correct switch matching to your PCBs Footprint-Pinout - a bit hard... so label the type.... the rest off the PCB looks ok.

@ potentiometer: looking good, but labeling the Holes is not necessery (i think) :

maybe by removing the pull-Hi resistor off the HC165 Circuit, and using a Inverter on its inputs for example: https://www.mouser.at/ProductDetail/Nexperia/74HCT1G14GW-Q100H?qs=SKY61BOKKY4Uv%2FaFLc8SsQ%3D%3D https://www.mouser.at/datasheet/2/916/74HC_HCT1G14_Q100-2937184.pdf (just a example maybe there are better parts for this porpuse, and i dont know how hard to solder this one is) that would reverse Lo and Hi, and you could use this bloddy 3 LEDs ( where i think thats not a good idea, the Encoder is expensive - and not really a standard part...) but for that quick idea i would prototype that first (order a inverter, order a Encoder, make wires without pcb) ... specially iff any pull hi or pull low resistors are needet elsewhere, i guess you need a 10K pull-low resistor (to ground) on pin 3 off your Encoder then: HC165 > Inverter > Pull-Low + Pin3 since i have not much time these times, and you have plenty off modules what module i should check next? i just had a look on your 4x2 Enc RGB SW Led ring Rgb render here... and i am not 100% sure that the inbuilt RGB LEDs that enlighten the Encodersshaft dont shine on the LED-Ring and make them hard too read (maybe need some lightshielding)... by the way hard too read, those Alps Knobs are a bit big for that small Ledring - can you still see the LEDs when looking from a angle that is not 100% from top?

hei i stripped down the BLM-Project (so it cant be cloned with out weeks off routing U B ;) ) BLM-how-to.zip and i wrote some explaination... basicly i made a Grid with a center-cross - so a single button-LED-Fottprint can be placed correct to the Rubber-Button-Grid... you may have to set a a new "zero position off the Kicad Grid" to this crosses when you place the Button-LED-Fottprint on them... this Grid also have the Holes for the PCB which are needet to hold the rubber in Position.. maybe you find a "Flip-Chip" Variant for your RGB-LED... it would be better... you should not place it on the TOP side off the PCB... because it will illuminate the Neightbar-Button-Rubbers... The Hole in the PCB where the LEDs shine thru, act as a Light-Shield... I too have to draw a RGB-LED board (for a other Task, to illuminate a Frontpanel...), since i dont have expierence with that RGB-LEDs... this will take a while... if you found a solution i would copy it from you.... At Kicad 7... didnt know there is a stable out... good to know... will update too (else i cant check your projects)

That's absolutely glorious Peter! Nice work (as always!)

You can leave off the USB, it's only an additional +5V power option selectable by jumper..

@Hawkeye I have never seen those tutorials before! don't know how I missed that, there is a wealth of info there. Following the tutorial the transpose works, under the scheme laid out in the tutorial. I will try the Root method next and report back. Thanks!

