Leaderboard

Necro bump, here are some more hi-res pictures, as the ones over at MI forum are just thumbnails.

Here is mine :) Only heard about this project last week and now I'm the owner of this beautiful beast. Thanks Peter and Andy for all the help (me spamming you) in the last few days :)

Got mine going -- many, many thanks to Michael Menze for building it.

I read a lot of guides. Successfully compiled ASM code. The OLED display works well with an 8bit driver. If anyone needs the firmware, here is: setup_sammich_sid_8bit.hex

Hello dear midiboxers, I just wanted to share the new EP that I just released, called "La couleur préférée du carrossier": https://kevingotkovsky.bandcamp.com Four library-digital-bossanova-world tracks entirely sequenced with the one and only SEQ V4+ ;) If you like 70's and 80's type sounds, you might enjoy this! Cheers, please don't hesitate to give me any feedback, KG

This is it! I finished my one. What a great device! Needs some patience, but very satisfying to see, how it grows. Many thanks to all who made this possible! Great job! regards, roland

Hi all, I just joined to post the pic of my finished unit. Some comments from my side if someone starts building one and reads this before ;) - Pay good attention to the video instructions about the parts and part numbers. Always double-check the right manufacturer part number in the BOM, as some are very similar, but have totally different functionality. - If you accidently mix up the resistor network ICs and realise it too late, you can also use a chep "non-industrial" heat-gun to unsolder them, one which is not for soldering only, but e.g. for heating up and forming plastic stuff. (i use mine mainly to ignite my charcoal for BBQ ;). I checked my user manual to see what temperature setting on the heatgun (1-9 or something) is approximately which temperature, i set it to about 320-350°C. Worked fine for me, jus make sure not to force the IC off to early, wait until the solder is liquid again. The resistor network itself is not very head sensitive, be sure to disassemble or cover everything else around it that might get damaged (i removed the pushbotton caps again). - Do not forget to set the 3V jumper for the OLEDs in the beginning, you have to disassemble a lot if you are almost finished ;) Test your OLEDs as early as possible. - I mixed up some of the different pinheaders of the mouser BOM, ended up having not the long ones left to connect the two PCBs. Then i used some different ones i had left (i think from Reichelt) and they worked even better as i did not have to push them down again as Peter did in his video. - A little bit longer cable from the JA board (on the left-hand version only?) to the next board would have been helpful, the fitting and assembly was very tight, several times the connector went out of the socket. Ok, now i have to connect all my stuff to get going again. This was a lot of fun, and regarding the complexity of the project the drawbacks were minimal and easy to fix. Thank you all for this awesome work! Have a good time, Enginerd

Here is another Midibox in the wild. Lacking both time and skills to really build one myself, i had one of the trusted builder to handle that part for me. This one was built by @Menzman (Michael Menze) here on the forum. Very nice chap and highly recommended if anyone else wanna take this route to get your hands on this wonderful piece of hardware. You can find him via the trusted builders list @ midiphy) edit: if a moderator can move this to the correct thread in the forum (v4+) it would be great, i just saw i accidently put it in the wrong one :) sorry! @Hawkeye ?

Hi All, Here you can see all the necessary boards to build the HAARP. Best regards Bruno

i pulled them by hand. is there a special tool? the picture does not match the actual impression. one can clearly distinguish which steps are selected.

Hello some update were made on the dokuwiki ;) dipCoreF4 A reduced Core for your MIDIbox App, an STM32F405RG in a DIP40 format. Features MIOS32 uses same processor family and drivers(no deep change). Same internal hardware as Disco or wCore (speed, memory, peripherals, etc…) . Board pinout and package compatible with a MIOS8 PIC USB connector onboard. 2 OTG are available, second(new) USB is Host only. 5V power input and led. 3.3V regulator and led on board. 74HCT541 on board for the 5V output ports. User and Reset buttons. 2 user leds. 12 extra pins for USB, buttons and leds. Your favorite Core is now a current component easy to integrate. All commons MIOS32 ports are available except: General purpose J10x ports were removed. LCD port was reduced to a serial one, no more pins J15.D0-D7 , no back-light power supply. 2 UART only(2 MIDI In/2Out). 2 AIN channels only(e.g. pedal inputs). SPI slave only supported by J19(SPI3). Check the dipBoardF4 for more details Download dipCoreF4 eagle lib for easy integration in your design. dipcoref4_v2a.zip Pinout The dipCoreF4 and the legacy MIOS32 ports. Check dipBoardF4 for more details about the connectors. BOM Due to the small SMD, which is sometime a difficulty to solder, the board is already assembled by manufacturer, except the connectors. The mini-USB is optional. Qty Value Package Parts Mouser Reichelt Conrad LCSC Notes Headers 3 1*20 male 437-3501012000006101 No Adapted to sockets Mill-Max 0552-1-15-01-11-27-10-0 or 0553-1-15-15-11-27-10-0 Connnector 1 mini-USB THT USB 571-1734510-1 no! for other ref take care about restricted area!

