ilmenator

I did that for you.

Here is the

No, this is not possible.

The main difference is that switching type voltage regulators dissipate a lot less heat. Very often they come as a drop-in replacement, i.e. with the same footprint as a linear vreg, but without the metal part that attaches to a heat sink. Switching vregs are usually more expensive (factor 5-10).

Welcome FredricSweden to the MIDIbox forum! There is no readily available solution for what you want to do, not even on the MIDIbox NG platform. You will need to do a lot of programming, for which it will be necessary to understand the hardware concept. Honestly, it's a bad idea to start the project with purchasing some LCDs. I'd recommend you to read about the MIDIbox NG on ucapps.de and then estimate how far your own DIY skills will get you. If you feel it is manageable, then go ahead - if you feel it's over your head then honestly I would start with some smaller MIDIbox project, i.e. one that you just follow instructions for and for which you don't have to develop things yourself. Best, ilmenator

That's probably because we all tend to be hoarders and then realize at some point that our backlog is just so huge we'll never finish that build... Been there, done that :-). Best, ilmenator

You're actually ignoring that zone for two of your resistors...

Well he could have some fancy patterns etched on the other side!

Roel, are you sure you are running the same firmware the manual refers to? (I don't have one of these units myself, but differences between manual and actual firmware versions are a common source of confusion).

O, you should probably indicate where you are located.

I don't think there are spares, I believe I got the last one from this order for my second SEQv4. But, the Gerber files are in the Wiki, so you could always start a new bulk order.

eptheca, thanks for sharing!

Good to hear that you managed to fix the problem! I was quite convinced the problem was due to a bad solder joint on one of the shift registers, but it certainly sounds like it was the LED matrix now. Where did you source the faulty LED matrix - just so we know what to avoid?

Prima Sache! Zum Layout des Sequenzers frage ich mich allerdings, ob das mit den drei Reihen zu 6, 6 und dann nur 4 Einträgen so intuitiv ist, die Übersicht über die Steps zu behalten. Könntest du nicht einen 4x4 Block von Steps auf der linken Seite anordnen, und die virtuellen Encoder in einer Vertikalen rechts davon (oder andersherum)?

The E-Switch caps looke like those used on the Mutable Instruments Shruthi - they are different from the ones used by Wilba in his SEQv4 design. Maybe you should try to sell them over at the MI Forum!

Thumbs up for OSHpark, high quality and cheap for small boards!

I think you need to do some more reading to fully understand the power of MIDIbox. I'd recommend you to have a look at ucapps.de and check out the different hardware modules to get an idea. This will also answer your doubts about the number of MIDI ports available on a single core!

No, I mean that a MIDIbox could act as the "translator" without actually having its own knobs.

Well, if you rolled your own "translator" then you could obviously make it as "multi"/"hybrid"/whatever as you want it to be!

The Mackie C4 is a great piece of gear, very sturdy and the 2x56 character displays it uses are very nice with the 8 encoders underneath. You could always build a "translator" that simply translates/modifies what the C4 emits and receives, to something that your gear understands. Maybe based on the MIDIbox NG. This way you also get rid of the SysEx "problem" (which is not a shortcoming but actually a very elegant way of being able to transmit text messages onto the C4's display...). The C4 protocol is linked to in

Hi Rowan, I cannot wrap my head around this right now, so I can't tell you which joint exactly is broken, but it certainly sounds like one leg of a shift register is not making contact with the PCB. The welcome text doesn't use the lowest row of LEDs, so I guess that's why the problem doesn't show when you switch on the unit. If you have proper desoldering equipment I would go ahead and try to fix the problem - without a desoldering gun I'd probably just leave it as it is now. Best, ilmenator

I was trying to find out how you power your setup - USB or power supply, and if so with what ratings?

How do you feed power to your setup?

This should be perfectly ok. IIRC then the 8580s produce less heat than the old 6581 types. You could always drill some additional holes into the bottom (front area) to allow for convection cooling, if your case doesn't have any already.

TK has already mentioned it in I have created a PCB for the MIDIbox Standard Control Surface (SCS) that does not require any shift registers and connects directly to J10A of the core board. The SCS module integrates nicely into the MIOS framework, check out tutorial #027 if you want to learn how to use this in your own project. Or just use it for a simple user interface in your MIDIBox CV V2. I have tried to accommodate footprints for a number of different switches: I succeeded with the Marquardt 6425 series, the ITT Schadow D6 series available at Reichelt, and the E-Switch 612-TL1100 series. That makes the board a pretty universally usable PCB, I believe. Also, it will align perfectly with a 20x2 character LCD, which should sit just above this PCB in the front panel. The bare PCB is about 98x49mm in size: Here are the different switches in place: A full documentation can be found in the Wiki. PM me if you need one of these boards for your project. Best, ilmenator