at RGB-Leds > i dont know, how many you will use? which coremodule you will use? is it eurorackbased > and eurorack powerd? Which RGB-LED you will use - and what is the Voltage it needs? and so on.... i looked into your files.... some notices: @BP: dont connect the mountingholes to ground, or any other potential, best would be to make a keep out-area (sperrfläche) arround it, like i did for example here: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?w=600&tok=f96292&media=phatline:daw-btn-3d-b.jpg since you can plastic and/or metall standoffs to mount that pcb to the panel, you would need at least 6mm or more keepout-area.... background: you want to avoid groundloops over the frontpanel, and the risk of a electrical shock is less.... The LEDs in the diagram are connected false, the tip off the arrow should always be connected to the ground. (you should turn them 180°) which buttons do you want to use? please check the pinout off them... for me it happend that i did not connect the correct pins, so double check this.... why you made those cuts on the 4 corners? its better to make them rectangular - background: if you panelize the pcb, you have to draw a V-Grove line, the machine can only Grove in 90°, the idea, is to put 2 off this boards on one 100x100 PCB so you can save money on FAB.... way more oversight you have if you use a Groundsymbol... instead off paint Lines to a ground inside your shematic... look into "control" to see what i mean...also it makes it easyier to work with groundplanes, since this needs a NET... @Control: please open this file:Control.zip the same like above, and, you dont need that vias next to PIN 2 off the switches > Pin 2 is a via itself.... - same for Pin 1 off P2, the Problem it did not fill without your Vias: because you dont used a Ground-Net.... Pin1 - which is labeld as VDD (+) was connect to all your buttons and the pot (which is a Encoder)... normaly we connect them to ground..... VSS is ground.... so i exchanged the whole thing.... i dont know iff this is then still correct in your big picture- wiring diagram.... how ever thats the way i would make it - at least iff the Pin-Labels off the IDC Connectors are right... you should put the 4 mounting holes in the shematic, so you dont loose them when updating the PCB Also dont label your Encoder with Pot or RV >>> this is not a Potentiometer... that confused me until i realized this is a Encoder.... also the google-Drive files are a bit corrupt - the footprints where not assigned to the Shematic symbols...... when you save the project and upload it somewhere - zip it inside Kicad with "Projektdaten archivieren" - dont know the french word for it. -please overwork also your BP like/or simular like i did.... @Fader 1/2.... please open this file: Fad_2.zip shematic: also better use GND and VDD Nets.... more oversight! if you dont use a Pin off your IDC-Header (P5), then "x" them out with the blue "x" on the right side off your editor.... For what are those outer Mounting holes? they are too near to the Faders...make the pcb bigger so there is space for a Spacer/standoff, or use only the 4 inner mounting holes... which i think is enough.... again better 90° corners.... fill out your Shematics "Circuit-Field" right down - dont know the englisch or french word for "Plankopf" ... by the way you can design your own "Plankopf", so you dont see there thing like "KiCAD E.D.,A kicad 6.0.10......" keep out for mounting holes again... (see PB) dont make outher planes on VDD(+) ... mostly there can happen problems when mounting the thing to a panels, better use Ground-Planes... When looking on your FAders Footprint, and on the DAtasheet for the RA6020F then i am not sure iff the pinout is correct (the datasheet is bullshit...) but i guess you imported the Symbol and Footprint from mouser or something....then i guess its oky.... also use the design-rule check function (in a shematic and PCB-Editor) i did not looked in the other kicad-projects... but i guess its the same - a bit overwork needet..

Yes, absolutely. Please PM me for details, ideally including your location so I can give you a shipping quote if interested.

Hello all Selling my midibox sequencer including breakout box. The sequencer is fully functional, from a non-smoking household. Has never been used for live performances, only studio use. The breakout box is a bit obvious DIY but fully functional. You need a free slot in the modular system for the +-12V power supply. Selling price 1350,-€. best regards rbv2 https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/midiphy-sequencer-v4-midibox-stepsequencer/2241157248-74-4257

Yes you usually need a metallized knob to make the touch detection usable !!!

Looks very nice and neat .I didnt know you are so busy with things . (Thank you for your support). I was working a lot with max/msp and m4l too. Its a lot of fun , but it takes a lot of time as well :) . Enjoy and keep up this amazing work.

So good and inspiring to see what you are creating! Good luck with your further progress, I‘m watching you :-)!

could be... you can try to filter out some psu-spikes by soldering a 100nf (maybe add also a 1uF or higher for too more stabilize the psu as addition) cap between + and - on the potis legs (most off the time these are the outer 2 legs off the trio)

look into ng documentation if there can be set a offset for the middle position so it stays on a position... because pots directly to the core is always a bit random... better use for example: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_ainser8.html then you have less random values also check the quality off PSU...off course a faulty pot can be the reason too

@ cherry: the switch itself you can get already from eg https://www.reichelt.de/tastaturzubehoer-c8099.html?ACTION=2&GROUPID=8099&SEARCH=*&START=16&OFFSET=16&CCOUNTRY=445&LANGUAGE=de&r=1&SID=967792150a00d890464504461a66ae529d97182e528c945af4544 caps: amazon, alibaba,.maybe.some thing like that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FYO8EDC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=flat%2Bkeycaps&qid=1675511770&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1 https://www.cherrymx.de/en/dev.html the low profile is maybe interesting....

@poti; if the shaft's center is in the end on the same position - so same frontpanel holes can be used.... and: when soldering the thing: first mount the pcbs with loose potis on the frontpanel then solder it (and document this in the "how too build"... @ - : use thermal destress traces (cant remember the kicad word) when using groundplanes, so you can desolder the the poti much easier.