Another successful build. Thanks to all involved for such a great design and realization of this sequencer. I followed the build videos and that kept me on track. The only problem I had was of my own doing, mixing up the resistor networks then getting erratic output on the first seq_l test. Hot air and swapping the resistor networks around fixed this. Thanks to @Antichambre for those great looking keycaps too. Looking forward to more great things from the Midibox team. Edit: I did have the odd inversion of colors on the beat LED, I had red on measure green on beat, a change of values in the config file HWCFG fixed that.

Hey man. It's actually an FR4-Standard PCB. Non aluminium. But seems pretty robust anyway.

Hello friends. I am Rolf and I would like to share my latest DIY project "Jeannie" with you. It is an 8 voices polyphonic synthesizer based on a Teensy 4.1 board. I started doing it last summer. Now I have built an effects circuit for the synthesizer. "Jeannie" DIY Synthesizer Effect circuit Video The Fx menu in the synth is almost ready. The new one is still missing Display of the parameter values after a program change. There are more videos on my youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXQSpP0qn5MXSkyDo6PZ4Cw Greetings from germany. Rolf

I built my MB-6582 last year, so relatively recently... In the process I pieced together a few handy references that helped me with my build... Good luck with yours... Planning the cost of a build, based on various component options: PCB Sets are still available here: https://modularaddict.com/shop-by-brand/midibox-ucapps-de Nice pre-made Aluminum panel sets available here: http://thebeast.co.uk/?product_cat=midibox As a bargain basement alternative to aluminum, you could have panels fabricated as if they were PCBs, which saves a ton: If real SIDs are too difficult to find and/or too expensive, take a look at the best clone options: How to program your Microcontrollers: ...Or just buy some pre-programmed chips: Where to get the "Just Right" power switch: Which SID filter capacitors to use: A useful voltage testing guide: There are many power supply options available, but this one is by far the easiest: THE definitive guide for making the control surface: A nice little PCB that simplifies Char LCD Wiring: A useful way to join the boards together: Optional Encoder Backlighting:

Unit has been finished this morning, and cheers from Berlin! Would love to get a serial, even though i missed #42

A quick video demo, made by a friend. I just gave it to him like that, without much explanation. The user manual is still not ready (blame me) but he managed to catch the thing even though he only used a few of the features.

For anyone that's been considering the ARMSID or ARM2SID, but didn't want the headache of having to maintain a working C64 to configure them, the guys at Retrocomp have come up with a novel solution for you... It's basically a DIY Arduino shield that enables you manage the whole configuration process through a simple terminal Source code available here: https://github.com/nobomi/Arduino-ARMSID-configurator Partial kits available here: https://retrocomp.cz/produkt?id=67 I don't know about the rest of you, but for me, the SID Clone wars are over and the clear winner is ARMSID. 1. The sound is very close to the real deal, in either 6581 and 8580 mode. IMHO, it's even better than the SwinSID Ultimate (listen to examples above in this thread) 2. The design is by far the cleanest and sleekest, all the way through to packaging, delivery, quality documentation, vendor support, etc. 3. The size and form-factor are very close to a real SID, so it will fit anywhere a SID does, unlike some of the clunkier clones 4. It's jumper-less and auto-detects the correct SID emulation mode, depending on the input voltage It receives. The mode can be overridden however, using the aforementioned config editor (imagine an 8580 in a Breadbin or a 6581 in a C64c / G). 5. The price for an ARMSID is absolutely reasonable and you can save a few $$ if you need dual SID pairs, by going with the ARM2SID 6. It provides support for analog paddles if you happen to have a real C64 And NO, I am in no way affiliated with Retrocomp or the ARMSID, but I just think these guys have done a terrific job on this... Kudos...

The 1st draft in 3D The board is roughly the size of a laboratory card in euro format (160 x 100). The Fx module is simply plugged onto the back. The current prototype Greetings from germany. Rolf

It’s become increasingly challenging to find suppliers that stock the original C64 sized power switch for MB-6582 and sammichSID. My standby had been the Retroleum shop: https://www.retroleum.co.uk/c64-misc-components-fuse-etc But, they're not shipping at this time, due to Covid-19 impact I managed to find two suppliers on eBay that seems to have good on-hand supply: Suppler based in UK https://www.ebay.com/itm/401182009175 Supplier based in the US https://www.ebay.com/itm/402027981537 Cheers!

