ilmenator

I wonder how the retainer legs work? What kind of buttons sit beneath the clear plastic tops that can be seen above?

I have a suggestion here. I think the main reason why there is not so much response to the competition is that the layout of the GM5x5x5 board is somewhat counterproductive for a 19" enclosure design. Two of the boards side by side are too wide to fit the 19" limit, and having them overlap in an upside-down way has the drawbacks that we already discussed. Maybe we should stall the competition until all the boards from the recent bulk order have been delivered, and then see if someone comes up with a more rack-friendly, maybe modular, PCB design that gives more options for a 19" case design?

Small Bear Electronics und Mammoth Electronics (beide USA) fuehren den Coolaudio V2164D zu recht guenstigen Konditionen. In Europa leider nicht wirklich zu bekommen, aber selbst ein Import ist wesentlich guenstiger als deine Apotheke!

Like... program it? :devil:

If you are able to understand German look at and the two subsequent ones. And yes, "multiplexing" is worth the effort, because it saves a lot of hardware and real estate on the PCB. And the software for this has already been implemented, so it comes for free. Why don't you simply order a PCB from SmashTV?

Success over here as well on an STM32 core board. Thanks!

The problem with these is that you don't know what you get until you test them in your setup. Unfortunately, chances are that they will not work properly, as evidenced in the blacklist over in the wiki. It seems you got lucky, but it's rather the exception to the rule I would say.

You want a GM5 - unfortunately, you have However, there might be some people that have one of the Ploytec chips left. You could ask in the fleamarket section of the forum.

Yes, the case fits the MB-6582 boards from Wilba/SmashTV. I don't know how the SammichSID is constructed, but as I said above, the CS board is mounted to the top panel, the base board to the bottom panel. That is enamel paint. Me too. The paint thinner leaves a little residue which can be wiped off with Isopropyl (Isopropanol) alcohol. But only if the thinner has not dried, so you need to be quick. It also does not work 100% on the matte finish. That actually sounds like a very good idea. Where did you get them from?

Yes. Not sure, but there is the possibility to build a case in the SammichSID style, with laser-cut panels from Ponoko or one of their sister companies. One such example is Yes.

Zunächst musst du den MIOS32 Bootloader installieren, das geht mithilfe des zweiten Teils des LPC-Boards, der anschließend abgetrennt wird. Dann kannst du mit Hilfe von MIOS Studio die eigentliche Software auf den Core aufspielen, nachdem das LPC-Board auf dem Core-Board sitzt. Und zwar via MIDI oder über USB-MIDI. Konfiguriert wird das Ganze dann auch wieder mittels MIOS Studio, da gibt es das MIDIO128 Tool. Das ist auch auf der MIOS Studio Seite beschrieben. Im Moment unterstützt MIDIO128 keine Encoder, sondern nur Taster, Fader/Potis und LEDs. Ob sich das ändern wird kann nur TK sagen. Auch die Fader/Potis (analogen Eingänge) lassen sich im aktuellen MIOS Studio (v2.3.1) noch nicht konfigurieren.

Chances are it will work :-).

Yes, go to the wiki and open the respective file. It's all there. :rolleyes:

That one is neither on the blacklist nor on the whitelist. Do you have the possibility to borrow one that is known to work from a friend or colleague?

Well at least in Trondheim they tend to enter the neighborhoods every now and then:

Very nice! And the winter hasn't even started properly...

Versuch mal E:\Users\Roman\Documents\trunk etc. durch /E/Users/Roman/Documents/trunk zu ersetzen.

Na, das kannst du ja auch im Browser. Übrigens brauchst (sollst) du deine Zeilen nicht einzeln umbrechen wenn du hier postest, auch das kann der Browser (und besser) :flowers: . (Zur Erklärung: Es gibt Leute die das Forum z.B. auf Mobilplattformen lesen, und da sind fixe Zeilenumbrüche eine Katastrophe.)

I checked the dimensions of the base board vs. the control board and the base board is actually deeper than the control board, so my statement above is not correct. However, I still don't think that stacking the boards using headers would be a good idea. My case is 50mm high, but the overall height could probably be reduced to around 40mm looking at how much space there is currently between base board and control board. This would also allow to place all elements on a single P2 size template. With the 50mm case height, not all panels fit into the P2 size limit. At Formulor.de, the top and bottom panel together with the front and back panel costs around 60 Euros plus around 16 for the P2 size panel itself in matte black 3mm acrylic. I think this is for an unoptimized file, I don't have the time to check this right now. Each honeycomb side on a single P1 size matte black 3mm panel is currently 6,93 Euros (including the panel itself). So, assuming that some more optimization can be done, and reducing the height of the case so that everything fits on a P2 size template, you should get away with a complete case for around 75-80 Euros maximum, including all the fancy engraving (the large "MB-6582" engraving in the front is only 0,42 Euros).

Hei nabo, gratulerer med dagen! Hurra for deg... :sorcerer:

The =mb&s[]=6582&s[]=wilba]Wiki has a number of PDF files in the "Final PCB Designs" section. My PDF reader allows me to take measurements inside a PDF, but I actually just imported the files into my design tool and deleted all but the mounting holes. I did this for both the control board and the base board, the former is mounted to the front panel, the latter to the base panel. It's actually simpler to trick their algorithm (well, I should not say 'trick' but 'optimize for', because what they do is calculate the actual time the laser needs for moving across the panel, including the moves between cuts, and that is what you reduce when optimizing the file - no harm done to them): once you have completed everything (in whatever order), you copy smaller regions or blocks of cuts to a new sheet and assemble the whole thing again. In my tool, the coordinates of a block copied are kept with the block itself, so when I insert that block into a new sheet it automatically sits in the right place. Optimizing for a complete case like this is then a matter of a couple of minutes or so. Probably time well spent.

From the top of my head I seem to remember that the base PCB is slightly less deep than the control board, so stacking is a no-no because then the MIDI connectors and audio jacks on the base board would not reach the back wall of the enclosure. And if I am not mistaken, then the mounting holes don't match. I went for regular (but slightly more sturdy) flat cables soldered on both ends directly to the boards. That was a lot of work I can tell you... I hope to find the time to check this out tonight.

Top off? Not going to happen, I am using flat top LEDs. Plus, all you are going to see is Wilba's standard boards, available in Tim's shop. Apart from a Traco power regulator there are no surprises on the inside. Yes, that's where my second link in one of my postings above is pointing to :D .

What MIDI interface are you using?