control hardware yes, if it is well documentadet on the wiki (shematic, board screenshot) I too work with kicad since decades... and very sucessfull now with my actual projects - i was wondering but i planed it in kicad, and most off the boards where working 100% out off the Box (pick and place JLCPCB), ok i had a design fault on one, but that was solved with a wire-done. actual projects http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=triggermatrix5 http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=daw-ableton http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=openpad software: cant help, write my own Mios-based code, havent look into MidiboxNG - since it is a script, for me more easy to write it directly in C, (need to understand all, else i understand/learn nothing...) - so no help from this side had good expierences with jlcpcb... also with the Pick and Place service FrontPanels: maybe cheap CNC-Laser-Cutting from pcbway? https://www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/CNC-machining/CNC-Laser-Cutting-Services.html suggestions? Maybe use Eurorackformat, so it can be used outside of your box too? suggestion, where usefull (wo sinnvoll) use J89 Serial Chain directly onboard (like encoder with ledring boards) to reduce wireing - a simple button board dont needs that of course.... *** if you go the Serial Chain way, then buffer the Serial chain on each module to keep the digital Signal Quality intact (very necessery) *** buffer: search for SN74LVC1G17DBVR in this shematic: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=phatline:blm16x16-shematic.pdf maybe use pick and place ready smd technologoy like i did: that makes it smaller, and less to solder, less to debug, the plastic packages stays in china, more economical special when ordering more pcbs, by that of course a module should fit all the boxes (a exotic 1 man needs it module 10times fabricated is 9 too much...) i think i dont have to say, that you should choose "Basic" Parts, and not "extendet parts" on JLCPCB, - off course on most modules you have at least one or two extendeet parts... but for example a DINX4 or DOUTX4 can be made with basic parts only... but when you also want to pick and place all the pin headers - these are extendet parts, how ever ... you may look on my last modules a bit http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=tm5-dindoutgate http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=doutx2dinx1 if you use long cables to your Displays + u use more displays then one - on the modules, use a display driver (no more walking lines) http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=displaydriver-smd what else? if you make ground or other PCB-Planes, then setup kicad that it make 1-2mm space arround solderpoints - else the Soldering Man could make shorts, or electrocemical oxidations or solder flux-low-residance could make there some problems (after years), special when the Solderstop-Pain is scratched a bit... ... and so on... PS i hate this wooble feeling off this LeMec Buttons (the last board you posted) - these Buttons are not good (for my taste) I love to work with this ones: https://www.reichelt.de/at/de/eingabetaster-schaltspannung-24v-fuer-led-sw-dtl-2-sw-p7248.html?&trstct=pos_0&nbc=1 they are expensive, but they last decades (in use, and also if you order 300 off them and let them lye arround, after 15 years they still work) They have good CLICK, like a mechanical Keyboard. your leMec Buttons are like a mixture off Rubberdome and "i have to touch this buttons into one direction X=0 Y=0 else it want switch" or you could use: https://www.midiphy.com/en/shop-details/140/4/5pcs-matias-quiet-click-tactile-switch- they are cheap but big... (aka take away a lot of Frontpanel space) or maybe you use cherry switches or simulars.... they are all 1000% better then this leMecs... ( you notice i hate them)

PM sent!

this will take a while - look into the forum in 5 weeks or so. i need the PCB to make a new version off Triggermatrix (http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=triggermatrix4) the Frontpanel is not a generic MatrixController thing - it has 17 Displays, 8 Faders, some rotarys and buttons, the Software for this is not a normal Midicontroller-code (aka Midibox NG) - its my own creation a sequencer based on MIOS. - but if i not make a shematic mistake, the pcb should be usable like the orginal BLM16*16+X in other Midibox Projects.

adafruit rubber button 4x4

Very cool….well done.