Thank you for making this clear, Martin. The question is still unanswered if itˋs possible to use Vice via Asid with a Midibox SID to configure DSP Clone Settings instead of a real C64.

Hello, it is quite different. If you use ARM2SID with the second SID2 socket, connect it with provided 6 pin wire, and configure it to SOCKET configuration (it is by default) it behaves in 2 SID sockets as 2 SIDs. No doubling the output, ARM2SID has enough processing power so it can process 3 SIDs inside, so in 2 SOCKET configuration it processes both SIDs (the chip select and R/W is brought to the main chip by the wire) and sends the second SID audio back to the SID2 socket by another wire. Thus ARM2SID in socket configuration with SID2 socket and the 6pin wire behaves exactly as 2 ARMSIDs. You can set in configuration one as 8580 and the other one as 6581 or adjust filters and digifix independently. The option on picture that dwestbury published above with directly connected wires is for implementing ARM2SID to C64 or similar and when you provide all the addressing by wires, it does not need any stereo adapter and it supports stereo or 3SID or FM emulation, but it needs the additional wires for addressing. With the 2 SOCKET configuration, it can work only as a stereo, not dual mono as jjonas says. The second SID2 socket provides input and output for the 2nd SID emulation, even it is an empty socket conversion placeholder. Best regards Martin Lukasek ARMSID technical suppot

Here's a tip for anyone who wants an easy way of having raised lettering on their 3D prints with a different colour to the case itself. Print the case with lettering with the same colour filament you want the raised lettering to have. Paint or (spray paint is probably best) the entire case in the colour you want the case to be. Then simply sand the lettering with sand paper and the original filament colour will come through. I saw this method posted in a facebook Flight Sim group where a user 3D printed his own Boeing 737 panels:

Hi! It's not the subject here, but I can explain a few quickly. Phatline is right, the M16 is a 16x16 midi I/O interface, the plan is to build a expandable router using the MCAN bus to interconnect multiple couple of Core32+M16. Nx(16x16) I/O, 16x16, 32x32, 48x48 etc... The project is called "BANDMASTER", The two prototypes I've made are working... I will come back on this project once the HAARP is finished.

Congratulations on your hard work everyone involved! Nice to see a MIDIbox device finally get the recognition it deserves! I just wanted to update the thread and say that I had the intermittent booting issue since I built my LoopA and since installing those 2 resistors Andy suggested, it has been flawless! Such a fun little device to get ideas down quickly while remaining inspired and in the moment! One of the most important things for my workflow!

Hi all, I think it has been requested before but I'm not sure... I would really like to divide the clock outputs more. Now the clock can get really fast, 384 ppq, and that's great! but the lowest clock is 1 ppq. And that's still quite fast. I would like to use a clock to reset something every 64th step. But for that I have to divide the clock output through an external clock divider. It would be great to get it from the sequencer itself. Now I use a dedicated track for that but I still have 6 unused clock outputs....I hope it's possible. Cheers!

Has anyone thought to implement a drum trigger grid indication on the TPD? It is a natural fit with its 8 x 16 LED display . I know you can hold the instrument mode button down and see all the different tracks triggering but to have a visual grid might be really nice. My first drum machine was TR707 and the grid view lcd was nice!!! ~steve

I finally got a chance to build and integrate these awesome encoder backlighting PCBs. With such a clever and functional design from @d0pefish, I had no excuses! The one impediment for me was having to learn some basic SMD soldering, but @Hawkeye's videos on the subject made it much easier ;-) I'm currently powering the lights with a 9v source, but I think this makes them a bit too bright and they illuminate the whole bottom half of the control surface.