Oh, wow, I totally missed that! Thank you!!! I wasted an entire day rummaging around and didn't manage to see that :) Just in case others run across this: You want 4SPI configuration, not IIC like I have in the pic. The number of screens you have must match the configuration you set in the bootloader, otherwise you get noise, and won't be able to write to all the lines/columns Also easy to miss, but for the 1306 RES connection, you need to wire it up like this (again, connections on your 1306 PCB): GND -> 10uf cap -> 1k resistor -> VCC. Once done, RES will be tied to where the cap and resistor meet (like this) It wasn't clear to me how to actually use the bootloader for the STMF4 board, but it's essentially: Plugin your board as you normally do Open MIOS Studio Click Browse and choose the mios32_bootloader app (download here) Click Start. If it won't complete, try unpluging/pluging the board and trying again Unplug/plugin the board In the MIDI IN and MIDI OUT sections whatever app you had prior to all of this might be listed, but it doesn't actually exist (and it shouldn't). That's why you now see the error "No response...". The new app, MIOS32, took its place and you need to refresh to see it. Click Application -> Rescan MIDI Devices Click Understood in the pop-up (this will make your old app disappear, and the MIOS32 app show up) Change MIDI IN and MIDI OUT to MIOS32 Enter these one by one into the input box: (send a command to MIOS32 application). Keep in mind lcd_num_x must match the number you have chained: set lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306 set lcd_num_x 1 set lcd_num_y 1 set lcd_width 128 set lcd_height 64 store Yah. Bootloader is done. Time to restore your app in MIOS Studio: Click Browse and choose whatever app you want, like midibox_ng Click Start. Like the bootloader, if it won't complete, try unpluging/pluging the board and trying again Unplug/plugin the board Now for some test display data. Lets set some values for your SSD1306 OLED's in MIOS Studio: Click on Tools -> MIOS32 File Browser Click Create File Create some name like LCD.NGC Click Update Click on the file you just created Click Edit Text and add the following test example: RESET_HW LCD "%C" LCD "@(1:1:1)A23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:2)B23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:3)C23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:4)D23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:5)E23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:6)F23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:7)G23456789012345678901234567890" LCD "@(1:1:8)H23456789012345678901234567890" Click Save You should now have 8 rows and 21 columns of text. If you need to flip it 180 degrees, you can redo the steps above and add set lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306_ROTATED before you store.

@Hawkeye Thank you for the thoughtful replies. It is easy to think of future wishes and add ons but at the same time forget about how it would effect everything else. I love the Seq4+, very little I would change! And the fact that I can get into the code and try things myself is pretty amazing. That alone is a "feature" that very few seq's can boast. @flyweightIf I was looking for more humanized recordings I'd use the longer tracks with higher divisions OR the humanizer feature! Also, you can specify your own shuffle parameters, you may find something that gives you YOUR feel.. if you could analyze how your beats groove, you may just be able to create that groove as a template and there ya go. May be worth digging into. At the same time, your experience and learning from building the Seq is not lost if you sell it. You lost time, yes. I'm sure if you put it on the market it will sell pretty quickly. ~Steve

Hi guys, I don't know the best for your project but I can explain what I did for the OLRE16. First is the MASK, it's black PMMA. Both sides are milled. I let some space between the leds on the pcb to keep some matters between the leds housing. Led size is 1.5x2mm On the other side(front side) there's some stripes which will fit inside the translucent PMMA, they will block the light between the leds, between the rings and between the rings and the oleds. . Note: the olre16 top pcb(ring) has no component on the top except the leds and the oleds. In blue are the back leds housing. In Red there are the holes. In Yellow, some stripes to block the light on the front, those stripes will fit inside the back of the translucent PMMA. The second part is the 'WINDOW', in translucent white PMMA, it's a LED special one, the same I used for the beat led window of the Seqv4+. The back part will fit inside the MASK, in other word the base of the WINDOW will receive the MASK's stripes, of course the WINDOW's pipes are in front of the MASK's holes. Then the Aluminum front panel comes to finish blocking the light and the pipes of the WINDOW will fit inside the panel, flush the surface. When they are coupled When coupled , assembled the thickness without the pipes height(front panel thickness) doesn't exceed 2.5mm Voilà! I don't know if it will help you and It's surely an "over-engineered" thing but this is the only solution I found, and it works. Best regards Bruno

Hey people, thanks to @TK.! It's working great. Anyway I had still some flickering on the LEDs. As I stated above I left away the caps ... and this was the reason. I know have added a 10uF on the input and on the output-connector of the LED-rings and the flickering is completely eliminated! Great!! So, one core can handle a total of 10 LED (10*36=360) rings....