Hi All! Here the fabulous work from @AdrianH. The 2 casing prototypes he sent to me for checking. In black and rainbow. Some more pictures in the album Best regards Bruno

Finished mine today. What an amazing project. I'm really impressed about the quality of this kit. I've been building and soldering stuff for many years (MOTM, Oakley and more) but the quality and attention to detail is unmatched. The tolerances alone are amazing (how the buttons fit into the case openings, the displays, the screw positions on the boards and case... the solid back plates etc. It's been mentioned somewhere on this forum already: beveled tips for your soldering iron do wonders! I admit I was terrified about SMT soldering. Turns out I really, really like it; in fact, I like it more than soldering through hole - how weird. Thank you so very much for doing this guys! Greetings from California

Hi there, Sorry for bumping an old thread, but just to let anyone know who's researching this that I believe I've fixed the issue when using the Raystar OLED in 4-bit mode. I was looking over the CLCD init sequence and something didn't seem right, so I made some changes and offered it as a pull request for to TK to review when he gets some free time: https://github.com/midibox/mios8/pull/2 With these changes, you can keep the PIC ID set to the usual (no need for custom LCD driver) and you don't need to solder the bridges on the MB6582 to enable 8-bit mode. You will also see the "READY." prompt after loading MIOS. If you want to test this, I've attached a build of the latest version MIOS8 with these changes. This is what I'm using in my MB6582 with a Raystar REC002004AYPP5N00000. I don't have any "normal"/old-style LCDs to test with this code, so I'd also appreciate anyone who has one to test this version of MIOS8 and confirm whether it works or not, as I don't want to break support for working screens of course Thanks! mios_p18f4685.hex

Another Loopa appears! Wanted to drop by and thank everyone involved with this project! Was a really enjoyable build, especially thanks to Hawkeye's great video. Everything seems to be working fine and the QA team is already checking the results.

Exciting moment...replaced the SwinSID with two original SID's... and it worked! nothing "fake" anymore...great little synth !

My best idea is to use the MUTE button to alternate between TRACKS MUTE and LAYERS MUTE pages. When you click MUTE for first time(when previous page is something else than a MUTE page) you will enter in TRACKs MUTE page: OLEDs and 1st row show the TRACKs MUTE, 2nd row shows the TRACK SELection directly, instead of the redundant TRACKs MUTE, TRACK Sel and MUTE leds lit to indicates MUTE for TRACKs Clicking a second time the MUTE button switches to the LAYERs MUTE page: OLEDs and 1st row show the LAYERs MUTE, Instruments for a drum track, parameters for all others, 2nd row still shows the TRACK SELection, or the TRACKs MUTE. in live it's interesting to have the mutes for the 16 tracks and 16 percussions at the same time, this can be an option to choose. MUTE led still lit, but now INSTruments or PARAMeters led lit depending on the Selected Track type(Drum or other), it indicates we are in the LAYERs MUTE and which type of layer it is. Option34/34: For Layers Mute Page Direct tracks butt are: Track Selection for a non drum track, layer button lit: for a drum track, instrument button lit: Option34/34: For Layers Mute Page Direct tracks butt are: Track Mute Now second row indicates the Track mute instead of the Track Selection: Clicking another time on MUTE button switches back to TRACKs MUTE page etc... Clicking other button than MUTE leave the MUTE pages. And EXIT button can be used to come back to previous page if this last was memorized on first MUTE click. Best regards Bruno

Have completed this build. What a great project - the new case and overall integration is truly excellent! Major props to all the folks here who put this system together, Hawkeye, latigid on, thanks to Antichambre for the custom keycaps - and of course TK for creating the MB world.

Mouser 517-929834-07-36-RK is one of the longest "standard" headers but only single row. Check the datasheet on the Mouser page and you will find other parts. None of the longer dual-row header 929710 are stocked apparently. But you could use a pair of single-row strips, which is what we do for the LoopA.

Just been updating my website a bit with some words and pictures about various making projects... maybe this will be inspiration? I only really started soldering things in late 2016, so totally possible to do this thing :) (you can teach an old dog new tricks it turns out) http://www.robotriddims.com/makingmusing/2020/5/20/mb6582-midibox-sid-synth

Endlich! https://www.amazona.de/test-midiphy-midibox-seq-v4-diy-sequencer/

Serial number installed

And I also finished my build

Build done! I tried a blue/yellow/white color scheme, by combining the red+green with one 47R resistor and the blue with 1k... it has become more a blue/orange scheme. However, I am impressed by the perfection of this kit, with even spare parts and the case fits 100%, no need to drill additional holes.

Build done ! My first diy project ever :D Learned a lot in the making it was great. Thanks to Hawkeye videos tutorial, it made the build process a good journey to the valley of endless sequences.

To me, the JB Weld bit is way tougher than the electronics ;-) Keeping fingers crossed that I don't make an absolute mess of it... -Darrell

setup_mb6582.hex you must upload via Midi and MIOS Studio You also don't need Mblab, you just need the Programmer for the Bootloader https://youtu.be/3EkNUa2nSDE Links in the description. Bootloader http://ucapps.de/mios_studio.html http://ucapps.de/mios_download.html

Just got it cut on my CNC and it looks like I got everything right. Still need to work on the I/O panel. I will get the DXF up as soon as I get it cleaned up.

:D yesss, can't wait. after a while of usage i find it a little bright too.

I have confirmed that the matrix labeling is correct with another user. I might change a few things on the rear panel, not sure how much space I have to work in my ideas may design a separate break out box. Would like to have more I/O for the filter Input and a active mixer for all the channels. Maybe get buffers for the in and out? The feedback hack is cool so would like to keep it. Here is the final panel that I am going to go with. I will post up the DXF and a gurber version when I make sure it all fits.

a lot of pictures of the build, some explaination: http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=scale-explorer#teaser some coding and real world jamsession has to be done the next months, so i dont uploadet a code yet... What it does shortly: Indicate via LEDs over the Keys, what Notes fit to the actual set Scale. I preprogrammed 240 scales, when i change the root note (on the fly) this are 2400 or more scales... programming scales, and songs is easy - just play a melody! or connect your sequencer in feed Scale-Explorer with your song! (root +2 +2 + 3+ 3+ is a scale for example... but it dont matter in which order you press it, my code detect its order) so you can indicate what scales, or notes you use in your song, or indicate what your Jaming Partner is playing on is Gitarsynth or Keyboard or Sequencer (in the case you dont hear notes as "notes" like me!) the songmode, is a "always recording" one, that means, you hit record after you played what you wanted to record... its more easy to not "try and try and try to make a perfect record" just jam, and when you think - whoo hoo that was awsome! press Record, set the loop points (which in length are always multiples of the set tact 4/4 leading into 4 8 16 32... 3/4 to 3 6 12 24...) and maybe press "purge" to clean not used notes and to shift it to Step 1... 8 Songs per scale are possible 128 scales are saved on one preset which can be loadet from sd-card, each scale can hold 8 songs/song parts, which is saved as 1 song on the SD-Card, that song is automaticly loaded by changing a scale.... So the SD-Card is pretty full with songfiles... There is a Trigger Amplifier and Schmitt trigger built in (Konga Trigger), which retrigger the pressed Keys, or Trigger Songsteps and go to the next song step while you can hold a step with Footswitch or Reset the Song to Jump to Step 1... Last Jamsession, i was sitting on this Wood-SnareDrum Instrument, clamped the trigger mic on the bassreflex opening, recordet a short snipped of the keyboard a other person played, and began to play the base, snare and "Wood" part of this 8 man Jamsession, in short time i was leading the thing, because Snare Wood Bass and its melody was fitting in this environment... i loved it! i am not a good drummer, or keyboard, but this for me was the holy grail, Electronic Music with real Humans instead of clock driven sequencers... i hope i can get you a video next month! Prepgrammed scales are: (thy have also names, but that would a bit to much for this post ;) // SCALES s8 new_scale[Nr_off_Files][128][13] = { { //File 0 {1,1,1,3,1,2,1,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,2,2,2,2,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,4,2,2,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,7,2,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,2,1,2,1,2,0,0,0,0,0,0},{4,4,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,2,4,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,3,2,1,2,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},//0 {1,2,1,2,1,2,1,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,1,2,1,2,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,2,1,1,1,2,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,2,1,2,3,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,2,1,3,1,2,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,3,2,2,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,3,2,3,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,2,1,2,2,1,0,0,0,0,0,0},//1 {1,1,3,2,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,2,2,1,2,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{2,2,3,2,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,2,1,2,1,1,0,0,0,0,0},{1,2,3,2,2,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,2,2,1,2,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,3,3,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,0,0,0,0},//2 {1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,2,0,0,0,0},{3,3,3,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{3,9,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{4,8,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{2,2,2,3,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,2,2,1,3,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,2,1,3,2,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,0,0,0,0,0},//3 {1,1,1,1,1,1,1,2,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,1,1,1,3,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,1,1,2,1,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,1,1,3,1,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,1,2,1,1,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,1,3,1,1,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,2,1,1,1,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,1,1,2,2,0,0,0,0,0},//4 {1,1,1,1,2,1,1,2,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,2,1,2,1,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,1,2,2,1,1,0,0,0,0,0},{1,2,2,2,2,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{2,2,3,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,2,2,2,3,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,1,3,1,3,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{2,3,2,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},//5 {1,2,2,2,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,3,1,3,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,2,1,3,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,3,1,3,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,2,2,2,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,3,1,2,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,1,3,1,2,2,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},{1,2,1,2,2,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0},//6 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