Hey people, in this thread I'll post time after time updates about my latest keyboard build. Also I'll use this thread to publish eagle-PCB-layout-files and schematics. But please be patient. Uploading and documenting all that stuff is highly time consuming and it's right before christmas. So far everything works great, but the work under the hood was really time consuming because I used a lot of modules... some available from Tim, some I did on my own. I think modules are great if you need high flexibility... and all the modules are working perfectly. But if it comes down to save space and wiring, modules are a mess. Anyway... here we go: So I was tired using a laptop, a soundcard, tons of cables and all that stuff on stage. So I thought: What if I put the computer into the keyboard? It was quite successful. I used an Mini-ITX mainboard from Gigabyte, an i5-3570k (I'd go with a better i7 if I hadn't had that i5 before) with a low profile cooler. The mainboard is equipped with 16GB of RAM. Also I integrated two Samsung SSDs with 500GB each. The whole thing is powered through a Seasonic SS250U power supply. As soundcard I use a PCIe card from RME HDSPe AiO. Because this only has two audio in/outs, I also bought two expansion-board that gives me another four in and outs. The first two analog-outs are going through a self-made DI-box with high quality LEHLE-transformer... absolutely great stuff. This DI-box features also a 20dB PAD and a GND-lift. Let's hand over to the MIDIbox-side: I use two cores. One of them only takes care of the keyboard scanning. It was very important to me to not make a compromise on this. This core is connected via MIDI-out to the MIDI-In of the other core. Both cores are STM32F4 based. I used my own PCBs for that. @TK. Is it a problem if I publish those schematics and layouts for the core? I know that the official core is not published yet to cover the costs for PCB production and development. The PCB I developed only contains the connectors I need: it has J8/9, J19, J10A, J11 and J30 (as far as I remember... don't have it right in front of me at the moment). I tried to get a smaller footprint of the whole PCB. It also features a MicroSD-card slot instead of the SD-card-slot in the official PCB. My keyboard has nine analog faders build in... they are not motorized. I don't need that for now as they are much more expensive and also take more space. Also they are more difficult to wire up and connect. At first I did some tests with the AINSER8. But after a while I gave AINSER64 a try with the result, that it has less jitter than the AINSER8. The faders are a lot more quiet than with AINSER8. As I needed more than 16 analog inputs this was needed anyway. I power the AINSER64 through the core and the core receives it's power directly from the seasonic-power supply and NOT via USB. I needed some LEDs to visualize the status of my faders. A long long time ago I wanted to start another LED-fader-project but never finished it. So I had a lot of those LED-bars laying around... I took them and putted them into the board... works and feels great! On the next revision I'd try to use one big PCB for all 9 LED-bars to safe wiring and time for mounting. Now I used two 10pin IDC connectors (with only 8 pins of each are connected to the LED-bars = 16 LEDs). I did some mistakes when assembling the LED-PCBs... now sometimes some LEDs don't work... anyway... I can live with that for now. @TK. How about the WS2812 or APA102-LEDs? Do you think it's worth using them as LED-rings? I'm not sure what the status is and if they are supported in that way by MIDIbox. Would be a great alternative but they take a lot more space than 0603 SMD LEDs of course. The LED-bars are connected to small modules I did based on @novski designs. Those small modules are equipped with one or two DIN / DOUT modules. They work great and the advantage is, that I can stack them directly on the pinheader of the PCB... no cables needed! A bit hotglue and you are ready to go. I also have 8 encoders on each side of the keyboard. The right side is not connected yet... not sure if I do need so many encoders ;-) Of course they are also equipped with LED-rings. While the LED-bars where assembled by factory (I think I used SEEED) the encoder-rings came blank... so it took me a looooooong time adding 128 0805 SMD LEDs to all PCBs... at this time I had not have my reflow-oven... with this one that might be an easy task :-) The encoders (and the switches of the encoders) are connected to a 4xDIN board from novski. I'm not sure if this board really works well. Sometimes if I set debug on, MIOS lists tons of EVENT_BUTTONS. I'll need to investigate that. Maybe it has something to do with RC1 / RC2 lines. Underneath the faders I have a set of 2x8 buttons. I'm not really happy with them. I did the caps by myself and this was a really shitty work... next time I will use tact-switches that already come with caps f.e. TC011 like I did in the 1x8 button-row right in front of the player / underneath the display. For the buttons I designed a DIO-breakout-board. This breakout-board splits the matrix configuration of the 2x8 pinheader of the DIO-module to a more usable 2x5pin header-configuration with the row on pin 1 and the switch-lines on 3-10. With this way it's very easy to connect tons of buttons to a MIDIbox. . Same for the LEDs of the buttons. I used a DOUT-module with ULN2803 as LED driver (btw. I drive all LEDs with ULN2803 and do NOT use a resistor before or after the LEDs. As those LED-lines are scanned, a limiting resistor doesn't seem to be necessary). That's mainly it... the keyboard has two MIDI I/Os on the back as well as four pedal connectors for two switches and two expression pedals. The touchscreen in the middle is a 10" capacitive screen... that works awesome!! That's the story for now... like I said I'll try to keep this thread alive and add the PCB layouts and schematics later on. Thanks for reading!! Best, Chris

Hi everyone ! I experienced the same problem, and The Ancient One's solution works perfectly for me. I changed the 220R resistors to 68R for R21 and R22. Now the 9090 detects the signal without any issue. Thank you a lot Michael ! Théo